What did you do to your Gen 1 today?
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Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 293
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From: Utah
The truck does not hardly smoke at all no matter what I do. If I floor it from a stop it maybe puts out a very light haze. It puts out a very light haze on startup too. I tried flooring it in neutral very briefly to see if it would smoke that way. To my delight it hardly smoked any more.
I will definitely get that 366 spring as soon as I get paid next along with gauges. I was going to order the factory service manual from Genos today. I guess if the spring is only a few bucks I’ll get it today too.
My goal for this truck is to be able to tow with it in this land of hills that I live in and get 20mpg unloaded. My last tank was only 12.46, but if I roughly calculate it for the 20% that my speedometer is off at the moment then it would come out to14.95. I still am not happy with that and I’m going to fix my speedometer when I get my rear output seal replaced on the transfer case.
Since I have an automatic do I need a transmission temperature gauge or is that not so important? I know with a manual it isn’t nearly as important, but I thought autos needed it. I do plan to go back to a manual because that is what I prefer, but I don’t want to toast this one too quickly either. I’m trying to save up for a 5 speed.
I will definitely get that 366 spring as soon as I get paid next along with gauges. I was going to order the factory service manual from Genos today. I guess if the spring is only a few bucks I’ll get it today too.
My goal for this truck is to be able to tow with it in this land of hills that I live in and get 20mpg unloaded. My last tank was only 12.46, but if I roughly calculate it for the 20% that my speedometer is off at the moment then it would come out to14.95. I still am not happy with that and I’m going to fix my speedometer when I get my rear output seal replaced on the transfer case.
Since I have an automatic do I need a transmission temperature gauge or is that not so important? I know with a manual it isn’t nearly as important, but I thought autos needed it. I do plan to go back to a manual because that is what I prefer, but I don’t want to toast this one too quickly either. I’m trying to save up for a 5 speed.
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Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Central KY
Since you are towing on hills I'd recommend a trans temp gauge. Autos can heat up quick under those conditions especially in OD - although with a lockup TC that might not happen as easily? Someone correct me.
The gauge wouldn't be wasted. If you eventually swap out the auto for a manual you can move the gauge to measure engine oil or coolant temp or rear end etc.
The gauge wouldn't be wasted. If you eventually swap out the auto for a manual you can move the gauge to measure engine oil or coolant temp or rear end etc.
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From: Land of the Toxic Avenger
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Joined: Dec 2010
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From: Land of the Toxic Avenger
Definitely a transmission gauge. I have mine separate than my column gauges, as it's not something I look at unless the need arises, such as plowing, or towing. The best thing we can do for out r46 or 518 transmissions is to never let them idle in park. Always in neutral.
Not sure of the r47 transmissions pump fluid in park or not. Mine does not, and I can literally watch the gauge fly up or down if it's in park or neutral. The 518 does not pump /circulate fluid in park, so it won't cool down unless it's in gear or neutral. When I have it rebuilt, that will be corrected.
Thanks AJ
Not sure of the r47 transmissions pump fluid in park or not. Mine does not, and I can literally watch the gauge fly up or down if it's in park or neutral. The 518 does not pump /circulate fluid in park, so it won't cool down unless it's in gear or neutral. When I have it rebuilt, that will be corrected.
Thanks AJ
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Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 293
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From: Utah
Definitely a transmission gauge. I have mine separate than my column gauges, as it's not something I look at unless the need arises, such as plowing, or towing. The best thing we can do for out r46 or 518 transmissions is to never let them idle in park. Always in neutral.
Not sure of the r47 transmissions pump fluid in park or not. Mine does not, and I can literally watch the gauge fly up or down if it's in park or neutral. The 518 does not pump /circulate fluid in park, so it won't cool down unless it's in gear or neutral. When I have it rebuilt, that will be corrected.
Thanks AJ
Not sure of the r47 transmissions pump fluid in park or not. Mine does not, and I can literally watch the gauge fly up or down if it's in park or neutral. The 518 does not pump /circulate fluid in park, so it won't cool down unless it's in gear or neutral. When I have it rebuilt, that will be corrected.
Thanks AJ
The 47rh does NOT circulate in park without being customized. The truck was originally a Getrag (swapped out by the previous owner unfortunately) so the only cooler it has is an under bed auxiliary cooler with a fan. The fan is always going unless I turn the switch to turn it off. I always leave it on as I forgot to turn it on a couple times. Luckily those were just short trips.I really hope I’m not stuck with this transmission for long as it is rather annoying how it shifts. It shifts up fine, but getting it to downshift is sometimes impossible. It seemed to get better when I installed the 4” exhaust, but it still doesn’t shift as I’d like. It is also annoying to have switches. The other thing I don’t like is that with the TC locked it is much harder to panic stop. I know that there is a compushift unit that does all that, but I don’t feel like spending $350 on a transmission I just want to get rid of. The truck also does not have a TPS or even the ECM for an auto. I again don’t care to fix it as it works for now. It’s annoying, but I don’t have the money to fix it correctly. It would be very expensive as I need the truck and can’t go a long time fixing it myself so I would have to have a transmission shop fix it all. If the auto shifted like it should and I didn’t have to mess with switches then I would probably just leave it. It is a miracle the thing still works at all as the PO had a trans line get partially cut by his feuding neighbor which they then blew completely and he transmission nearly ran out of fluid and got pretty hot. I had to have all the seals replaced when I got the truck, because it leaked so bad from getting hot that it ran out of fluid after every time I drove it. I’m sure it could use a rebuild, but I’d again rather swap to a 5 speed. Just wasn’t meant to be in this truck. It would also again be too expensive to make it meant to be.
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Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Orange County, California
It's been quite a while since I spent some time on the forums.
I changed the serpentine belt and tensioner on Friday. I've only put about 1200 miles on the motor since the rebuild. I'm thinking I'll check the valve lash and make any necessary adjustments. I don't foresee any of them being too far off from where I set them initially. Maybe run them at .008" and .018" this time.
I changed the serpentine belt and tensioner on Friday. I've only put about 1200 miles on the motor since the rebuild. I'm thinking I'll check the valve lash and make any necessary adjustments. I don't foresee any of them being too far off from where I set them initially. Maybe run them at .008" and .018" this time.
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Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Commerce, OK
It's been quite a while since I spent some time on the forums.
I changed the serpentine belt and tensioner on Friday. I've only put about 1200 miles on the motor since the rebuild. I'm thinking I'll check the valve lash and make any necessary adjustments. I don't foresee any of them being too far off from where I set them initially. Maybe run them at .008" and .018" this time.
I changed the serpentine belt and tensioner on Friday. I've only put about 1200 miles on the motor since the rebuild. I'm thinking I'll check the valve lash and make any necessary adjustments. I don't foresee any of them being too far off from where I set them initially. Maybe run them at .008" and .018" this time.
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From: Riverside, CA
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From: Land of the Toxic Avenger
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