I like the thoughts of controlling this with automatic funtions, be it boost, or drive pressure, but I am going a different route. I removed the stepper motor from mine and installed a "normal" 12v dc motor. I can control the open or close position manually via switch in the cab. I've installed limit switches as to not travel too far, or to set them in a position that suits my needs. Full travel from open to close is a touch over two seconds.

 

Stu, i have an HE351CW and i used the adapter that came with the turbo and my oil like matched up perfectly. The drain tube was also the same, i just needed a new gasket

Mieser i don't think a BOV works on a diesel, there is no throttle plate to create back pressure in the intake system. Once fuel is cut it evacuates all the boost in the next few strokes. I mentioned something about a BOV before, when i was thinking about an Over Boost Valve, which wouldn't let me hit 50psi in a split second and basically loose the exhaust waste gate and move it to the intake side. I think that would also cause me to Billow clouds of black smoke once it kicked in...

Trendz; i was talking to a few different mechanics at work and we sorta came up with some ideas. Everyone agreed that it would have to be controlled off the throttle, and that there could be a secondary control that would monitor drive pressure and another that would monitor exhaust pressure and a third that would monitor boost. Basically i'd have to make a small computer to control it the way i'd like. It would automatically make adjustments to keep boost under 40psi and egts under 1200, basically like a ford transmission how the rpms of the motor stay the same (in my case boost and egts) yet you still accelerate.
Since it has such small and big housing abilities, it would light quickly and stay cool by opening up slowly as boost and drive pressure increase. maybe steal fords oil controlled solenoid.... again these are only assumptions, not based on any REAL knowledge of how these variable turbos work.

 

Drain and feed lines bolt up like they grew there-no mods necessary Just took the high pressure adapter off the hx35 and screwed it into the he351vgt--done deal

 

Reason I asked about the oil line is this

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/WGMT-...Q5fAccessories

On further inspection it looks like thats for a ricer setup?

I think the easiest way to set it up is with a W/G actuator and a electronic solenoid for the E/B, say something like this

http://www.solenoidcity.com/solenoid...s-29-200p1.htm

Stu

 

Got all my goodies on the way to do what papecat did, but with a vgt.

P1000478.jpg?t=1272155946

Stu

 

I sort of agree, but I think if someone were to build a controller, it would only need two inputs, turbine shaft speed and pre turbine pressure.(this is assuming no brake capabilities) You always want the highest achievable turbine speed (until overspeed) with a balance of backpressure. If the controller monitored these two inputs, it would not matter what throttle position was. It would close the housing until it found max shaft rpm unless the backpressure threshhold was exceeded.

 

A BOV will work on a diesel. You just have to control it a little different.

A diesel can overpressure the intake tract once you chop off the throttle. The turbine is still spinning and can cause more airflow than the motor can use....this is basically what 'turbo bark' is. The intake air path has stalled.....this causes the compressor wheel to slow down rapidly or even stall completely.

 

Perhaps a solenoid valve with a switch in the idle position. You can use boost through the solenoid to pop the BOV open, then it will close on its own when boost drops off.

 

Its for a custom application, so you can make your self a header and drain tube. doesn't matter what you hook it up to, a 6.5 for all the flange cares.

 

I like this idea... how would you go about measuring turbine shaft speed?? i think 100k rpm is a little much for most home made computers. Also how would you go about measuring pre-turbine pressure?

check out my thread https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...t266925p2.html

i'm going to put up a few videos sunday from under the hood to the drivers seat.

 

Errr ya. What I was refering too was the oil feed adaptor. I understand what the flange is for. Thats why I asked how he hooked up his oil feed and drain.

Stu

Edit: NM now I get the oil RETURN....

 

Ok I am pretty sure I am going this route and have a few questions, mostly trying to go a different and cheaper route for vane control. Need to make sure the cylinders I am looking at will have enough stroke and power to move the vanes under boost. Also if you can tell me the length of your lever so I know what to use as my reference.
1. How much force does it take to move the lever, for the vanes, under boost?
2. How far does the lever move to go from exhaust brake to wide open?
3. With it setup to be usable (9cm-18cm) how much does it move?
4. Have any of you got the exhaust brake feature to work? If so tell me how you did it, and maybe even some pics of it working.
Thanks,
Joe

 

Well, I've been unable to find the time to work on my controller as of late, but.....I found an unused throttle return spring from another job. The extension arm on my turbo (welded there when I got it) was about 2'' long with a hole about 1/4'' from the end. Ran spring from that hole to one of the clamps on the air filter tube (2nd gen remember). There's enough tension to close the housing down to just before e-barake mode...maybe 7-8 cm. Spool is wicked and the housing opens via drive pressure overriding spring pressure. I'm keeping it under 40psi/1/2 throttle as I have no drive pressure gauge yet, but the truck feels much snappier and is virtually smoke free at 38psi, where it was nearly a dark cloud with the hx at that point.I will be wrenching some this weekend, so I'll get the pics I promised and try to snap a video of the actuator lever travel range. Couple things to note after living with the turbo for a week:
1-My compressor housing oil seal leaks and Holset doesn't make parts for these things yet---I'm a runaway/windowed block waiting to happen---keep an eye on these things. The silence ring makes it hard to see in there, but the compressor housing is very easy to remove.
2-This turbo really changes the manners of the truck. I never realized just how 'signature' the sound of a straight piped 12v was. Yeah, you still get looks in the parking lot, but it's just not the same, dang it!

Look for updates and pics this weekend

 

any update on this?

 

Delays delays....sorry for lack of updates. I have a controller now, but no time to install it I do have gauges now and it has produced some interesting results. I almost want to slap the hx35 back on for comparison numbers, as I've never had a drive pressure guage before. I can see upwards of 20psi dp for 11psi of boost at my current setting, but once it lights (a bit over 15psi) it's darn near 1:1 and smoke free I do have a couple small boost leaks to tend to, so the numbers aren't quite accurate. This thing will be evil once dialed in. Got some gauge videos I'm trying to upload from my phone...pretty neat. I had to get glowshift gauges due to lack of funds, but based on my auto meter and isspro experience, they're definitely in the ballpark for what I do. And the lame-**** color change feature is actually kinda cool....