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Valve Adjustment Question

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Old 03-24-2011, 09:32 AM
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Valve Adjustment Question

I was looking over the valve adjustment procedure in The Sticky. Looks like fun, but I've got a couple questions.

At TDC, it looks like the I/E rockers are perfectly even with each other on 1&6. Is that the case?

Also, after adjusting 3,5, and 6, it says turn the motor over until cylinder 6 intake and exhaust rockers are both touching the valve, but the exhaust it pushing the valve slightly. I thought both rockers were already touching the valve on 6 when the motor was at TDC to adjust 3,4,and 5 in step one?

Last, how much room for error is there with the drag on the feeler gauge? I know is says tighten until you feel a slight drag, but that's a relative thing, sort of. If I get it close, am I doing more harm than good?

Basically, I'm asking this: if I don't do it EXACTLY PERFECT down to the micron, have I done more harm than good? A couple of videos I have seen have made me nervous as they seem like it required NASA-level precision to be done correctly. Is this the case?
Old 03-24-2011, 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by ARbowhunter7
I was looking over the valve adjustment procedure in The Sticky. Looks like fun, but I've got a couple questions.

At TDC, it looks like the I/E rockers are perfectly even with each other on 1&6. Is that the case?

Also, after adjusting 3,5, and 6, it says turn the motor over until cylinder 6 intake and exhaust rockers are both touching the valve, but the exhaust it pushing the valve slightly. I thought both rockers were already touching the valve on 6 when the motor was at TDC to adjust 3,4,and 5 in step one?

Last, how much room for error is there with the drag on the feeler gauge? I know is says tighten until you feel a slight drag, but that's a relative thing, sort of. If I get it close, am I doing more harm than good?

Basically, I'm asking this: if I don't do it EXACTLY PERFECT down to the micron, have I done more harm than good? A couple of videos I have seen have made me nervous as they seem like it required NASA-level precision to be done correctly. Is this the case?
Well, I'll give you my experience from doing it a few days ago, but I'm sure more experienced wrenches will chime in soon.

1. The rockers are only touching the rockers on cyl#1 in the first step, that's why you can adjust the intake on #6 cylinder during the first step.

2. Even with a decent amount of "drag" error you should be within the adjustment window, espicially compared to where the valves were when you started. As long as it has some resistance when you try to push it in and pull it out you should be fine. HOWEVER, be careful to ensure the feeler gauge is level (horizontal), if it's at an angle, it may feel like it has some resistance to it, but the gap would actually be much larger (potentially) than it should be.

3. More harm than good? Doubtful - espicially considering how far my valves were off when I started.

4. One more thing, take the time to recheck everything after you've adjusted it, espicially the first time, I had to develop a feel about how to tighten down the valve without changing the adjustment. By the time I was done I had it down pat, but I had to readjust the first couple cylinders a few times.

The truck sounds significantly better than it did before I adjusted the valves. She's quieter at all rpms.
Old 03-24-2011, 03:58 PM
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dEVIL, THAT IS A GOOD QUESTION, AS I'M ABOUT TO DO MY FIRST ADJ. All help & little hints will be welcomed by myself also.
Old 03-24-2011, 08:31 PM
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A feeler gauge is not an exact effort, as you said. The one thing I know for sure is that a little loose is MUCH better than a little tight...Mark
Old 03-28-2011, 12:39 PM
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Just did mine a week ago. Like you I wasn't too sure about the exact drag feeling, but using the ''over-under'' technique made it much easier. Say you are doing an EV at 0.020''. You're right on if a 0.021 shim won't go in, and a 0.019 shim goes in without drag. Then final-check with 0.020 shim.
Make sure to re-check each clearance after you tighten the nut, when torquing the nut you are nearly always moving the screw.
Some valves I had to re-do a few times before I got it right, some I got right the first time.
Some IVs were already at 0.010 and required no adjustment. Checking clearances before adjusting saved some time. All EVs needed some correction, some were up to 0.025.
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