Well, I can move the plow back into the yard so it's out of the way, now. Nearing 62*F today here in what used to be "winter". No sense having it blocking the sidewalk, driveway anymore.

 

I did drive mine yesterday. Still a pig. I did get it up to 65mph. I lifted as the speed limit is 55 and I don't need a speeding ticket on my CDL. I was running it with the '98 Carter electric pump assembly in the tank hooked to the battery with an alligator clip. Plan is to put a toggle switch in the cab running it through a fuse, and relay on a circuit where it won't work without the key being on. I ran it with the electric pump disconnected. This pump on the Carter website claims 19.4lbs minimum. We checked it and it was dead on 18lbs. It is presently running through a Mr.Gasket regulator set at 5.5lbs. That's the max it will do.

True to form the engine died when I went to back it into the gate. I hit it with some starting fluid. It wouldn't start. When I shut it off inside it wouldn't restart. I quit for the day in order to get cooking for the Super Bowl watching.

Looking in my factory service manual (still have the factory style pump) I read factory fuel pressure is 3-5lbs. I don't have a gauge on it yet. However when you prime it you are supposed to put the lever in the up position after priming! Never knew that was a thing. Was this my problem all along?

I have new filter/separators here some where. I will change that. Also install a gauge. Hopefully it isn't the IP. I do have a spare in the shop. Who knows if it is any good?

 

Rug Tucker, perhaps you should start a separate thread to try and solve your problem? It's hard for me to scroll back through all the general posts to follow your issues, suggestions and attempted fixes.

When my lift pump failed I didn't realize it until pulling a big hill at speed. I was slowing down when I should have maintained/gained. The IP pulled enough fuel for normal driving but couldn't keep up with high demand, so it doesn't sound like that's your issue.

Seems like the pump lever position has to do with cam contact with the lobe or something??? Been too long ago since I dealt with that.

 

on the lever? Who knows. Hopefully home today in the daylight. Reading the FSM there's a bleeder after the filter. Never heard that before.

Placement of the lever, no reason given. I will do a thread with pics. Especially when I stuff a lit rag in the tank.....

 

Is there any reason the water temperature sending unit can't be at the thermostat housing and not at the back of the block?And be accurate. 90 5.9 cummins

 

IIRC, the cummins engines run hot at #6 cylinder, which is why the water bypass was developed. If you measure temperature where it's not getting hot, then you'll never know if you're running hot. Engineers (sometimes) do things for specific reasons as such.

 

I can see that, how much hotter does that area run compared to the rest of the block?the cd seems to run so cool anyway would it be an issue in that one area if the temp was running 190-195. On the hot days a 100 or so the gauge would move up a little but rarely went past half. just wondering

 

As long as you don't boil all the water out and melt the babbitt in the bearings it's not to hot.

 

Never has been that hot. So yesterday put in a new thermostat, flushed block and heater core then new antifreeze. Still have to fix the water temp gauge.It will go to normal temp and stay there till I start driving then starts pegging hot and bounce back. Come to a stop and it will show normal temp.So a wire problem to chase.High today 41 chance of snow. Might sit here and contemplate what to do about paint for a while.Ordered new carpet and will have lots of sound insulation to do.Got my new trim panel for the tailgate, repainted the black edges of the emblems got a few smaller issues to take care of till later spring or summer to paint it. My wife wants me to do it myself which I can do but the minor bodywork and sanding is hard on my injured shoulders. But I'll probably take one for truck.It's worth it.

 

Picked up a load of firewood at a friend's farm. Finally drove the truck to town for the first time with new calipers, hoses, lines and drilled & slotted rotors. What a difference! I can stop with confidence AND in a straight line now. Now I need to relearn how much pedal pressure so I don't keep throwing myself forward when I go to stop.

 

Atta boy.
I know that brake work has been on your to do list for a while.

 

Well I've been getting things ready to tear into Patches on my next days off...new clutch assembly and pull oil pan to do the rear main seal. Been putting this off for at least 2-3 years now and with the throw out bearing now grinding/squealing almost every time I use it I can't put it off any longer.

 

That's what usually motivates me, putting it off until it HAS to be done. And then I only finish it enough to use/work instead of the way it should really be finished off...

 

IIRC, you shouldn't have to pull the oil pan to replace the rear seal

 

Bought some cheapy plastic bird spikes and tie-wrapped them to the wiring of the grid heater relays to keep a pair of nuisance wrens from nesting under the hood!