Say it isn't so, Joe. There seems to be a trend, soon to be a tsunami or maybe just a couple more. My plan is working perfectly, BWAAAAAAAAAA...Mark Edit: I predict that in 2 years, you won't be able to toss the old antifreeze because it will look just like the new stuff and you won't see any crud in the radiator. I ran the same antifreeze in my Fairlane for 20 years and when I traded it, it was still in there...

 

Bwaaaaaaaaas

 

There is now a craft distillery in Harrisburg. I haven't tried it yet but it is on my way home from work. Maybe NJTman will come have a drink with me!

 

I walked out and put the new insurance card in the folder in the glove box. Otherwise I'm under the weather. My ears are stopped up and I feel like my head is in a bucket. Maybe I need to go for a drive to blow the wax out.

 

The wife would be mad at me for drinking and driving 2.5 hours home... otherwise, I would be there ...

 

Hey Edwin,

I had no idea you played guitar !

 

replaced the blown out PS lines last night. Was a fairly easy job overall. Hoping I bled the system properly. Didn't take it for a test drive yet, so will be keeping an eye on it once I have it out again. Also the FSM really makes life easier once I found where the procedure for bleeding the PS system was.

 

Oh I also "found" the FSS on the truck. One of those I knew academically where it was but not physically. So I took an academic guess and pulled a wire off and the truck shut down. I see what people mean about the connections being sketchy on the FSS.

 

What's the name of this new establishment?

 

Take a train!

 

Over the last few weeks I had noticed the exhaust sound on Patches changing. Then last week it really started getting loud....could here the turbo catching it's breath on each shift so figured I must have a break/hole in the system some where.

Slid under the truck....-15*C on cold rocks is pretty sweet....and found that it had cracked at the 24" piece of 3" flex pipe I have in the system. Broke right off at the bad clamp, so removed the band clamp, excised the broken piece and there was just enough band clamp to seal it back up. Nice and quiet again....for now.

I'm running old exhaust pieces....but it's been holding up pretty well over the last 7 years, so as my Father was fond of saying....."You don't throw away gold..." Eventually I will have to break down and buy a 4" system.....

 

Well today, I replaced both my electronic HD flashers with 2 new HD LED non polarized with ground type flasher #
EF32RLNP



That being said:


All LED's in their respective sockets and this is what happens.


Headlamps and parking lights in the OFF position: Flashers, and turn signals work as normal... just a whole lot brighter than before.


Headlamps and parking lights in the "ON" position: Turn signals and flashers no longer flash at front or rear of vehicle. Clicking noise still happening at flashers, just no response at front or rear. Push the headlamp switch in and turn off the runners and HL's, and all works as normal..


UGH....


I guess i have to go resistors in the loop somewhere. I put a call EMAIL into the manufacturer of the flashers, and we'll see what they have to say.

 

Stupid question... But I assume it's dependant on whether or not the parking lights are on? You only mentioned scenarios with the headlights and parking lights either both on, or both off (unless I misunderstood). But, if it always happens with the park lights on, I'm curious if maybe a bulb is installed incorrectly, or if you have an 1156 in an 1157 socket type scenario, where the bulb is shorting the 2 power tabs (one is for park light, one is for turn). I remember you mentioning earlier about it started happening after you put the final bulb in, have you tried removing a different bulb and see what happens? Or move the suspect bulb to a different socket? The fact that the flasher is clicking, is what makes me think one of these might be the issue. Usually with LED bulbs, they'll either blink super fast, or stick on.

I know these are basic elementary ideas... But sometimes you just need to hear (read) someone say it for it to click... No insults intended.

If it is in fact a resistance issue, the resistors are relatively cheap and easy to install.

 

Stupid question ? NAH ! that's more along the lines of "How can I get my truck to roll more coal than my buddies coal rolling ferd... ? "

Bulbs are all 1157 style, so no really easy answer there for me. I would hope I could tell the difference between a two pole socket / bulb combination than a single.

Today, I did several tasks. I removed one of the LED bulbs at the front turn signal, and replaced it with a conventional 1157 bulb. All works as it should, headlamps / parking lights or not. All functions properly.

Put the LED back in, and back to the issue of no blinkers / flashers on when the headlamp switch is on.

According to the fella at CEC industries, because of this scenario, he suggested that the flashers are not responding to the LED's in the truck with all LED's and no standard bulbs in there He said that I need to install a resistor in each circuit (one left and one right he guessed and I'll test) to "trick the flasher" into believing that there is a standard bulb in there, even though these LED flashers with the grounds are supposed to detect the low milliamp values the LED bulbs have vs. standard bulbs. I'm going to figure out which circuit today by testing.

Why doesn't my truck read the lower valued LED' bulbs, with no standard bulb present in the circuit ? With the new LED sensitive flasher ? He doesn't know, and neither do I. Without looking at a schematic of the wiring of the truck, or having the truck in front of him to figure it all out, he can only attribute this to the way the truck is wired. I attribute it to Chrysler's cheapo wiring harness / system design, but who am I to blame anyone ?

My anxiety, which was dismissed after talking to him, was that if I put resistors in there, would they damage the new LED Flasher ? No, because they're designed with the same higher limit that the other OEM flashers have. No fire issue, damaging the new flasher issue is at hand here.

I'll post my findings at a later date.

 

Could this be related to how the lights get grounded? I remember J martin mentioning it in the past.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...8/#post3281230