Viesel

In the last few weeks I have had a lot of problems with low fuel pressure causing loss of power. I changed the LP AGAIN only after just changing it a few months ago. Then I started to have the same problem again a few days later. So I changed the filter and it was ok for a day or so and then I lost pressure again. I could hear the pump running but getting low pressure. I then removed the fuel tank and checked the internal workings and found it quite clean (being that I run Biodiesel) and so I upgraded the fuel lines while I had it out and then added a Carter 18 PSI pump that everyone here on the forum talks about and put it all back together. It ran fine about a day or so and then started loosing power and then also my trans started to shift in and out or OD and then got to the point that it would not even go into over drive and the truck got more and more sluggish. So I did the TPPS reset again!, and it didnt help. So THEN I ordered a new (reman) VP44 and before received it I found the problem.
Here it is. The right battery was reading 5.3 volts and the left battery was reading 11.2 volts. 60 months batteries and only 36 months old and still under full replacement warranty.
Now someone tell me how the heck did this thing start with that low of voltage?
I installed the new batteries and all my problems are fixed and running perfect and shifting gears better than it has ever had since I bought the truck. Now if the VP44 (still unwrapped in the box) can be returned.
Well, long story but I got to say that after long nights reading and researching this forum I finally got her fixed. Thanks to all that have posted excellant information for the ones that need a little help with their trucks.

Shovelhead

Thanks for posting the results of your findings.
That might help someone else down the road with a similar problem.

AAmeeting

It Helped Me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

OUTDOORSMAN

while doing maintenance tommorow i am going to throw the meter on the batteries. thanks for the heads up. good info....

fschiola

Me too. Thanks for the heads up.

DSjockey

Trans shifting problems (lock/unlock) found to be dieing batterys, under load test one found to be at 60% other found to be at 70%. With all the electronics you've got to have good batterys and connections.

RowJ

Can now cross one of those "some day I'll figure it out" questions off my list.

Was noticing irratic lockup in 3rd gear for about two months. On an unrelated subject (or so I thought) I replaced both factory batteries, after 4 years. They were acting weak and, when finally tested...read low.

Never made the connection between new batteries and the confusing disappearance of my lock up problem....until now. Thanks DSJ!

RJ

Mudslinger2

Just a comment regarding battery replacement. Never change only one battery, always change both batteries and don't mix and match batteries. If possible buy 2 batteries manufactured from the same batch.

driftwood rattler

Viesel; Thanks For Your Post,i Never Would Have Thought Of The Batteries Being Bad. Sure Would Screw Things Up In There. Was This Voltage Check Running Or Off? My Batteries Are Factory Yet In My 01, Will Check Them Asap. Driftwood Rattler 01 Qc 4x4 6 Speed Westin Nerf Bars Hp4601 Carter With Prefilter By Tank, Boost And Fp Gauge, Color Obvious

1ST GEN.

I had one battery go bad which keep draining the other battery and I bought an optima red top and converted over to a one battery system the truck cranks faster now that it did with two , but with as much electronics as the 24 valve has I wonder if I need two batteries so the alternator won't constantly be charging or overloading one battery

KennyG

Just came off a trip...everything was going great..until one morning. Went to start and "dead". Checked cables to see if the connection may have been loose. All was tight. Got a boost and took a ride on the highway to charge the batteries. . Returned and disconnected both batteries figuring I might have something draining them. After a couple hours reconnected batteries and same thing happened.."nothing"! I got a boost and went to the nearest dealer. I still have an extended full wty. and wanted to get it checked out. They did a charging circuit test and then a load test on the batteries. One of the batteries (both are 750 amps) was only holding 160 amps which caused the other battery to run down. Both batteries had the indicator "eyes" showing green. Tech told me he had a pallet of batteries at the back that were stone dead, and the indicator eyes were still showing green. Batteries in truck are 5 1/2 yrs. old and warranty is 5 yrs. Figures ! I replaced both knowing that if I only replaced the real bad one, it would only be a matter of time for the one old battery to destroy the new one and ending up with the same problem.

bentwings

I just replace both batteries. They both had green eyes too. One was stone dead the other took only 2 sec to kill it on the discharge machine. They gave no warning whatso ever untill one day...no start.
When I replaced them I just unhooked the right battery first and put in the new one, then did the left. That way there was just enough juice to keep the electronics working. It started right up and everything works great.
I have a 5sp so some of the trans problems didn't show up.

bentwings

J BODY

The green test eye works just fine........for the one cell it's in.

storx

hopely you upgraded to a better battery lik ean optima....?????? i had both of my yellow top batterys as long as i have owned my boat..... and i took the old batteries out of my truck and but my boat optimas in it bak in 2000......i yet to have a problem with them yet and its been about 8 years since i bought them......