CKP MIL light
CKP MIL light
I got a 0336 CKP out of range DTC a week ago while driving.
Tach dropped to zero, truck ran as usual.
Replaced CKP (Crank Position Sensor) and CMP (Cam Position Sensor) yesterday, and purchased a "code reader" to erase the DTC.
All was good.
Drove the truck, MIL popped on at ~2300rpm and tach dropped to zero.
set a 0336 code......NO drivability isues.
Tach worked fine until it reached 2300rpm then dropped to zero, once below 2300 rpm tach would again function until passing 2300 rpm again.
Cleared code, within 5 miles 0336 code back again........
Cleared code, within a mile back again.
Purchased a second CKP from a different source, replaced.
Within 4 blocks same old, same old.
When the light is on and the tach at zero, the truck still runs without a single hiccup.
I'm lost on this one........
Any ideas?
Tach dropped to zero, truck ran as usual.
Replaced CKP (Crank Position Sensor) and CMP (Cam Position Sensor) yesterday, and purchased a "code reader" to erase the DTC.
All was good.
Drove the truck, MIL popped on at ~2300rpm and tach dropped to zero.
set a 0336 code......NO drivability isues.
Tach worked fine until it reached 2300rpm then dropped to zero, once below 2300 rpm tach would again function until passing 2300 rpm again.
Cleared code, within 5 miles 0336 code back again........
Cleared code, within a mile back again.
Purchased a second CKP from a different source, replaced.
Within 4 blocks same old, same old.
When the light is on and the tach at zero, the truck still runs without a single hiccup.
I'm lost on this one........
Any ideas?
On the sensors you have removed, have you seen any physical damage on the tip? I have not personally seen this, but have heard it is possible for the tone wheel that is bolted to the crankshaft to come loose. I'm not even sure how else you would diagnose this; the sensor's hole is probably too small to see into.
Apart from a bad connection, which you've probably already checked, I don't know what to suggest. I've diagnosed several with the P0336. It's always just been a failed sensor.
Apart from a bad connection, which you've probably already checked, I don't know what to suggest. I've diagnosed several with the P0336. It's always just been a failed sensor.
The sensor's tips are untouched, unscuffed.
I also removed all the connections from my Edge Comp in the engine compartment thinking that might have been scrambling signals, but no change, it still set a MIL code 0336.
I hate to say it, but it might have to make its second trip to the dealer since it rolled off the lot in '99.
(the first was to have the evaporator replaced two year's ago)
I also removed all the connections from my Edge Comp in the engine compartment thinking that might have been scrambling signals, but no change, it still set a MIL code 0336.
I hate to say it, but it might have to make its second trip to the dealer since it rolled off the lot in '99.
(the first was to have the evaporator replaced two year's ago)
Looked at the end of the sensors again while cleaning up the tools......
After hitting them with some Brake-Clean looks like there's some scuffing.........
Now looking up Tone Wheel in my Factory Manual......
After looking up the "fix" procedures.....
Edit to add:
Aye-Chiuhauha......
I'm getting too old to do this stuff.........
After hitting them with some Brake-Clean looks like there's some scuffing.........

Now looking up Tone Wheel in my Factory Manual......
After looking up the "fix" procedures.....
Edit to add:
Aye-Chiuhauha......

I'm getting too old to do this stuff.........
Well that really sucks. If you get the starter out of the way, is there any way you can look in the hole, or stick a long skinny screwdriver in there to feel for looseness? I'd hate to have to drop the pan without knowing for sure.
I'm no Rocket Surgeon (
), but if there's supposed to be clearance from the tone wheel to the sensor, I see scuff marks on the end of the sensor, and it seems the problem causes the MIL to come on at over 2,000 rpm (centrifugal force?)..........it looks like it's pan-pullin' time.Why in the heck would they put a PLASTIC tone wheel on a diesel crankshaft?..........it's not like there'd be a lot of vibration or anything like that.........
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Dealer called today to tell me the code was caused by
a loose tone ring on the crankshaft..........
I told the service writer that when I dropped the truck off last Monday.
Oh well.........it should be back on the ground and back on the streets by COB tomorrow.
Service Writer said the mechanic called him back to the lift when he pulled the tranny
and told him that was the first Black Torque Converter he ever saw on a Dodge Ram.
Dave Goerend strikes again.
approx $1,200 later my wallet is lighter,..... but my back isn't killing me and my hands are still clean.
I guess 2 trips to the dealer in 10 years isn't too bad.
a loose tone ring on the crankshaft..........

I told the service writer that when I dropped the truck off last Monday.
Oh well.........it should be back on the ground and back on the streets by COB tomorrow.
Service Writer said the mechanic called him back to the lift when he pulled the tranny
and told him that was the first Black Torque Converter he ever saw on a Dodge Ram.

Dave Goerend strikes again.

approx $1,200 later my wallet is lighter,..... but my back isn't killing me and my hands are still clean.
I guess 2 trips to the dealer in 10 years isn't too bad.
Just got in from a 350 mile drive.
Ran like a champ and NO codes.
Thanks for the head's up on the Tone Ring.
Yeah,.....5 years or so ago I'd have snatched the tranny out after I come home from work.........now.............
....different story.
Something about passing that 1/2 century mark just makes me realize I'm not 18 years old any more.
Ran like a champ and NO codes.
Thanks for the head's up on the Tone Ring.

Yeah,.....5 years or so ago I'd have snatched the tranny out after I come home from work.........now.............
....different story.Something about passing that 1/2 century mark just makes me realize I'm not 18 years old any more.
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