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Are 02 dodges that goood

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Old Feb 10, 2011 | 07:13 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by 8seconds
No, I pull trailers full of hay and cattle. I also try to wait till at less it drops below 400.
Just asking? I have read the blue chip page about pumps, and it seems they know there stuff, but why is his any better than any other ones. Thier stuff seems pretty pricey.
Well, he didn't tell!!
And he shouldn't.
He apparently knows his stuff about pumps and goes one step (or three) farther than most rebuilders.
I know of a situation where he replaced a pump for a reason that wasn't the pumps or his fault.

He is doing them right.
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Old Feb 10, 2011 | 10:20 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by 8seconds
Ok I have never heard of this elbow, I'm a little shocked cause I know a lot of people with dodge trucks. I feel a litte dumb, if that's all its going to take to fix it. I bought my chip used so that is probably the reason I didn't get one. I have even had techs look at my truck and they never said anything. I have one on the way now and I hope works. Will it wear out my tubro faster, I just replaced it around 7000 miles? What is to high of boost, or should I try to set it at.
So with the cold air intake, I don't need to up grade? Your the only other person I have heard say that. The other was a diesal tech for conaco. But I have heard from about everyone and there brother I need to open it up and put a cool air intake on it. Why are the K&N so bad?
One other question, When i'm going down the road and I hit a bump just right my front end goes nuts. My steering wheel starts shaking like crazy. What do I need to do to stop it? It only does it once in a blue moon, but when it does I can't control it.
Thanks for all the help so far.

If you don't have a Jhook for a Automatic trans truck or a boost elbow if it is a standard trans, then that is absolutely your problem. You just need to install the elbow/j-hook and you will have no high egt issues until you get into the higher settings on your performance box. The manual trans trucks use a hx35 turbo and are good to 35 psi max and the auto trucks use a hy35 and are good to max 32psi. For a work truck I would suggest not running up to the max psi by 3 to 5 psi. I think you will be amazed at the hp/torque the cummins will put out without high egt's then. Do not exceed 1200f on long pulls and your turbo will be just fine, perhaps your old turbo saw some high egt's which caused it's premature failure.

As far as cold air intake goes, I would hold off until you try going to higher boost pressures. The cold air intakes are mostly marketing and most as it turns out are hot air intakes, and the K+N is terrible for letting in dirt.
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Old Feb 10, 2011 | 11:23 PM
  #33  
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bhaf is like 30-40$ and a heat shield template is avaliable (free)and you can cut one out of sheet tin.

agreed on a boost elbow or even lock wire the gate completely closed, odds are pretty good even locked shut you wont exceed the turbos max safe limit.


have you pulled codes recently? try the key on key off trick, if you see a 0216, that will indicate a failing vp, that cant achieve its desired timing.
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Old Feb 10, 2011 | 11:45 PM
  #34  
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I have learned more about my truck in the last two days, than I have since I've had it. I will not be buying a cold air intake. You guys know more than most or all the people telling me I need one. I have the 4 inch exhaust, and it is a 4 inch down pipe too. It does not leave much room between the pipe and the firewall. I does have the high flow muffler. I know it seems like I don't keep up my maintenance, But all of this has happen in less than 10000 miles. The turbo went out before I even put the chip or exhaust on it. I don't have the $5000 just to put in it. So I replace the parts I can when I can. This truck is not my daily drive. Plus tell this point I have had people tell me I need this and I need that. My truck has had the dead pedal for the longest time. That was before I new much of anything and it only did it sometimes when I costed down a long hill. Its still driveable but at times I cold shoot it. When the turbo went out I thought that was it. So I bought the chip, not knowing that wasn't fixed. Its hard to throw that money out there when your not getting your problems fixed or are unsure. I'm still really nervous about buying a IP, even though after reading all the post I pretty sure thats it. What if I'm wrong, that is 1000 to 2000 i could have put somewhere else. Honstly I have taken it in to two shops and none of them said it needed a IP. Tell getting on here I was still thinking I had to buy a cold air intake. I'm sure there is a ton more I'll learn from the help of everyone on the site.
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Old Feb 10, 2011 | 11:49 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by nickg
bhaf is like 30-40$ and a heat shield template is avaliable (free)and you can cut one out of sheet tin.

agreed on a boost elbow or even lock wire the gate completely closed, odds are pretty good even locked shut you wont exceed the turbos max safe limit.


have you pulled codes recently? try the key on key off trick, if you see a 0216, that will indicate a failing vp, that cant achieve its desired timing.
I pulled codes off my truck yesterday, which was something else I learn. It had to, p 0500 and p 1693. Which from what I understand the last one says there is another code I need to get from a programmer.
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Old Feb 11, 2011 | 12:21 AM
  #36  
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Dead pedal isn't always a bad injection pump. Do a search on here about resetting your APPS. The APPS is your throttle position sensor that if going out can display similar symptoms of a bad injection pump. Good luck and keep asking until you get it fixed. Once fixed it will be night and day better than that old ford.
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Old Feb 11, 2011 | 12:27 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by 8seconds
I pulled codes off my truck yesterday, which was something else I learn. It had to, p 0500 and p 1693. Which from what I understand the last one says there is another code I need to get from a programmer.
Sounds like we have the same truck. I have an 02 Dodge 6 speed with 3.55's too. Now you are going to make me rack my brain thinking back to when I drove it and everything I did!

