G1625S

Not sure on the solenoid. He uses a ford window switch to control it, so some kid of stepper motor I guess. I plan to use something like a p-pump shutdown solenoid for e-brake activation. I'll have an arming switch on the shifter and a micro switch on the throttle so it can only come on under zero throttle.

Mieser

I've been thinking about this lately too. For the money the VGT turbo looks like a good option.

As far as control goes, do you have a link to the drive pressure VGT on compD?

I found this today. it looks like a VERY simple way to control the vanes buy using a spring and internal drive pressure on the vanes. There is also a small stop for adjusting the starting position.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=creCX5biGTw

JustRamIt91

i would sway away from the spring, looks like you could just use a wastegate to controll the veins, especially with the limited amount of movement you would need(just like a waste gate).

Just a though, ...and does anybody know the exhaust house size(limits) on the VGT off hand?
Thanks,
Nick

1985cucv

i think it goes all the way up to a 32cm and down to like a 4 cm but i may be mistaken

Mieser

From what I remember I want to say from 3-23cm ( it might have been 32cm).

The lowest setting in for the exhaust brake.

In the video above you can see that they have a screw stop to keep the vanes open off the lowest setting.

From what I have been reading using boost or drive pressure on an actuator seems to work. Some people are trying to get the exhaust brake function to work also.

As long as you find a minimum setting for the exhaust housing vanes that provides quick enough spool up, but isn't so small that the turbo barks excessively you should be ok using a spring to hold it on the min setting and letting internal drive pressure open the vanes? Finding the spring rate would be interesting.

Just another thought, its pretty bone simple really.

Crossy's son

Theres a guy on here with a white 24v 2nd gen that has an underhood video of his whole actuator setup working with his HE351...

G1625S

Update: Truck is running and driving! Still working on my actuator setup, so it is not installed. Just got a spring and a couple zip ties holding the vgt at what feels like approximately 10cm. First impressions are good. This thing is quiet though...say goodbye to the sweet sound of a straightpiped 12valve Just hotlapping around the block, keeping it under 20psi for now untill I get a few heat cycles through the head, but man this lights stupid fast The turbo itself is quiet. Can't figure how to get the silencer ring out, but apparently the 3rd gen guys are losing hp on the dyno just by removing it, so on it stays. Revving to 2500 from under the hood and pulling the housing closed and letting off the throttle at the same time makes a VERY evil almost big truck jake sound from the air filter. Had to do it like 20 times in a row to get it out of my system, lol! I'll snap some pics of the semi finalized setup shortly and post up in a few hours. This thing is gonna be very fun when completed. Just as it sits now it's more responsive and more smoke free than the hx35 by far...

W150CTDproject

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BnHGbN67PIM

mhuppertz

What is a good source for the he351vgt? Can't buy one now, saving up for a 4bt for my 1941 Dodge Military, but I will want to get one.

JustRamIt91

Nice, can't wait to see some pictures. I finished my HE351CW swap and could not be too much happier... well maybe a little happier, the 9cm housing is killing me on the highway, went from 19-21 to roughly 17-19 mpg but thats white A LOT of playing around. I also went from 3# low cabin noise, to 10# screaming cabin noise... im searching for the silence ring and retainer now that i have all the pieces to finish my air intake :-D

What im getting at is that i may be looking to upgrade once more to one of these VE turbos :-D


~any 3rd gen guy who upgraded their turbo. I see them on ebay and craigs list often. I look in the philadelphia area though.

bigredbrick

I got mine on fleabay. I think these turbos were take-offs, recalled because of electrical problems. I've heard of guys getting them for under $100, but that was a couple years ago. I think I paid around $250 with shipping a few months ago.

G1625S

Well, my pic didn't come out too good. I'll get some more--I've got to tear down the cold side to fix one shoddy weld on the turbo to i/c pipe. Hooked up a cable to the actuator and had my buddy run it from the passenger seat...totally redneck, but totally worth it! Coming down my driveway in 1st at about 2600, I let off the throttle while he pulled the turbo into e-brake mode and the rear tires barked---this sucker works! At normal speeds, it's like pressing semi-firmly on the service brakes--very satisfying[cool] and it sounds close to an actual engine break from the intake---we were both giggling coming to a stop---dugga dugga dugga dugga dugga pshhhhh! Wheeeeeee!!! I'd be further along on the gate controller, but the actuator I have has a ruptured diphram. Waiting on a new one.

JustRamIt91

thats awesome! makes me wanna get one now. I'd almost want to get some sort of mechanical over electric selonoid using a variable trigger to controll a variable solenoid and use boost/egt to controll it. Then a micro switch either under the throttle or on the injection pump. I have a few things "sketched" but haven't gone looking for parts which would work.

I just don't like the spring idea unless you had some sort of shock to dampen the return movement and keep it from barking at you. the kinda spudder sound you hear in that video the guy posted.

Mieser

I'm leaning towards throwing one of the VGTs on my truck. This living at 7000ft is killing me!

I think the spring control could work really well if done right. Even holding the vanes open some it is still suppose to bark. My guess is that you would have to have it go almost all the way open....which most people are not doing. I think the spring only control is starting at like 6-7cm and opening to 16cm or less. Even if you hold it at 16+cm it very well could still bark a lot.

I think the best solution for the bark would be a good blow off valve system. This would help prevent the air in the intake track from stalling the compressor. I think it could be plumbed and wired in pretty easy. Run a boost line to the back of the diaphragm on the BOV with a 3-way normally open valve. Wire the valve in so that it closes and BOV side of the line with a mico-switch on the throttle pedal. Basically it would limit the boost in the intake track to the spring pressure ( 5-psi ) when the throttle was closed. ( If you jumped off the throttle for the brake, shifting, etc ). Too bad a good BOV is about $250.

With the spring only actuator you could have the low end limiting block move out of the way the spring should pull it into exhaust brake mode. Depending on the spring tension you would be limited to whatever back pressure the spring on the vanes would generate.

You could also have a tension release on the spring for highway driving to keep drive pressure way down. If you could take all the tension off the spring the vanes should open to the max setting and stay there. Then you could hit a button or lever and have the turbo in responsive mode again.

oly_fab

G1625S, what did you do for the oil line and drain tube? Just ordered my tubes and boots so I'm starting to look a lil closer at mounting.

I think I'm going your route to mount instead of an adaptor... looks a lil more sanitary.

Stu