Tried hooking up the KSB when I fired the truck up this morning before heading home from work...it was about 5*C. And now the idle jumps up as it is supposed to, compared to it dropping slightly when I had the M/H timing spacer installed.

 

Thanks, TC, for posting that info up. That piece of info there tells me then it's nothing I did when I reinstalled my VE, thinking I retarded the timing. It's that M&H spacer just doing its thing.

Did you resolve that noise issue? You win the battle?

 

Didn't really do anything to my truck today, just thought I'd post up to say I helped a fellow truck driver today. Looked like a delivery guy, driving a box cab truck, about the size of a UPS truck. He and his partner were stranded right at the pump at the gas station. When I pulled up they were grinding away at that ignition, but it wouldn't start. I asked them if they pulled up to the pump on empty. They said yes. Diesel, I ask? They say yes. I said your lines are full of air. You'll never start it. You got to prime it. They look at me with the " HUH?" look.
I look around, found the lift pump with a priming button on top of it. There you go, I say. Start pushing up and down on it till it can't push no more. Truck started, and off they went. Gas pumps no longer backed up. Felt good. Felt like I saved the day.

 

Got my motor mounts and trans mounts from RockAuto in the mail.
Was thinking of a way to lift the motor besides a block of wood under the balancer as my engine hoist cylinder is no bueno and then I realized I drive a 40,000 pound forklift at work...

 

Figured you appreciate that tidbit of info....

No I still have the/a noise, though the tone has changed, and the RPM at which it seems to start up is very erratic now.

I can be driving up the long hill to the area I live in, 3rd gear the whole way up, doing about 55km/h and spinning about 1900rpm and the noise will come in like a series of waves, get loud then quiet and then fade off to then come back super loud for a few seconds etc.

I plan on swapping in a known decent set of used injectors and see what happens. if that does not change things then I will re-seal my spare IP and toss that in. After that I have exhausted most of the potential culprits, only other thing I have come across in my reading is the pivots on the rocker stands....might try swapping them off my spare head. If still noisy I may have to admit that it could be a wrist pin....

 

Can't remember if you've already tried this, but have you tried pulling off that fluid damper and placing you stock one back in? Easy enough to do, but hopefully you hung onto that factory damper.
Another inexpensive item to do, is get an oil analysis done. I use Blackstone Labs. Call them up and ask for a case of test kits, they are free and they will send you a 4 pack. The cost per test is $28 USD. It takes about a week, and they'll tell you everything what's in that oil. Granted, your oil is new, but if you got some metal damage going on, it'll show.

Have you, in your research, read anything about resulting factors that come from the oil squirters popping out? I'm only going from what I've read, but I believe the factory ones are plastic. They can pop out. Someone on this site, when I was doing my research on the thrust bearing failure, found one in his oil pan. He, too, was chasing down a noise. Ended up being his thrust bearing, but also found an oil squirters in the pan, along with the bearing tab. I'm throwing that out there, only because when you added the Lucas it made things worse, then change(some) came about when you switched oil.

 

I pulled the side molding off before it all fell off (stupid plastic clips!)and got lost or hit a car on the free way.
What a bunch of crud it had under it.

 

Just run a 3" screw through and you never have to worry again.....

 

Ya know I kinda like the looks without it. The body lines stand out better.

 

What would look really good, Mark, is to hammer in a #16 duplex nail in it. It's got that special head so you can easily remove it when needed, LOL!

 

If you drive down to SoCal I could weld it on for ya. I got a nearly new Flux Core wire welder that really works good on that stuff. Harbor Fright special.

Edwin

 

Hammer tap lead anchor. It will never come off again.

I've got a bin with about 400 or so in it. Gladly send you a few.

 

So, today, I'm up and out the door at 6 am, get to the truck and go to start it, and all I hear is ....


"Thunk"....

Turned the key off, and tried it again. This time, smoke came out of the hood for a brief second, and I turned the key off again. Popped the hood, found nothing burned, other than that darn fuse that kept popping intermittently. Put another fuse in, turned the key and NOTHING.

No engine movement at all. Must be the starter....

Go to do a couple estimates, and when I get back I dig into it. I disconnnect the battery cable, remove the cables from the starter, clean up all the green mess, and put it back together without the 12 ga lead wire from the main harness. Jumper across the terminal from the hot cable to the solenoid, and she fires right over.


Okay.... bad ignition switch or lock cylinder. Lock cylinder has felt kinda funny lately, so I assume the chinese replacement I put in a few years back crapped out. Ordered a new ignition switch and lock cyl from Dodge, and I guess I can swap them out next week.

Oh well. Another day in paradise...

 

I was researching locks and ignition switches yesterday. I'll prolly have to do that soon. I wonder if that could be the problem with my Tach not working. The Pyro is flaky also. Sometimes my turn signal is really slow like the voltage is very low. Turning the key off and on usually fixes it.

Maybe I can cut it off with my plasma cutter and weld a new one on.

Edwin

 

You're just dying to use that stuff, aren't you, Edwin? Have you bought some coupons to practice your welds? Only welding I do comes with a name brand of JB. I'm pretty good with that epoxy stuff, LOL.
I bought my first and only welder years ago, just to do small fix it stuff in my property. I needed one that was 120, and could easily switch over to 220 for the thicker stuff. Our apprenticeship school had a local contest, and welding was one of the competitions. Our welding supplier Harris Gas, sponsored the welding competition and loaned the school 12 Brand new Miller Passports. After the event was over, the store manager of Harris Gas offered our school the welders at his cost of $800, since he now couldn't sell them as new. Typically that is almost a $2K machine, back in 2004. Our apprenticeship committee approved to buy 6 only, so I ended up buying one. Couldn't pass up on the deal.
If you have never seen or heard of a Miller Passport, it's a welder in a briefcase. Comes with a spool of wire, auto feed controls, and runs off of a cylinder of CO2, same size cylinder as the paint ball guns have. All this is self contained in this briefcase.
It'll allow up to 20 minutes of straight, continuous welding, and at the 220 setting(built in inverter, so I can swap back and forth from 120 to 220V) it can do up to 3/8" steel, but only for like 15 minutes(co2 tank runs out). It can be set up as a stationary welder also, piped into tanked gas. That's how we set up the six we bought for the school. All wire speed controls, temp controls, etc., are all set up in this briefcase.

Owned that thing since 2004. Used it one time, LOL. Still looks brand new.