Little update. I completely roasted my tranny over the weekend, so the truck is parked untill I can swing a replacement The good news is, I picked up a shutdown solenoid for 45 clams and it showed up in the mail today Just using what brackets were already on the turbo and what I had laying around, I mocked up the solenoid just to see how it would work. This thing is one rugged piece. It actually bends the bracket when pulling. My plan now is to shorten the existing spring so it essentially acts as a stop for my starting point and retain my weaker spring pulling against that one for the drive pressure reference. When engaged, the solenoid will overcome both springs and, voila, e-brake! Gonna run it off a relay, kind of like the 1st gen headlight fix, and have a switch on the shifter. Anyhoo, pic and video:

 

How'd u break the trans??

BTW that thing is violent, don't you think? It looks like it will make the tires lock up , how was it at slowing down the truck?

 

Well, I lost 3rd gear and have been driving it 2-4-5 for a few weeks cause I need the dern thing for work. Saturday after work I see oil under the tranny...yeah, that's 22/quart castrol syntorque running down the drive....anyway, that lame-**** aluminum extention on the 4500 is cracked on the bottom! Sooo, I haven't driven it with this setup, but, having a buddy run a pull cable, yes it will bark the tires in 2nd gear from about 3500rpms

 

Could it have been the 3rd gear power brake's to show off I enjoyed it.

 

Ahhh so now we get the real story hahahahaha.

 

at least tell me you have it on video, even if ur too ashamed to admit it.

I've got a few floating around of my first truck, tryin to blow the already shot motor... even with no oil the L6 spun 4grand.

 

Yeah yeah, ya caught meThanks Ryan It's hard to beat into my head that just because my clutch can, doesn't mean the rest of my truck can You know, I don't have any burnout videos, but I will be getting new tires when the tranny goes in I played around a little more with the spring setup last night and it appears I can maintain the original tension that was working well to control drive pressure and have the solenoid spring be the 'return to start' point. Hit the button, into e-brake. Let off the button, back to start point Though there have been folks going to greater lengths than I to try and avoid the barking issue, I have little to no barking with this setup, and that is with a very small start point. In fact, the only time I have any bark at all is when I shut the engine down. It's spinning that fast at an idle that when the engine stops it'll surge slightly. Sounds cool and I don't think it'll hurt anything.

 

What vehicle did the solenoid go to ?
Couldn't get the vid to load... How much travel does it have?

 

Yeah my h1c chirps when i shutdown the motor... i've been told its my belt but when i hit the shutdown lever, with my head right up in the engine bay its definitely coming from the passenger side.

I took another look at the turbo today after work. I think i'm going with the wastegate route.

Now, thinking about it, i have a question. What psi does your lever start moving the spring??

I figure that i'll hold it in the start position i set-up, and when the boost reaches 35psi it'll start opening via wastegate action. I also understand that it will want to open on its own with the drive pressure.
Do you think i'll have a problem with over boost/reving the turbo with this kind of set-up?

 

The solenoid is a p-pump shut down solenoid. It has enough travel to accomodate the max range of the vgt.

With my hokey spring setup, it appears to begine opening around 40psi of drive pressure which is around 30psi of boost. By the time I hit 40psi boost, drive is about 42-45psi.

All I can say to the overboost question is, run a drive pressure gauge. With a housing capable of being so small, it is entirely possible to overspeed things while working the bugs out. Over on comp-d, I was told that with stock gasket and bolts, 110-125psi drive pressure is about the danger zone. I've seen 60+ but not much more.

 

Thats what i like to hear, i'm sure i didn't come close to that number. Thanks

 

Well, I read it on the inter-nets, so it must be true I would like to swap the hx35 back on just to see how it reacts to the same tuning. The d/p gauge seems to be a pretty good tuning aid.

 

Yeah, i'm sure it helps alot having all 3 gauges.