Vacuum Sensor Question
Take your hand and pull up on the brake-pedal, then test the vacuum-sensor.
It is possible that the brake-pedal being down that it is giving a false reading.
Also, examine the bushings on the pedal assembly for possible binding.
If all that is okay, then I would suspect that something wrong with the booster is hanging up the pedal.
It is possible that the brake-pedal being down that it is giving a false reading.
Also, examine the bushings on the pedal assembly for possible binding.
If all that is okay, then I would suspect that something wrong with the booster is hanging up the pedal.
Thanks again guys, Tony
Up Date
Hey guys, I have on order a vacuum sensor hopefully that will take care of the parking brake light problem.
I have though a new wrinkle in things. When I pulled the VS off, and the cruise diaphrahm of cousre there are no power brakes. The brake pedal comes all the way back up to where it turns off the brake lights. When I plug the VS hose, and the Cruise hose off the pedal wont come back up high enough to turn off the brake lights, but I have power brakes again. Any ideas would be helpful. Thanks, Tony
I have though a new wrinkle in things. When I pulled the VS off, and the cruise diaphrahm of cousre there are no power brakes. The brake pedal comes all the way back up to where it turns off the brake lights. When I plug the VS hose, and the Cruise hose off the pedal wont come back up high enough to turn off the brake lights, but I have power brakes again. Any ideas would be helpful. Thanks, Tony
Run a new length of vacuum-hose DIRECT, from the port of the vacuum-pump to the brake-booster, bypassing everything else.
Start the engine and test the brakes.
If the pedal performs as it should, then you have a tremendous vacuum leak somewhere.
If the pedal still refuses to come up, then you probably have a ruptured diaphragm in the booster, letting vacuum into both sides of the booster, thus holding the pedal down.
Start the engine and test the brakes.
If the pedal performs as it should, then you have a tremendous vacuum leak somewhere.
If the pedal still refuses to come up, then you probably have a ruptured diaphragm in the booster, letting vacuum into both sides of the booster, thus holding the pedal down.
Run a new length of vacuum-hose DIRECT, from the port of the vacuum-pump to the brake-booster, bypassing everything else.
Start the engine and test the brakes.
If the pedal performs as it should, then you have a tremendous vacuum leak somewhere.
If the pedal still refuses to come up, then you probably have a ruptured diaphragm in the booster, letting vacuum into both sides of the booster, thus holding the pedal down.
Start the engine and test the brakes.
If the pedal performs as it should, then you have a tremendous vacuum leak somewhere.
If the pedal still refuses to come up, then you probably have a ruptured diaphragm in the booster, letting vacuum into both sides of the booster, thus holding the pedal down.
Later, Tony
Another Up Date
Hello everyone, I tried what Bearkiller suggested, and here are the results.
As he suggested, I did. Still the brake pedal I would have to pull back up in order for the brake lights to turn off. I then pulled the booster, I found out that the shaft that goes into the master cylinder you could pull out by hand, and on the new one you can't do that. On the new one the only way the shaft that goes into the MC can be moved is when the brake pedal shaft is pushed.
Another thing on the old Booster I could reach down and pull the brake pedal up about 2" I can't move the brake pedal at all now, because it comes all the way back up
Conclusion: I took it for a test drive, so far it seems to be working as it should. The only other problem on the brakes is the brake light off button. It has been moved so many times trying to get this thing fixed it can move very easily now to where the brake pedal can't reach it.
I'll keep you posted to let you know if I have any trouble from it tomorrow.
Thanks for all the help, Tony
As he suggested, I did. Still the brake pedal I would have to pull back up in order for the brake lights to turn off. I then pulled the booster, I found out that the shaft that goes into the master cylinder you could pull out by hand, and on the new one you can't do that. On the new one the only way the shaft that goes into the MC can be moved is when the brake pedal shaft is pushed.
Another thing on the old Booster I could reach down and pull the brake pedal up about 2" I can't move the brake pedal at all now, because it comes all the way back up

Conclusion: I took it for a test drive, so far it seems to be working as it should. The only other problem on the brakes is the brake light off button. It has been moved so many times trying to get this thing fixed it can move very easily now to where the brake pedal can't reach it.
I'll keep you posted to let you know if I have any trouble from it tomorrow.
Thanks for all the help, Tony
Conclusion
The brake booster fixed the brake pedal. It now comes back up, and will turn off the brake lights.
The vacuum sensor fixed the parking brake light from staying on. Just goes that sometimes a new booster can go bad very quickly. The one I replaced started actling up within 2 months of being put on the truck.
So everyone thanks for the help, Tony.
The vacuum sensor fixed the parking brake light from staying on. Just goes that sometimes a new booster can go bad very quickly. The one I replaced started actling up within 2 months of being put on the truck.
So everyone thanks for the help, Tony.
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