It seems I have a small fuel leak on the back of my injection pump, somewhere where all the fuel lines go to the injectors, I checked as many of the lines as possible to see if they were loose, but the ones i can get to seem tight,
IS there a trick to get to all of them, or a special tool?
ANy other ideas as to where they are leaking?


Also what gaskets are needed to install the 3200 spring,
Does cummins sell a complete seal kit for the pump,

Hopefully someone has part numbers.

Thanks

 

the complete seal kit is ~ $18.00, there should be a number on the 'sticky' info page (the kit I bought last week is abbreviated on my invoice DGK 212 OR 1...) VE 4/6 and the box / parts are at another site.

The leak could be from a leaky line, I had one of those, or the rear distributor plate o-ring (this was a $70 repair at shop, with pump off)

I made a special tool for lines from a deep 17 mm socket and cut it out like a flange wrench and up the side for clearance of lines. (this was ez using a wire EDM, not your common shop tool...) could be done with a friction cutoff saw. There are also some available from Snap-on / matco

 

Can you post a picture of the 17mm socket, when you get a chance,
I looked at snap on for ideas, but can't find them..
Is it possible to replace that oring with the pump on the truck?

 

The socket he modified probably looks like an O2 sensor socket with a horizontal groove also.

 

Ok, i think i get the picture now, so the groove is more L shaped then?

 

I used a flange wrench type socket. It's a flat affair but real short with a 3/8 square hole to put a long extension in.

No. You cannot replace the o-ring on the truck. As soon as you pull the end off the insides of the pump fall out. You have to hold the pump body vertical while you put the rollers in and then put the rollers in.

It isn't that difficult a job but you need to make sure everything is in the proper position before you tighten things up.

Edwin

 

actually, I don't have a pic, but will work on getting one.

envision a deep socket, with socket end modified to look like a flange wrench (opening big enough to fit over a fuel line,)

then everything else cut away EXCEPT for a ~ 1/2" web remaining that attaches the wrench end to the driver end (which is not modified, and ~ 1/2" long) Same type of scenario as a distributor offset wrench. I hear the "official" ones have a super deep socket (~ 4"deep). You could do something similar with a welder and a sacrificial wrench and / or socket. Last week we built some offset sockets to torque the cylinder studs on a Franklin Aircraft engine, similar issue, getting center of Torque Wrench over the nut with 8" of fins in the way between the nut and wrench. just create a "c" shape for the socket.

 

Clean everything up real well and check to make sure the leak is not dripping down on the pump head from the AFC vent tube. It would suck to reseal the whole pump if all you really needed to do was pull the pump top and replace the fuel pin o-rings.

 

I finally found a picture of the socket you are talking about, If anyone else needs to see it

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....store&tool=all