What did you do to your Gen 1 today?
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06-08-2018, 07:30 AM
#6498
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06-08-2018, 08:43 AM
#6499
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I didn’t get to talk to the owner... I sat and had a sandwich and a Dr Pepper just hoping they would come out so I could peek under the hood. I’m thinking of making a similar bumper. It looks tough and from the time era.
So far, 7k miles. Already did one oil change, and I’ll be due for another as soon as I get there. I need to do a full PM on her, change the trans fluid, and as give her a full detail job. She’s going to need new rubber too. I’ve done too many burnouts and after towing fairly heavy, they’re almost down to the wear bars. About 20k miles out of the RBP Repulsor 315/75R16’s. I’m looking into reviews of other brands to see if there’s anything a little longer lasting. Still, not bad for an MT tire though.
If you're running synthetic, you can go further than 7k on a change. I run the Blue Bottle T-4 synthetic from Rotella. I change it once a year, or every 10 to 12k. It's pretty clean when I dump it.
OTR haulers have long mileage spans between oil changes.
Considering you're doing all this highway travel, the moisture isn't building up in the crankcase from stop and go traffic, and the oil should be sparkling clean even after 10k. My wife's honda I run the same.. She drives 65 miles a day on it, and even after 15,000 miles, it's remarkably clean.
If you're concerned, pull a sample from the oil at 10 or whatever number you think you'd like to extend it to, then send that sample to be analyzed. Not very expensive to do. Me? I'm content with my 12,000 mile oil changes... or once a year.
06-08-2018, 08:44 AM
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nonrev (06-08-2018)
06-08-2018, 03:49 PM
#6501
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If you're running synthetic, you can go further than 7k on a change. I run the Blue Bottle T-4 synthetic from Rotella. I change it once a year, or every 10 to 12k. It's pretty clean when I dump it.
OTR haulers have long mileage spans between oil changes.
Considering you're doing all this highway travel, the moisture isn't building up in the crankcase from stop and go traffic, and the oil should be sparkling clean even after 10k. My wife's honda I run the same.. She drives 65 miles a day on it, and even after 15,000 miles, it's remarkably clean.
If you're concerned, pull a sample from the oil at 10 or whatever number you think you'd like to extend it to, then send that sample to be analyzed. Not very expensive to do. Me? I'm content with my 12,000 mile oil changes... or once a year.
OTR haulers have long mileage spans between oil changes.
Considering you're doing all this highway travel, the moisture isn't building up in the crankcase from stop and go traffic, and the oil should be sparkling clean even after 10k. My wife's honda I run the same.. She drives 65 miles a day on it, and even after 15,000 miles, it's remarkably clean.
If you're concerned, pull a sample from the oil at 10 or whatever number you think you'd like to extend it to, then send that sample to be analyzed. Not very expensive to do. Me? I'm content with my 12,000 mile oil changes... or once a year.
I did 10K km's on my Rotella T6 5w40 over the winter and it was still nice and clean on the dipstick when I drained it out to run the Rotella T4 15W40 for the summer. I know I could run the T6 year round but I bought a couple 5gal pails of the T4 when I t was on sale, so have to use it up eventually.
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06-10-2018, 10:29 AM
#6503
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06-10-2018, 10:58 AM
#6504
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That tailgate cover is a '92 and '93 loaded LE thing only.
06-10-2018, 02:20 PM
#6505
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My leaky cooling system has turned into a shot water pump and rad. 
Was quoted $775 for the only radiator I can get in time. 
New plan. Mothball the W250. Mobilize the D250. Will take a little more labour, but no parts to buy.
Spent yesterday hauling out those parts. (Murphy waited till I had them installed in other projects
)
Should know pretty soon if swapping in a D60FF is plug & play. I hope it is. It has a lockright
Was quoted $775 for the only radiator I can get in time. New plan. Mothball the W250. Mobilize the D250. Will take a little more labour, but no parts to buy.
Spent yesterday hauling out those parts. (Murphy waited till I had them installed in other projects
)Should know pretty soon if swapping in a D60FF is plug & play. I hope it is. It has a lockright
06-10-2018, 10:51 PM
#6506
Registered User
I have so much fun on my weekends I'm surprised that the neighbors don't stop by to join in!
So, how do you break those little buggers loose? I have to get a real breaker bar since that HF piece of something just bends. I have a real long piece of pipe but it's hard to get traction on the gravel. How much can you safely heat the cast "C"?
So, how do you break those little buggers loose? I have to get a real breaker bar since that HF piece of something just bends. I have a real long piece of pipe but it's hard to get traction on the gravel. How much can you safely heat the cast "C"?
06-10-2018, 11:13 PM
#6507
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3/4" breaker bar and a pipe to extend it. Once it breaks loose, prepare yourself to release pressure, otherwise you'll go flying..
I didn't need heat. Threads were sparkling clean when I pulled the cone out.
I didn't need heat. Threads were sparkling clean when I pulled the cone out.
06-10-2018, 11:21 PM
#6508
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What kind of grease do you pack the bearing and bushing with? I tend to use StaLube Hi-Temp wheel bearing grease on everything! Then some sort of red chassis grease for everything with a zerk.
06-11-2018, 09:15 AM
#6509
Administrator
Yup, I used a long 3/4" breaker bar with about 8 feet of leverage from 1 1/2" 1/4" thick square tubing, for around 10' of leverage. Tman is right, watch your knuckles, when mine broke loose, they then threaded out by hand. IIRC, the king pins are factory torqued to around 900 foot pounds...Msrk
06-11-2018, 09:20 AM
#6510
Registered User
I cut a hole in a flat 3X6" 1/4"thick piece of iron with a hole saw and welded it to the cone. after it cooled down it only took a light tap with a 5# hammed to break it loose.
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thrashingcows (06-11-2018)