Not familiar with what the Trak Lock units look like. I'm guessing this is a trak lock.

Anybody know for sure?
Image 1

Den

 

That's a Power Lok (don't blame me for the spelling, blame Dana). Trac Lok is what's used in a Dana 60.

Imagine my surprise when I pulled the cover and saw that - my truck only spun one tire in the snow due to totally destroyed clutches. It was a happy surprise, though.

 

Thanks WD

I went with Valvoline 85w/140 and found the tube of additive you mentioned.

Haven't got the additive in awhile. Up north I had a friend that was a Dodge parts manager that used to get me the mopar stuff. Used it in the 8 3/4 SureGrip in the Coronet.

Den

 

Next time you're in there you might want to pull the diff out and freshen up the clutch packs, it's less than $50 and takes about 2 hours. If you start feeling a clunk shifting into drive from reverse and it's not the u-joints, it's worn clutches. The thickness of the clutch packs afffects the depth of the mesh on the spider gears as well as the amount of slop between the mate shafts and the diff case. Mine was so bad that only the tips of the spider gears were engaging the side gears. 1/4 turn on the driveshaft to make the wheels start to move. There are pics of the mess I found inside mine in my photo gallery.

 

Ouch..those parts look terrible!

Mine seems to be ok. Matter of fact, a left turn tends to feel like the left tire is trying to spin and making a pulsing skidding. Not bad..but noticeable

I made a tracing of the cover and the new gasket when I had it apart. Also measured the cover dimensions and took pictures. Thinking of making a aluminum cover with more capacity and a drain plug for easier changes.


Den

 

Cool. While you're building it, how about lowering the fill plug 3/8" like Dana should have done in the first place? Years ago some Dana rears had a drain plug in the bottom of the cast housing, just a 1/2" pipe plug like on a manual trans. I guess it cost a couple of bucks to drill and tap the hole.

I agree that as long as it feels like it's working it's fine, clearance wise. Just something to keep in mind.

 

I drill and tap the bottom of the case for drain plugs. One problem with having the drain in the cover would be not getting all the fluid out. Cause of the lip in the cover flange.

 

Does anybody have a rear swaybar on your 250 or 350?

I'm designing that diff cover and I need to know if a stock swaybar is in front of the cover. If it is, I need to know what the spacing is between the cover gasket surface and the swaybar.....or the distance between the ring gear bump on the cover and the bar.

I've got the design all layed out. I built the flange area out of 3/16 sheet and have the measurements/angles for the sides all figured out. I need to know how far I can go depth wise as a maximumum to figure out a good depth to go with.

Den