I like the line-plenty of pressure but not enough flow-man them Dodge dealers or Dodge mechanics must think the public is plain morons to believe a line like that, take a hose run water thru it a 0 pressure, how much water in a min. runs thru,take same hose hook it to pump that pumps say 10 PSI,then see how much more water goes thru in a min. Only one solution for long term fix,maybe lifetime fix- Walbro GS392 inline pump.

 

knock on wood my factory pump has lasted 145,000 with good pressure and is still going strong. and yes it is the stock since i'm the second owner and i bought it off one of my friends dad who left the truck bone stock and drove it. but i've got the FASS II ready to install in a week or two

 

I put a Holley Blue FP Inline with my Stock LP, Have 30000 Miles on them and NEVER drops Below 20lbs of pressure, Checked the motor temp on Holley after running for 45min,It was warm,but not to hot to touch it.

It's an Ongoing test...

 

Thats remarkable to last that long,you got a guage on it,whats the pressure?

 

Install wasn't very hard at all. Very good instructions. I did (do) have some issues that has kept my truck down over the weekend though.

1.) After install was complete, it was time to fire it up. Turned the key on and immediately blew the fuse. Had to steal (2) more out of the ol' lady's Durango, blew them also. I never heard the pump. I sent the wife to town to buy more fuses - lots of them. I tried another one with the Fass elec. harness disconnected and the fuse lived. Hooked it back up while the wife turned the key - fuse blew but pump never ran. Time to get on the dieselpp website for some answers. Loosened the (3) bolts and pump started, although it is still very noisy.

2.) Return flare fitting leaks. More than a drip, more of a stream. This is why the truck is not driveable. Tried to tighten further and pulled the flare out of the nut. Will buy a new one today.

3.) Truck is harrrrd to start. It has never even turned over one complete revolution before and it would start. Now it is crank, crank, crank, etc. It will finally start but man it s hard on the starter.

I have a Autometer 0-15 psi gauge installed and it is pegged out. Not for sure what kind of pressure I am running.

I am not saying that I am unhappy with the Fass system at all. I am sure it will live up to its reputation. Just have to work through these issues first.

I do wonder if a 95 would have better for my application. When I ordered it, I was never asked which one I wanted, they just sent me a 150. My fault, I should have specified.

 

Sometimes, a piece of debris will enter the Pump's Gerotor upon initial start up. I have seen bits of rubber hose, to some fibrous junk that can stop the gears. You did the right thing to get it started again. Its always good to blow out the hose before install. It may take a bit for the noise to subdue. The air may need some time to work out of the pump. If it keeps up, try the bucket test.

Part number PL-1002. Its the 3/8's barb to flare fitting. We had a very bad batch of these fittings that were released in our kits. By the time we relized that the fittings were bad, we had Several kits already out. We have sence changed suppliers over this issue, and check every fitting leaving our shop. If you contact your dealer, they can get you a new one sent out. There has been many butts chewed on this issue. We feel that its under control now.

The 95 GPH unit should not make a differance if you are haveing hard starts. Pressure will all still be the same. You got some options here:

"This is only for the new harnesses with the Relay and Red/Green wire to the BATT.

Find the red wire in the FASS harness that goes from the Relay to the Stock Engine harness. What you want to do is cut this wire where (IF you have too) can splice it back together. This is the sensor wire for the relay and turns the FASS on.

Now solder or butt-splice (Whatever you prefer...just make it solid) a length of wire to the end that runs to the relay. You will need to run this into the cab and to the Fuse box. you will need to locate your Electric window fuse. Get a fuse tap and tap into the fuse. For those of you that don’t like taping into the fuse box, just locate a "Run" only Hot circuit to tap the wire into. (IE door jams where the wires are under the dash, find the electric window hot wire) This wire does not require much of a load at all so the amperage draw will be very small.

What this does is only allows the FASS to run only when the Key is turned to the "RUN" position. This fuse does not have power at "ACC" or "Start". The 2 trucks we have tried it on, it cleared the hard starts up immediately with no codes set."

OR

"Get a Smarty and flash the truck....this will update the ECM to the latest and greatest from DC"



95 GPH and 150 GPH should get you about the same pressure. That shouldnt make a dif. You can look at the motor base and see what you have.

"A" stamped in the base means 150 GPH
"B" stamped in the base means 95 GPH

Hope this helps......

 

First of all, let me praise your instructions and troubleshooting guides. First rate. Not like most companies that seem to want to keep these things secret.
The noise is not that loud. It does change pitch often. I'm sure it is how it is supposed to sound. Can't hear it inside the truck, only when standing next to it.



No biggie. I have put a new one on and no leaks.



OK, whats a Smarty and how will a reflash fix this? I'm 100% positive that it is the higher pressure that is causing this hard start condition. Been tearing my shop apart trying to find a weaker spring to prove this. Might have to order one.
The website says the older spring will bring the pressures down to around 12 psi. I would rather keep them higher than that.





150 gph for sure.

Thanks again.

 

I will let some other members on here explain what a Smarty is......BUT you can bet my truck will eventually have one when my clutch isnt so tempermential...... . Have you checked your pressure? We started using a new PS-1002 spring that brings the pressure back down to about 13-14 PSI at idle....where the stock pump puts it. BUT here is my take on the whole hard start issue:

I feel its pressure related. BUT its more with the way the truck tries to hobble the HPFP/FASS to lower pressure when cranking. The Gerotor pump makes pressure instantly. The stock vein style Carter takes a bit for pressure to build. The veins in the pump worked off centrifugal force...so it takes RPM to make the pump work efficiently. SO to lower pressure, the ECM pulses the pump to keep the RPM’s down. Reduces the duty cycle. Lowering pressure when cranking. This does not work with the HPFP/FASS. They make pressure too fast for this pulsing to have much effect. SO some trucks exhibit hard starts when hot under this condition. An even smaller amt. are all the time (These are the ones that might need to look into a VP-44 replacement or air leak). Most don’t have any issue. I feel the reflash varies the timing when the truck is hot to help with hot starts. It may also pulse the pump at longer intervals. I’m not 100% sure on this one. BUT all I can tell you that reflashes have helped many times with this issue.

 

xxxcbr i had a hard start issue with my truck after installing the fass 95 system couldnt figure it out then my vp44 croaked put new one on still had hard starting buddy of mine works in a fuel shop and he said only thing he could think of is the bypass valave that is in the bango fitting of the return line on the vp44 and sure enuff she starts like a champ now holden 20psi at idol and pullin down 2 16 psi wot

 

Just step up to a FASS and be done with it.
I have a couple friends who tried Holley and Vulcan. They both had more pressure and lasted longer than stock, but both are now running FASS.
FASS not only pumps fuel better but also removes air from the fuel and makes your truck run better/idle smoother and even a little better mpg. Well worth the price.

 

What did you do to the banjo fitting? Let us know.
Hey Rick you might want to remove your phone # from your sig, unless you want everyone on the internet calling you.

 

possum67, what did you do to your return line? I'm very interested. I did play with the pressure a bit and the lower pressure does in fact help the starting. I only brought it down a couple of psi but it still has to crank a while before it busts off. I'm still not for sure what pressure I am running. My 15 psi gauge is pegged even when my foot is in it.

 

Its the Check valve on the VP-44 return line. Takes a 19mm wrench.....5 min install.....this has been know to help with hard starts......

 

Is it recommended? Pro's and con's?
I have had a chance to drive my truck with with the new Fass. I notice a bit of difference. Seems to run a little smoother and a little more power? May just be me. I bought the system for dependability, anything else is just a bonus.

 

Worth checking if you are having hard starts........