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Working on Dana 60 kingpins

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Old Sep 9, 2013 | 04:21 AM
  #16  
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http://www.dana60manual.com/pages/page15.htm
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Old Sep 9, 2013 | 04:23 AM
  #17  
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I am talking about the inner, adjusting nut, the op is talking about the outer jamb nut. That one is torqued to 180-205 foot #s and left that way. It is just on there tight and could be tough to get off, especially without the proper tool...Mark
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Old Sep 9, 2013 | 04:27 AM
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I understand what you're talking about. Those instructions say it goes to 50#s as well! The outer nut provides no load on the bearing and is just a jam nut. No need to go that tight because the keeper ring locks the two nuts together and from turning.
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Old Sep 9, 2013 | 06:01 AM
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From: Land of the Toxic Avenger
The attached is from the FSM.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...90&postcount=7

The inside nut is set to 50 ft lbs
Loosen the nut.
Tighten the nut again to 41-54 FT LBS while spinning the rotor
Back off the nut 135-150 degrees to set the free play
install the tabbed washer aligning it to the nearest hole
Install the outer locknut and tighten it to 160-205 Ft. Lbs. 160 FT LBS WORKS FINE !

You should be able to feel a slight movement in the rotor if pulled horizontally towards you, although I snug mine up to the next hole in hte tabbed washer by re doing the process over again if I feel the play is too great, or loosen it if it's not enough. Newly packed bearings tend to feel good for the moment, but then you drive it around for a bit, and it appears to loosen up slightly.
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Old Sep 9, 2013 | 06:06 AM
  #20  
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Hmm, wonder why the fsm and dana provide differing info
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Old Sep 9, 2013 | 06:20 AM
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From: Land of the Toxic Avenger
Originally Posted by 93-12Smoke
Hmm, wonder why the fsm and dana provide differing info
I have no idea, as I've never read that info from Dana before.

I guess you'd have to determine which documents were produced / printed last (newest) and assume that there was a reason for the discrepancy.

you could set the outer locknut to 50Ft lbs, and as long as it didn't loosen up at any time, the numbers are similar on how to set the freeplay, except the FSM has you go beyond the 90* to 135*.

Reality is that I "fine tune" my rotors freeplay to prevent in and out movement. Sometimes I'll lock the outer nut down 3 or 4 different times, adjusting the position of the washer / inner nut, depending on how loose the rotor feels.

Oh well, as long as neither of us has had a failure... I guess there's a lot of tolerance for goof up...
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Old Sep 9, 2013 | 08:59 AM
  #22  
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I always check them after a few miles get put on them anyways.
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Old Sep 9, 2013 | 07:09 PM
  #23  
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Hey guys thanks for all the great info. I believe Oreilly's sold me the wrong socket. I guess I'll be going back there!

Do you all suggest fresh wheel bearings and spindle nuts while I'm in there?
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Old Sep 9, 2013 | 07:42 PM
  #24  
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From: Land of the Toxic Avenger
Originally Posted by DOZENVALVE
Hey guys thanks for all the great info. I believe Oreilly's sold me the wrong socket. I guess I'll be going back there!

Do you all suggest fresh wheel bearings and spindle nuts while I'm in there?
Depends on whether or not you see mirror finish, or scored finish.

Wipe the roller surfaces and examine the bearing shine. Are they scratched ? are they blue(d) ? Are they beat up? Based on the color of that grease in those pics you showed, you may have had water infiltration there. If they look good, completely degrease them by soaking them in a solvent that won't damage the bearings. After you have them clean, put them together, and roll them back and forth. Either they will roll nice and smooth, or they will hop, skip and jump. You'll know at that point whether to replace or not.

I've only changed the nuts if the previous mechanic used a punch to remove them and they're all beat to ......


Either way, wipe all that grease out of the hub and replace it with new grease. IF need be, replace the races in there as they will be scored like the rollers were. The races need to be replaced. Don't change just the bearings, as you're will regret doing so...
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Old Sep 9, 2013 | 08:25 PM
  #25  
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From: Washington State
Originally Posted by NJTman
Depends on whether or not you see mirror finish, or scored finish.

Wipe the roller surfaces and examine the bearing shine. Are they scratched ? are they blue(d) ? Are they beat up? Based on the color of that grease in those pics you showed, you may have had water infiltration there. If they look good, completely degrease them by soaking them in a solvent that won't damage the bearings. After you have them clean, put them together, and roll them back and forth. Either they will roll nice and smooth, or they will hop, skip and jump. You'll know at that point whether to replace or not.

I've only changed the nuts if the previous mechanic used a punch to remove them and they're all beat to ......


Either way, wipe all that grease out of the hub and replace it with new grease. IF need be, replace the races in there as they will be scored like the rollers were. The races need to be replaced. Don't change just the bearings, as you're will regret doing so...
Thanks
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Old Sep 9, 2013 | 09:06 PM
  #26  
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I just went and got a different socket it and that was my problem. The originally one was way too small and they screwed me! I guess I should have made him show me it got at the store. Now I'm not confused at all. They had me second guessing myself!
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Old Sep 11, 2013 | 09:19 PM
  #27  
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i got home at a reasonable hour tonight and puled the jam nut off. only to find that the actualy spindle nut is a different size. here we go again lol. back to oreillys for another socket.
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Old Sep 11, 2013 | 09:30 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by DOZENVALVE
i got home at a reasonable hour tonight and puled the jam nut off. only to find that the actualy spindle nut is a different size. here we go again lol. back to oreillys for another socket.
It should be the same size. If it isn't, somebody has altered it...Mark
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Old Sep 12, 2013 | 06:33 AM
  #29  
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From: Land of the Toxic Avenger
Originally Posted by DOZENVALVE
i got home at a reasonable hour tonight and puled the jam nut off. only to find that the actualy spindle nut is a different size. here we go again lol. back to oreillys for another socket.


the inside nut shouldn't be that tight, as matter of fact it should be loose enough to simply push the nut loose with a screwdriver or punch (by hand). Those inside nuts don't lock the bearing down, the outside nut does. Now you should purchase a new set as they should be the same for torquing purposes...or just have two different size sockets on hand..
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