So I'm having some troubles. Haven't even made it to the kingpins yet. So I resorted to the front brakes/wheel bearings sticky to get those out of the way. And this part right here through me for a loop:

"- Knowing you've read all this mess before starting, you'll have a good idea as to how to: Remove the manual hub cover, remove the set-screw, remove the manual lock gear, remove the spring, remove the small and large C-clips, remove the manual lock-out housing, remove the axle jamb-nut, remove the lock-washer, remove the axle-nut, and pull the hub off the axle. "

Even reading the rest of the thread I'm having trouble. Installing new parts isn't the same as removing old crusty ones. I made it to the jam nut. But not sure what I'm looking at. Is the jam by the one with one slot? How do I get that off? I went to Oreilly's and got the socket for the axle nut with 4 prongs. Any suggestions for removing the jam nut???

 

Post up a pic if you can, I am having a little trouble visualizing what you are looking at. My front axle had been altered and had a nylock nut from a dana 70 rear with one of the little locker thingys from the same. So it basically had nothing holding the wheel on...Mark

 

Ahhh! Don't have a pic at the moment and not home. I'll get one when I get home. I'm pretty sure what I'm looking at is factory equipment but I just can't get it off lol

 

There's 2 nuts you use the socket for, but in between the nuts is a ring that has holes in it that keeps the inside spindle nut from turning via a little nipple that locks into the hole.

Remove outside Lock nut with socket.
Remove the metal ring w/holes in it with long needle nose
Remove inside nut with socket (looks identical to outer nut)
Remove the outter wheel bearing then slide the rotor/hub off

 

I wonder if they sold me the wrong size socket....

 

Take a look at this thread from the Sticky...Written by BC847...shows everything you need to know about the front 4wd hub assembly.


https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=143024

 

here is what im looking at:




the ring in green only has one notch and looks like it needs to come off first, but i dont know how to remove it. the blue ring looks like what my socket looks like, but my socket will not bit on it (either because they gave me the wrong size, or the green colored ring is in the way) thoughts?

 

yep. ive read that entire sticky. it paraphrases the removal of the hub parts, claiming that if you read the entire sticky, you should know how to remove everything. this is not true. the way he installs the axle nuts, using a screw driver, does not seem to me like it is going to work for removing them. being as they are torqued at 240-300ft/lbs (per this sticky).

i have also been through the kingpin rebuild sticky. it also paraphrases the entire brake down, and starts from the build up, and says go in reverse. this is fairly difficult to follow that way.

i have never done a kingpin axle before therefore i do not know how to put it back together, because i do not know how to take it apart, becaues ive never done it before... lol

i am a visual learner. soon as i break this thing down it will go back together in a heartbeat. just feel like im stuck on something stupid that i cant seem to find described anywhere. ive checked youtube vids, pirate 4x4, coloradok5... ive researched but there isnt a very clear step by step for a teardown anywhere. not bitching, not ranting, just saying, i need some helpful tips.

thanks guys

 

The green ring is your spindle...it does not come off....yet. The blue one is the nut you need to remove first. Then there will be the retainer with all the holes....fish that out with a small pick. Then there will be another nut the same as the one in blue...but with a small pin on it.

Sounds like you have the wrong socket. You need to look through this thread.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...t-t276223.html

 

I just recently got done redoing my first 4wd front end rebuild. Never done one before either. I found the information in the sticky quite helpful.

This pic helped me a lot on the front hubs....

 

It appears that the slots are gummed up a bit. If the socket you bought isn't lining up with the slots, those bastages sold you the wrong socket. My 73 land cruiser had a similar but smaller setup. It also helps to have a helper hold the socket tight while you apply the pressure. As bc847 says. the nut needs to be tightened to 240 to 300 foot #s, then loosened 1/4 turn. Maybe the po didn't do the loosening part ....Mark

 

The spindle nut to 240#s? I have always read it torques to 50#s then loosen 1/4 turn and fine adjust from there.

 

That is what is written in BC's thread. I recall it being high, they really want you to set that bearing...Mark

 

I know the king pins are really high but i can't see how 250-300 is right for the spindle. 1/4 turn off that would still have the bearing seized.

 

We are pouring the rest of the roof on my house today, afterwards I'll check the FSM and make sure, but I do remember it being high. I had to get a friend to hold the socket in whilst I cranked on it...Mark