I remember some folks having troubles like this and they found the disc was hanging up on the input shaft due to a lack of lubrication on the input shaft splines when the clutch was installed.<br><br>Ed

 

Do the obvious and simple first. Make sure the clutch cylinder reservoir is full of fluid. Then, put the emergency brake on and have someone inside the truck work the clutch pedal in and out and make sure the clutch lever is moving at the transmission. If these are good, I would guess the problem is inside the housing.

 

If the reservoir is full and the clutch release lever is not moving, the slave cylinder is most likely the culprit and will need to be replaced and the system bled.

 

There was a post on here a while back and I thought someone said NAPA had them at a reasonable price and that they were a heavier cylinder than the original. Do a search and see what turns up.

 

sounds like it could be moisture related. might want to try draining and replacing the fluid first

 

I don't know how you can have someone check out the linkage from underneath. Everything is inside the bell housing where it can't be seen.<br><br>If the slave cylinder is bad it will be leaking into the bell housing and then out on to the ground when the pedal goes to the floor. So if the problem is hydralic related, it will be in the master cylinder. <br><br>What usually happens at the master cylinder is the fliud leaks past the front seal, then gets caught by the rear seal and sent back to the reservoir. The pedal goes to the floor and the clutch isn't released. Some times the pedal won't return back to the top. Most of the time, at the first, the problem will be infrequent, but increases until, every time, the clutch won't disenguage. If you listen closely you can hear the fluid leaking past the front seal back into the reservoir. A tell tale sign can also be a small fluild weep onto the firewall from the master cylinder.<br><br>The cheapest I've found clutch hydralics is at South Bend, but you can get them at many auto parts stores. Peter will sell a new master and slave for the same price as NAPA sells the master only around here. Buying them at the dealer is expensive because every thing is sold as a complete, pre-bled system. In the long run the dealer option may be your best because of the hastle of trying to get the whole system bled. There's no bleeder at the slave for this.<br><br>Your problem may be mechanical inside the bell housing, somewhere, but if it's hydralics, it's not at the slave, or you'd definately know it.

 

It always sounds so easy. Until you actually try and do it.

 

Master and slave, together, from South Bent is under $100.