Transmission
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Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Southern California
Transmission
No Go No Mo
Well after my last accident a few months back when I totaled 2 nissan's into the back of my truck it is finally about all finished. The last of the problems was that the transmission was hard to get into gear from park and then between the ranges. I felt the accident had something to do with this because it did not do this before. So I went around town to find a trans shop who could tell me what was going on. Now I mean to tell you I have really lost faith in anyone to work on anything mechanical, all I got were alot of "well it might be" and "I dunno, we need to tear it all apart to find out". I got prices from $1,500.00 to over $3,000.00 to rebuild it and that was plus the converter. When I started inquiring, I went to the dealer and I got a complete breakdown on the 727 trans. and valve body so I was loaded with ammunition from the start. In my years as a diesel mechanic I have rebuilt many allison, THV730, and 2 speed FD/DD units used behind 6V71 detroits so in short I know what I am talking about. Anyhow most of these shops around here are complete rip-off's, you know when you talk to someone and you have that feeling that they do not know what they are talking about. So I was lost... then It hit me, I went to Banks Engineering up the street and I ask the lady at the desk,"who do you know that you recomend to build a 727 for a diesel". She came out and said she ask Gale Banks himself and gave me a phone number to call. I called him and I told him what the problem was and he said to come on by and he will check it out. So the next day I went there and talked to him and explained about the accident and the shifting. Then he put it on the lift while I was there and pulled the pan. First the shift problem was easy, the part on the valve body where the shaft enters and where the detent is situated somehow had a crack in it and the detent ball had fallen out. So the valve body was trashed and he said impact could have caused it. But then when we checked the pan, where the magnet is located there was a big ball of metal filings stuck to it about the size of a golf ball. NOT GOOD
He said the torque converter had finally come apart and had been grinding for some time. This trans is Poo Poo.
He showed me a TC for a diesel he had cut open and all of the vanes were held in with tabs that were just bent and staked. So how much for a rebuild??? I was beside myself when he said only $1,200.00 complete and this includes a TransGo shift kit, custom built torque converter that is furnce welded with a billet cover. This rebuild is specificlly for the CTD. Then all of my cooler lines were backflushed with solvent. It took 2 1/2 days for the job and I got it back this afternoon. Man this thing really drives good and shifts clean. Got a 1 year warranty on it.
This place is called "The Trans Shop" and they build transmissions for race cars, diesel trucks, street cars.
You know how when you go into some place and you just have that good feeling and you know you are not going to get ripped off? this was it.
Man I am happy now.. Not having my truck for the last few days is like when someone is in the hospital, You know it seems like forever. Course in the last 3 days fuel went up $.10 gallon too. Jim
BTW How have you installed the temp sensor into the HOT fluid line? what kind of a fitting do you use so you do not restrict the flow?
He said in a non lockup TC in a stall the temps can go over 500* with the torque our engines produce.
Well after my last accident a few months back when I totaled 2 nissan's into the back of my truck it is finally about all finished. The last of the problems was that the transmission was hard to get into gear from park and then between the ranges. I felt the accident had something to do with this because it did not do this before. So I went around town to find a trans shop who could tell me what was going on. Now I mean to tell you I have really lost faith in anyone to work on anything mechanical, all I got were alot of "well it might be" and "I dunno, we need to tear it all apart to find out". I got prices from $1,500.00 to over $3,000.00 to rebuild it and that was plus the converter. When I started inquiring, I went to the dealer and I got a complete breakdown on the 727 trans. and valve body so I was loaded with ammunition from the start. In my years as a diesel mechanic I have rebuilt many allison, THV730, and 2 speed FD/DD units used behind 6V71 detroits so in short I know what I am talking about. Anyhow most of these shops around here are complete rip-off's, you know when you talk to someone and you have that feeling that they do not know what they are talking about. So I was lost... then It hit me, I went to Banks Engineering up the street and I ask the lady at the desk,"who do you know that you recomend to build a 727 for a diesel". She came out and said she ask Gale Banks himself and gave me a phone number to call. I called him and I told him what the problem was and he said to come on by and he will check it out. So the next day I went there and talked to him and explained about the accident and the shifting. Then he put it on the lift while I was there and pulled the pan. First the shift problem was easy, the part on the valve body where the shaft enters and where the detent is situated somehow had a crack in it and the detent ball had fallen out. So the valve body was trashed and he said impact could have caused it. But then when we checked the pan, where the magnet is located there was a big ball of metal filings stuck to it about the size of a golf ball. NOT GOOD
He said the torque converter had finally come apart and had been grinding for some time. This trans is Poo Poo.
