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What is Wrong With Battery Sellers These Days? [Rant]

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Old Dec 4, 2008 | 09:16 PM
  #31  
stinkindiesel's Avatar
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By "kinda free" I mean I forgot to tell you about the hernia...
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Old Dec 4, 2008 | 09:18 PM
  #32  
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From: Maine
My dually has 2 smaller batts in parallel. They are getting drastically weak. I don't know off the top of my head the size, but what size do you guys get for 2 parallel batteries? It will have to do many cold starts... I'm guessing just adding the CCAmperage like a normal parallel circuit right? so x2 550CCA's in parallel?
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Old Dec 4, 2008 | 11:12 PM
  #33  
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Hey guys just wanted to put my 2 cents in, I work for advance and we carry 31 series batteries "farm & truck" is on the label but thats what u want. 31-5 is what i'm running now, I got my battery from when i worked at oreilly's in TN its a Super Start 31-5 for around 70 so dollars. It does have a warranty and does an excellent job. I highly reccomend your local oreilly's over any other parts chain even advance. I've notice working there, that their will to care about a customers needs or potential needs just isn't there. The big thing I hate about it is now I'm associated with these guys you have to "Drag by their ears to show them the part you need"
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Old Dec 4, 2008 | 11:16 PM
  #34  
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From: Oklahoma City
Originally Posted by RumbleFish
i ran my 91 on a reconditioned 800cca battery for two years. only time it wouldnt start was when it was -20 one morning and it ran the grid heater forever. it turned over but not fast enough to start. i then bought a new deka group 31 through my then employer for about $67.

being in socal i wouldnt have thought twice about running one from a parts store. 800-900cca would have been plenty.
I don't live in SoCal. I am visiting - or stuck here working on work - depending on how you want to look at it. I live in Oklahoma and I travel extensively, including up north. I am going to buy the best battery I can get my hands on. Putting an 800 in there was not even a thought. I don't like turning keys and getting no response because it always seems to happen to me in the middle of nowhere.

Originally Posted by DodgeFreak
And just because OEM says 1000 cca doesn't mean you have to put a 1000cca in, its just company standard to fit a wide varity of climates, People in CA, won't need 1000cca could probably get by with 850-950 cca, But people in Alaska would probably need More than 1000 CCA because it gets really flippin cold there, People in the midwest could get by with a 1000, It all depends on where you live and the climate.
Where you live doesn't matter. Where you drive and park for the night is what matters.

Originally Posted by olddodgetrucks
if you just have to have the biggist batt they make go to a farm mach or highway tractor dealership
Yeah, but they don't really have that many of those around here. And I did not want to go driving around on a battery that I knew was completely dead (I made the mistake of shutting it off at Sams and when I got back 10 minutes later, it wouldn't restart, had to get the cables out again and borrow some juice) lest it take the alternator with it.

Originally Posted by BearKiller
I just love a good battery discussion er...argument--debate--opinion-pole--whatever.

I will say this, if one is going to go the "consumer" route when buying a battery for a diesel truck, one needs to lose the Mustang/Nissan way of thinking and seek said battery at sources where they are common as dirt and not thought of as unusual at all.

The Group-31 and Group-30 are the standard battery of the world, being used in more applications than all the rest of the batteries made; the Group-30 and -31 are the same battery with different post location; the -31 is centered along the top, whereas the -30 has the posts offset to one side of the top; EITHER will work for our application.

Either can also be had in the problematic lead-post like what came standard in these trucks, or the much superior 3/8" threaded "stud" post denoted by the addition of "S" such as Group-31S.

Probably 95% of the farm-tractors, combines, and such came factory-equipped with them.

I have never in my life seen a larger truck with anything else and usually at least three, with four being more common.

Log-skidders, track-hoes, well-pump units, etc., etc. almost every single one came factory equipped with either a Group-30 or -31 battery(s).

For this reason, the best quality, best prices, and best knowledge about these batteries is going to be found at either a tractor dealership, a big-truck parts supply, heavy equipment dealer, or one of the numerous "farmer-Walmart"-type stores, such as TractorSupplyStore(TSC), Rural-King, or the like.

There is absolutely no difference in one of these batteries from the International-Harvester supply or the KenWorth dealer; farm-tractor, back-hoe, or semi-truck, the batteries are the same.

Also, regardless of over-exagerated "modern technology", where diesel batteries are concerned, SIZE DOES MATTER.

No matter if a wimpy little "NASA-approved", "fits in a Honda" battery has 1250CCA, it is physically too small to have the "bottom" required to crank a recalcitrant engine and keep on cranking several minutes later.

