Tps Replacement W/ P-meter
Tps Replacement W/ P-meter
Have read the sticky on this subject but still cant seem to find the issue. At first I cleaned the connection to the TPS and the overdrive worked great for 20-30 min. Decided to then drill a hole in the TPS sensor and clean it with some electricial cleaning solution. Same result.
Now I new the Tps was bad then did the P-meter replacement. But still no overdrive. When doing a voltage test the BLK/BLU wire is the ground and the RED/BROWN varies in voltage from .3-5.59vlts. The WHITE RED hold a constant 5.59Volts. When the meter is turned clockwise the voltage on the centre wire decreases.
Does this seem corect.
Now I new the Tps was bad then did the P-meter replacement. But still no overdrive. When doing a voltage test the BLK/BLU wire is the ground and the RED/BROWN varies in voltage from .3-5.59vlts. The WHITE RED hold a constant 5.59Volts. When the meter is turned clockwise the voltage on the centre wire decreases.
Does this seem corect.
I think you may have the potentiometer wired backwards. But shouldn't matter. Voltage should be low when "throttle" is "closed". It will just behave opposite of normal. Mine shifts at 35mph with the meter in about the 10 o'clock position. So if it's backwards, yours should shift around the 2 or 3 o'clock position. Other then that, it seems right to me.
So the voltage on the centre (red/bwn) wire is the one whick changes??? When the wires are unpluged they both read the same 5.3volts. When ther dial of the P meter is turned clockwise the values will drop to 0.3volts at the full turn.
Triesd to plug in the TPS and turn the dial to se what wire changed but the don't change at all. Even when the grd of the BLK?BLU wire is touched.
Triesd to plug in the TPS and turn the dial to se what wire changed but the don't change at all. Even when the grd of the BLK?BLU wire is touched.
I would have to check for sure, but yes, I believe that is correct. Middle wire is the sensing wire. 5 volts is the reference voltage. Low voltage at the middle wire should be "idle" condition. That's why I think you've got your's backwards. Just switch to 2 outside wires. Leave the middle one as it is.
With the gage all the way counter clockwise the reading is .3 volts and clockwise 5.3volts. Took the truck for a drive and still no overdrive no matter what position the p meter was at or the speed. Went to 60mph to see if it would catch.
Time to crawl under the truck to find the actuator wire and put it to ground.
Time to crawl under the truck to find the actuator wire and put it to ground.
I have been looking for the actuator wire under the truck. I've read that it is near the front driverside of the transmition. Found the one connected to the temperature sensor for the trans and the reverse light switch. Am I close ???? can the wire be seen in the mess of wires?? Where is the EZ'est place to splice into the ORANGE GREEN wire.
Mine is hooked to a toggle switch..I believe it was one of the wires in the harness that runs on the top of the trans. Not real sure, someone did it for me. But works like a charm, just don't forget to shut it off when you come to a stop.
I did however just order the parts to make my p/meter.. I want to try that, so i'll find out which wire when i do it. I want it to disengage on it's own.
I did however just order the parts to make my p/meter.. I want to try that, so i'll find out which wire when i do it. I want it to disengage on it's own.
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Mental note make sure you bring an flashlight under the truck. The actuator plug is only inches away frm the other two plugs. Just further in. It stands horisontal.
So now I have grounded out the solenoid and still no overdrive. The blue wire has power with the key on. Is the internal issue hard to solve or is it better to send out???
So now I have grounded out the solenoid and still no overdrive. The blue wire has power with the key on. Is the internal issue hard to solve or is it better to send out???
Not to be insulting, but you had power going to the solenoid when you grounded it, right? I only ask because guys have unplugged the solenoid, run a ground wire, and then wondered why the OD wouldn't work.
The next step is to check continuity on the solenoid. If it's an open circuit, then all you need to do is replace the OD solenoid. That's only slightly more involved than changing the filter. If the OD solenoid ohms out OK, then you have internal trans work in your future...
The next step is to check continuity on the solenoid. If it's an open circuit, then all you need to do is replace the OD solenoid. That's only slightly more involved than changing the filter. If the OD solenoid ohms out OK, then you have internal trans work in your future...
After finding the OD solenoid I decided to hard wire the ground right away. I was convinced that it was going to be an EZ fix. Expecially after such a learning curve.
Planning on dropping the pan and doing a simple service on the trans and perform a conitity test. I did notice that the fluid level on the trans is super high. NTM seems to have alot of discolouration. If the continuty is open will try to install the OD solinoid.
Nothing is worse than trying to fix 15 years of abuse in a truck in a few months. Plus the truck had been sitting for a year before its new found life.
Planning on dropping the pan and doing a simple service on the trans and perform a conitity test. I did notice that the fluid level on the trans is super high. NTM seems to have alot of discolouration. If the continuty is open will try to install the OD solinoid.
Nothing is worse than trying to fix 15 years of abuse in a truck in a few months. Plus the truck had been sitting for a year before its new found life.
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