Did you all reuse the bracket that originally supported the 1st hanger immediately once the down pipe went horizontal? The bracket is piggybacked on a tranny to engine connection bolt. If you did not keep a hanger at that point, that would mean the exhaust is supported at the turbo and the next form of support is at the muffler. All ok?

 

I have a Diamond Eye 4" headpipe and a Banks Exhaust out the back, when I installed the headpipe I made a new hanger from the transmission to hold the 4" pipe, I did not want any unnecessary weight hanging off the flange of the turbo.

Also you need support at this joint because when it is connected to the remainder of the exhaust system, all of the twisting from the engine idling and torque origionates from this joint, some use a section of flex pipe but I do not have room and I do not like rattles so I am thinking about a stainless steel isolator.

Jim

 

I had one on my Pinnacle 4" but when I put on my Diamond Eye a couple months ago I left it off. Probably should fab up something though.

 

I modified the bracket's "foot" with a grinder, and then used a bigger 4 inch clamp.

 

I had to fab one. My aftermaket turbo moved the pipe down and outboard.

 

I used a heavy duty universal hanger, and a large clamp, mounted to the floorboard in the truck. The OEM bracket was snapped off in my truck.

 

I'm exactly at this point myself... looks like I'll have to fab up a new mount as well. Does nothing bolt in these days.....

 

I tossed mine, shortened the bolt and put it back in the bellhousing. It's been like that for over a year now without a problem. I intended to fab something up but haven't gotten around to it yet.

I'm going to take a weeks vacation in May or June and have a lot of stuff I'll be doing that I've been gathering parts for, so maybe I'll do it then.

 

Anyone run twins on a 1st gen and if so what exhaust do you use? How is the fit by the T-case?

 

I was just working on this. Not only is Jim right about all of the strain from the relative motion of the engine to the rest of the truck being concentrated at that point, but there is nothing else locating the exhaust fore and aft. So, without that solid mount at the bellhousing, if you back into something with the tailpipe, the whole exhaust gets shoved forward and torques on the turbo & exhaust manifold. Maybe the down pipe will just bend, but that 4 inch unit is very beefy, so I think you need to make sure that that mount will hold the exhaust if the tailpipe gets caught on something . . .

 

I had my pipe clamp out, the one that went over that OEM bracket when I first inquired about this. Reason being is that every time I put the gears in reverse I got this rumbling noise that came from the down pipe touching something. Very irritating noise that is. So I took that clamp off and took a pry bar and pulled the pipe away from any frame and transfer case for a gap of about an inch. I believe the pipe was touching the floor pan right where I pass the transfer case and that was doing the rumbling noise. Put the clamp back on the support bracket and I'm at least 80% better as far as removing that noise. Still does it occasionally

 

It takes quite a bit of tinkering to get these things the way we want them.

 

At least you got it fixed now!

 

My black crew cabs 4 inch exhaust [Diamond Eye] touches the crossmember when the motor is shut off.
It taps it right when the motor rumbles to a stop.
It doesn't hit/rattle it when on the road though which is nice.

 

Yea the rumbling is coming back. Doesn't happen in drive at all. Only when I come to a stop and pop it in reverse and start backing up. I tried slipping an isolator cushion type material between the pipe and the floorboard but only made it worse by me hearing it while driving. Wish there was a heat proof spray foam I could apply to isolate the pipe from any close obstructions. Sorta like that canned expanding foam. Either that or completely disassemble the exhaust system and hammer in the spots that hit. That will be a bear, so saving that one for last