The p0500 is a speed sensor code. If you have slipped your wheels in mud or snow lately it can throw it, or fast idle can throw it. the 1693 is a companion code, but was probably set because of the 0500.

Now as far as your egt's, I just went outside to look and see if I could remember what I did and hit the panic button in my pocket after midnight with the hood up and my head close to the horn, only to remember that I've had massive engine work done since then. I had simply clamped a bolt in the hose to plug my wastegate off. A boost elbow is probably a better solution, but I didn't want to wait for one (typical me).

Either get a boost elbow or plug off your wastegate (plugging it short term might help you decide if the boost elbow would help you), yank out your stock airbox and put in a BHAF (I do not have a heat shield and have had no problems).

I did not see if you said what you are seeing as far as boost right now, so it is possible that a little more boost is all you need to keep those egt's in check.
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Old Feb 11, 2011 | 12:47 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Tray
Sounds like we have the same truck. I have an 02 Dodge 6 speed with 3.55's too. Now you are going to make me rack my brain thinking back to when I drove it and everything I did!

The p0500 is a speed sensor code. If you have slipped your wheels in mud or snow lately it can throw it, or fast idle can throw it. the 1693 is a companion code, but was probably set because of the 0500.

Now as far as your egt's, I just went outside to look and see if I could remember what I did and hit the panic button in my pocket after midnight with the hood up and my head close to the horn, only to remember that I've had massive engine work done since then. I had simply clamped a bolt in the hose to plug my wastegate off. A boost elbow is probably a better solution, but I didn't want to wait for one (typical me).

Either get a boost elbow or plug off your wastegate (plugging it short term might help you decide if the boost elbow would help you), yank out your stock airbox and put in a BHAF (I do not have a heat shield and have had no problems).

I did not see if you said what you are seeing as far as boost right now, so it is possible that a little more boost is all you need to keep those egt's in check.
LOL, thanks for helping. I just ordered a boost elbow today. My boost does not run over 19 or 20. Does the BHAF really make a difference and do you have to replace it the same as you would the stock filter?
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Old Feb 11, 2011 | 07:26 AM
  #39  
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the bhaf, is just a really big filter, I've had mine on there for at least 2yrs and more miles than I can count, I have an outter wear sock on it, its like a fine mesh bag that stops certain sized dirt particulars from getting in, every so often I just remove the filter and blow it out with compressed air. as long as i can see light thru the filter its good to go.

everyone is offering excellent advice, just remember to check your lift pump pressure before you start changing parts
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Old Feb 11, 2011 | 07:30 AM
  #40  
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if you want to see today how much better the boost elbow will help, get a pair of locking vicegrips and pinch off the line where the boost elbow will go. just remember on some trucks, like mine the actuator spring was weak enough that even with the line pinched off I could not get over 20psi, if that happens to you just lock wire the gate closed, and use your edge to set your max boost numbers
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Old Feb 11, 2011 | 07:41 AM
  #41  
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I told you these guys will help. One more thing about the IP, sometimes it won't throw a code when its going out. Mine was having hard start issues and would give me the dead pedal sometimes. If its a mechanical failure it might not show up on the ECM. Check out Blue Chips webpage and he explains it pretty good.
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Old Feb 11, 2011 | 10:42 AM
  #42  
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If you are having dead pedal and tried resetting your Apps. (accelerator pedal position sensor) and have no codes pointing to a IP then it is a good chance you have a bad Apps., many people on the forum site have had good luck with the replacement Timbo Apps. for about 1/3 the cost from Dodge at around 160$. Here is his site http://www.dodgecumminsapps.com/

Don't even worry about BHAF or CAI at this point, I have tested them and so has several articles in magazines and they can either hurt or help in very small percentages at these lower hp levels. Just make sure your stock air filter is clean.
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Old Feb 11, 2011 | 11:45 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by 8seconds
LOL, thanks for helping. I just ordered a boost elbow today. My boost does not run over 19 or 20.
More boost doesn't help unless you have more fuel. Truck defuels slightly over 20# boost unless you have a boost fooler.

You do need gauges - at least FP gauge (& fuel system) to protect your VP. When my alternator took a dump in the back country of TN, I didn't notice until the check gauges light came on. Because of that, I'm now of the opinion that a low pressure light set slightly below your minimum normal FP would be useful. There is room in my A pillar pod for the light. I haven't researched what needs to be done to have the light come on at a specific level - only that the lights are available.
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Old Feb 11, 2011 | 12:13 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Junk Man
More boost doesn't help unless you have more fuel. Truck defuels slightly over 20# boost unless you have a boost fooler.

You do need gauges - at least FP gauge (& fuel system) to protect your VP. When my alternator took a dump in the back country of TN, I didn't notice until the check gauges light came on. Because of that, I'm now of the opinion that a low pressure light set slightly below your minimum normal FP would be useful. There is room in my A pillar pod for the light. I haven't researched what needs to be done to have the light come on at a specific level - only that the lights are available.
He has an edge juice with attitude. That will help him with more boost and gives him gauges as well.
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Old Feb 11, 2011 | 02:20 PM
  #45  
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Ok I did the vice grip trick and it seem to have help a lot. I still was not able to go over 21 pounds of boost but that could be cause of other problem. I did the apps reset and took it to a parts store. The code P0216 came up. So with the pedal acting up I would say I need a new IP. The engine also surges a little going down the road when its just crusing. I know it does the dead pedal at random times, but the parts store is 15 miles away, it did not do it. So my other question what are the chances they are both bad or did I probably just hit one of the radom times?
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