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Dead Lift Pump- Or So I thought

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Old Dec 1, 2013 | 02:17 PM
  #1  
tsan4d's Avatar
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From: Huntsville, Alabama
Dead Lift Pump- Or So I thought

Hi guys. This weekend truck started running rough at highway speeds. Thought I had bad fuel. Changed filter and got worse then wouldn't start at all. So I thought I had a dead lift pump, got P1693 code, no scanner on hand so we checked pressure at filter and it looks like no pressure, AND no noise from the tank pump. Pulled the bed and found no power to any wires at the connector? We switched key on and off still no power at any wires. Any thoughts? I am looking for a schematic of this truck to verify wire color codes at connector. Is this a possible ECU failure not giving power to lift pump? Truck is at my dad's now and he will get a scanner hopefully this week to check for further codes.

Also, when I pulled the bed, I have to line fittings on the tank fitting that had no lines to them. First time I have been this far into the system so I have no clue what he open lines are. I attached a photo in hopes of getting info from you guys on what these missing lines are and what goes to them.
Thanks in advance for assistance.
Attached Thumbnails Dead Lift Pump- Or So I thought-district-2-20131201-001301.jpg  
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Old Dec 1, 2013 | 03:23 PM
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From: Streator Illinois
That doesn't look like it has been converted to an in tank pump, are you sure they moved it to the tank? Look at the side of the engine, just below and behind the fuel filter for the lift pump. If it has been converted, there will be a block to bypass the pump, and a wire harness plugged into the original wiring running back to the tank.

I could be wrong here, but I remember more wires out of the sender than that for a conversion.

The additional ports are rollover valve ( bigger **** with horizontal barb ) and an axillary fuel port ( smaller one partially covered by a rubber plug ) plug is supposed to cap it off.
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Old Dec 1, 2013 | 04:02 PM
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Mine had a red wire tapped off of the oem wiring harness that was located in the drivers side front wheel well towards the cab.. I too also thought the LP had died, ended up just being corrosion on that power wire... I ended up finding a used oem fuel module from a friends part truck that hadn't been converted.. I ripped that intake pump out and and now running a Raptor FRRP..

You may want to look into the draw straw option if you want a reliable pump setup..
Seems I also remember there being a seperate relay for the intank pump also..

Hope this helps!
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Old Dec 2, 2013 | 06:16 PM
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From: Huntsville, Alabama
Thanks for info. I may be wrong then and it may not have in- tank pump. My brother and dad are working on it this week at my dad's house. Hopefully they will find out the other error codes. I knew at least one of those open lines needed to be capped off, but wasn't sure. Thanks for that also. Not sure which pump to go with for replacement. I didn't really want to modify much back there. Are there any in-tank pupmps that are reliable, or are the more reliable ones mounted outside and require some mods? Can you point me to a thread that provides some guidance on either of these options? I have been looking and there is so much info on these forums that it takes forever just looking through posts on pumps and pump mods.

Thanks,
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Old Dec 3, 2013 | 08:08 AM
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Easy enough to check, here is a picture, index # 1 is your lift pump.

http://www.wvodesigns.com/wiki/1998-..._%28VP44_IP%29

I am odd man out, I like to keep it stock unless you are going to be building some serious HP that the stock pump won't support. You can buy brand new LPs for under 150 bucks, and I can change one on the side of the road in 20 min. or less, try that with an in tank pump.

http://www.thedieselstore.com/templa...4#.Up3lryeynf0
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Old Dec 3, 2013 | 12:36 PM
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From: On the Farm, Manitoba
Originally Posted by patdaly
Easy enough to check, here is a picture, index # 1 is your lift pump.

http://www.wvodesigns.com/wiki/1998-..._%28VP44_IP%29

I am odd man out, I like to keep it stock unless you are going to be building some serious HP that the stock pump won't support. You can buy brand new LPs for under 150 bucks, and I can change one on the side of the road in 20 min. or less, try that with an in tank pump.

http://www.thedieselstore.com/templa...4#.Up3lryeynf0
I'm with Pat on this one, being able to easily replace it down the road or by the side of the road to me is very important.
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Old Dec 3, 2013 | 02:03 PM
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I like your thinking, easy is better, even if they are not as reliable. Thanks for the help fellas. I will follow up once I gitter fixed up.
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Old Dec 3, 2013 | 02:43 PM
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From: On the Farm, Manitoba
I might add that anyone with a VP44 should have and needs a fuel pressure gauge.
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Old Dec 3, 2013 | 02:58 PM
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From: Alberta, Canada
Originally Posted by patdaly
Easy enough to check, here is a picture, index # 1 is your lift pump.

http://www.wvodesigns.com/wiki/1998-..._%28VP44_IP%29

I am odd man out, I like to keep it stock unless you are going to be building some serious HP that the stock pump won't support. You can buy brand new LPs for under 150 bucks, and I can change one on the side of the road in 20 min. or less, try that with an in tank pump.

http://www.thedieselstore.com/templa...4#.Up3lryeynf0
As always, only slightly higher in Canada! The best deal that I found in Red Deer, Alberta was $218.00 at CDI. I like the simple stuff, I get 12 to 14 PSI out of the current OEM lift pump except when towing and then I get 10. I have a brand new spare unit under the back seat for those emergent road side R&R's. I think that the Edge J/A does and adequate job of informing me about the lift pump fuel pressure.

Cheers!

Mike
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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 10:46 AM
  #10  
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From: Huntsville, Alabama
So I currently do not have a fuel pressure gauge. Is there one that is reliable with mount available as a kit? Not up to speed on these either. I want to keep the truck so anything to help with systems monitoring would be great.

Thanks,
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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 01:25 PM
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From: On the Farm, Manitoba
If you plan on keeping the truck a pillar mount gauge pod and 3 gauges is the way to go, fuel pressure, EGT (exhaust gas temp), and boost pressure. Geno's Garage sells a few kits at different prices. Boost gauge is good for troubleshooting engine problems and the EGT will hopefully stop you from having engine problems.
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