Sasker

Hello I had to remove my transmission this winter and a simple trans inspection and new torque converter turned into rust repair floors and inner and outer rockers. But while removing trans I couldn’t t get the rear cooler line off the trans so had to cut it, and like a idiot I didn’t leave very much much tube sticking out of fitting. Has anyone had any luck with using compression fittings?

Jim Lane

A-727 or A-518 transmission?

I have used a brass compression union on transmission lines before.

Try and get a good hydraulic fitting like an Imperial Eastman; they have a higher working pressure somewhere around 3000 psi and are made a lot sturdier, you can also get them in stainless steel.

The cheaper ones like you would find at Home Depot are usually only made for water service and are rated for about 400 psi.

I have cracked them just trying to get them to stop leaking.

The return cold line does not get the punishment the front hot line gets.

Please fill out your signature so we know what you are working on.


Jim

Sasker

Sorry it’s a 93 w250 with a a518

Sasker

Has anyone just replaced the steel lines with a hyd lines with jic fittings?

Jim Lane

I have tbe optional Super Duty Transmission Oil Cooler on mine and I have close to 20 feet of 1/2" TOC hose under mine.

I would keep the metal line from the front outlet to the heat exchanger, the hot ATF from the converter can get extermly hot and shorten the life of the hose.
I could peg my transmission oil temperature gauge from a stop with my slight turned up pump and low stall torque converter.

Be sure to use the correct barb fitting for the correct hose, if you put a hose clamp on a PushLok hose and barb you will cut the hose and cause a leak.
If you decide to use hose other than Transmission Oil Cooler "TOC" check the fluid temperature spec.
I bought Hayden TOC from O'Reilly's it is sold by the box.

Jim

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...r-t264993.html

Sasker

I was able to use a 1/2” tube to 3/8 npt and go direct into transmission with out haveing to modify anything and seems to be holding fine

Boatnik

I cut and installed an auxiliary trans cooler and fan under the cab next to the transfer case using flare fittings and hydraulic hoses from TruValue and Tractor Supply. Made up a Tee to install the temperature probe on the hot line from the trans to cycle the fan as needed. I also used compression fittings to repair the leaks along the frame rails where the cross member rubbed some holes in the steel lines.