Is there a certain mileage range that the Master/Slave cylinder seems to fail at? Is there usually any warning signs or does it just happen all at once?

 

I would imagine it has more to do with how often you shift. I spent a lot of time stuck in traffic thus using my clutch much more. OTR would be relatively low i would think.

 

I have blead a lot of them. put the master in with the line on it and fill the tank let it flow down the line and run out a little. Take the retainer straps loose from the slave rod and let it move out, turn it with the hole to the top and fill it with fluid and tap it just a little to get the air out as you go. Conect it to the line under the truck and slowly push in the rod and let it out slowly a few times. This will force to air out the top (it wants to go up anyway) put the slave in the bell and then push the clutch some times you may have to pump it one or two times but the last few times I did it it worked the first time. For any one who thinks they have air in the line take the slave out of the bell ( 2 bolts) and push the rod in and let it slide back out a few times and reinstall 5min max and it will help. I have replaced a slave on the side of the road in less than 10min ( closer to 5min)and it worked the first time. I have done this way to many times

 

Had the same issue with 02 2500 6cyl 6spd diesel. A buddy changed out the clutch master cyl but did the quick fix bleed (now recommend remove all and bleed outside the truck) and didnt feel right. Later the throw out bearing went out so replaced with new clutch kit. The mechanic didnt know how to bleed the clutch/slave system so we had to. I evidently put the slave cyl in wrong and it blew apart. Its back together but i feel some air may now be seeping in. Hard to down shift (have to dbl clutch like the old deuce and a half trks (getting rpm's up just right)). Ordering the slave cyl that i think will fix that but will a bad slave also cause it to move when started with the clutch pedal depressed/foot off the break? Also, before you come to a complete stop, there is a very noticable vibration under my feet (transmission)?

 

I was gonna tell ya I just upgraded mine and pulled my old hydrolics out if you want i will can sell ya cheap. I only have 90k miles on my 99 with the nv4500

my truck shifted great just upgrading clutch and hydro's because of my adr

 

I got mine from Southbend and I was impressed. I think I talked to Peter and he said it was pretty much the same, I was comparison shopping cause I could get a stocker through a friend at the dealer for $180 and southbends was gonna cost me more.

In my opinion, you'd be a fool not to buy a southbend. The slave cylinder was bigger than the stocker and I think the master cylinder too! It just looked beefier than the stocker. I think it cost me around $250 shipped but laying them side by side I could see a difference between the stock and Southbends, good job to those guys!

 

I had a buddy buy the kit from dodge, no problems but it was pricey.

 

i had a buddy buy one from dodge and he was able to install it and bleed it just fine and it was about $250 i think. another buddy of mine has the one from southbend which is a little bigger and was about $250 as well, and i purchased mine from valair and the master and slave cylinder are much bigger than the stock one, it is also adjustable behind the pedal and the hydraulic line fits much better than the stock and southbend lines.

 

you should not have to bleed any of them because they are completly sealed unless you open the cap. If you want a new on go with southbend's upgraded it is all braded line plus it has swivel concections which makes the install supper easy.

 

i just got the slave and master from autozone...just used my old line and bled it out just fine.

I just filled the reservoir, and pushed the slave rod a few times slowly until there was no more air. They were cheap and worked out fine.

 

Mine happened just this week and thank the Lord my Brother is a Master Mechanic for Catapiller and he trained in Detroit on Cummins.

Tried to put my truck in gear with a load of horses and nadda, would not go into any gear, so killed the truck and was getting my phone out to call for a tow and for a lark I restarted (truck was not in gear), put it in first gear then the rest to 5th and headed back home, shifted fine till I pulled in and shut gate. Then sat in the drive, turned horses out and started it again and shifted till I made it up the hill (pretty steep hill) unhooked the trailer and that is where she sat for a week.

Truck is 2500 cummins and is currently at 162,400 so realitvely still young in its lifespan.

 

So help me please haha truck was not shifting into gear. It was like a metal wall. Shifted it by Rev matching and it fixed itself. Go driving today and loss all power when I shifted. In gear just revving up. Pulled over and got it towed. Master cylinder?

 

If it is in gear and not pulling you have way more than a master cylinder gone.