Sure, the whiz-kid battery may act like it is going to sling the pistons through the heads, but it won't do it for long before it does no more than click the solenoid.

Until something definitely better comes along, the Group-31 is still the battery of choice for diesel applications.
Well, like I said, I am going to go to double 8Ds soon. I have plans to take the factory bed off the truck and put a custom flat bed on that I have been building and one of the things that is already part of that design is a big old battery box right behind the driver's side door. Those are big AND heavy and 1400 CCA each. Price is reasonable at $149 as well. Those will let me run all my toys and then some. Plenty of bottom in those.

I wish there was somewhere decent at hand when I needed this. I thought about TSC, Rural King, etc but couldn't find any in the phone book so gave up on that. It was better to shell out more on the battery than to risk junking the alternator, cause the alt costs as much as the battery did.

As for the ring connectors (this battery has both) you are right, the rings are far better than the dumb posts. But I have avoided screwing with that until I do the battery box upgrade, as I will be running new cable for that anyway.

Also, I am going to put an electric air compressor where the battery currently is.

Originally Posted by Evil Ram
So I said "Screw it, Autozone always sucks anyway."

tell me about it about a 2years ago i walked into one with a bad timing chain in my hand from my 84 w250, without me saying anything the lady behind the counter said "im sorry we dont sell motorcycle chains" i didnt even bother i just said ok thanks and headed to Napa, oh yeah and i get my batteties from Napa too
Don't even get me started on them. I took my oil filter number in there to cross reference it, the guy tried to sell me some dinky little thing about the size of those little 6 oz cans of coke or whatever. You know, the half cans.

Anytime I have went to buy seals or a gasket for anything, I dont think I have ever come out of there with the right stuff and rarely is it ever in stock. I almost always wind up going to NAPA for seals and bearings and stuff like that now.

Originally Posted by stinkindiesel
There's a battery wholesaler that's open to the public in Corona, CA- Powerstride, I think... they have every size you could ever want. I got a Group 31 for my truck for free. Kind of. The were offering $3 to $5 for every core you bring in. I had almost 30 batteries from scrapped cars and golf carts; I loaded them into the bed, brought 'em down and got a new battery plus $22.
Gee, that would have been nice to know as I am only a few miles from there... ah well, poopy. Live and learn.
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Old Sep 10, 2010 | 06:20 PM
  #35  
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From: southern il.
all this talk about group 31's as the holy grail and then spend money trying to make horsepower, weight reduction is the cheapest horsepower you will ever make!! a set of 34/78 red top optimas will crank a cummins till the starter goes up in smoke and take 50 lbs off your overloaded front end over a set of 31's. as for the extra 50 bucks you spend buying them you will save that on the set of battery cables you don't have to replace because of the acid damage!!!
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Old Sep 10, 2010 | 08:12 PM
  #36  
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From: Ontario, CANADA
I can relate, today I took my mother in law's Cobalt to the GM dealer to get a recall looked after, the service manager was about 21 years old. I asked a few questions and it was obvious he didn't know much about cars.


Originally Posted by Evil Ram
So I said "Screw it, Autozone always sucks anyway."


tell me about it about a 2years ago i walked into one with a bad timing chain in my hand from my 84 w250, without me saying anything the lady behind the counter said "im sorry we dont sell motorcycle chains" i didnt even bother i just said ok thanks and headed to Napa, oh yeah and i get my batteties from Napa too
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Old Sep 10, 2010 | 08:27 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by 92GhostRyder
The big thing I hate about it is now I'm associated with these guys you have to "Drag by their ears to show them the part you need"
Let's see, latest Advanced Auto story...heh-heh-heh. Needed a hub seal, and know that there are two, one for a 3" seal journal on the 32 spline axle, and one for the 2.875" for the stud-and-cone 35 spline D70...so I call them, tell them it is a 1990 D250, with a 6-cyl turbo-diesel. The guy on the other end of the line then asks me is it an eight and three quarter or a nine and three quarter rear axle? I tell him it is neither, more like 10.5" and that it has hubs and not axle shaft seals...and I can just see the blank stare on the other end of the 'phone. Tells me those are the only two things listed so which one do you want? I tell him I think he's smoaking crack and bid him goodbye. On to Napa, where he confirms the correct one by the journal diameter. I think it was an O-Reiley who originally sold me the 2.875 seals when I needed 3-inchers and I jus' stuffed them in the tool box without any idear I'd ever find them useful.

Which is worse for you, when a guy grabs you by the nose or when a gal does it?
cheers,
Douglas
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