He showed me a TC for a diesel he had cut open and all of the vanes were held in with tabs that were just bent and staked. So how much for a rebuild??? I was beside myself when he said only $1,200.00 complete and this includes a TransGo shift kit, custom built torque converter that is furnce welded with a billet cover. This rebuild is specificlly for the CTD. Then all of my cooler lines were backflushed with solvent. It took 2 1/2 days for the job and I got it back this afternoon. Man this thing really drives good and shifts clean. Got a 1 year warranty on it.
This place is called "The Trans Shop" and they build transmissions for race cars, diesel trucks, street cars.
You know how when you go into some place and you just have that good feeling and you know you are not going to get ripped off? this was it.
Man I am happy now.. Not having my truck for the last few days is like when someone is in the hospital, You know it seems like forever. Course in the last 3 days fuel went up $.10 gallon too. Jim
BTW How have you installed the temp sensor into the HOT fluid line? what kind of a fitting do you use so you do not restrict the flow?
He said in a non lockup TC in a stall the temps can go over 500* with the torque our engines produce.
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 355
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From: Raleigh Nc. now
You said in a stall,what about on a long steady pull like up a long hill?I have a fan cooler going in mine shortly.Your trans.isn't a 518 is it as I was wondering about the valve body being different?
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Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 202
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From: Tucson, AZ
Jim - If you don't have an OD transmission, you'll need to cut the hard line and use a compression "T" fitting to install the sensor, or try to find the hard line off a 91.5-93 truck. The OD-equipped trucks have a temperature switch in the line that makes it easier - I just used a brass "T" fitting and piggybacked the factory switch and the new sensor off this port.
The hottest I've seen is 230*, and that was with the camper on the truck and the Jeep on the trailer (~14k pounds total), dragging everything up a seven mile long, 7-8% uphill grade...from a standing stop.
EDIT: Here is a pic of how I did mine:
The hottest I've seen is 230*, and that was with the camper on the truck and the Jeep on the trailer (~14k pounds total), dragging everything up a seven mile long, 7-8% uphill grade...from a standing stop.
EDIT: Here is a pic of how I did mine:
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Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 133
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From: modesto, ca
Hi there Jim-
just read your post. Man, I can understand why you missed your truck! dang, that is a very nice 350! I love the charcoal grey. I have a D250 club cab red/grey and was thinking about going all grey like yours.
I have a neighbor with the same as yours only he has the club cab.
Absolutely beautiful! $1200 bucks, huh? I guess I'll be vacationing down there soon! hehe! I'd like to have the best work on the best if ya know what i mean!
Keep up the good work and clean looking truck
just read your post. Man, I can understand why you missed your truck! dang, that is a very nice 350! I love the charcoal grey. I have a D250 club cab red/grey and was thinking about going all grey like yours.
I have a neighbor with the same as yours only he has the club cab.
Absolutely beautiful! $1200 bucks, huh? I guess I'll be vacationing down there soon! hehe! I'd like to have the best work on the best if ya know what i mean!
Keep up the good work and clean looking truck
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Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,107
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From: British Columbia, Canada
If you choose to use the cross-over line I STRONGLY recommend you mig weld the T-coupling in place. These type of compression connections have a problem with leaking...when this happens the natural thing to do is tighten up the compression nuts.
This will result in the over compression of the tubing ends by the ferrel, which in turn, will reduce oil flow.
pb....
This will result in the over compression of the tubing ends by the ferrel, which in turn, will reduce oil flow.
pb....
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