I could use a hand here.

I purchased these switches to actuate a couple of relays for my plow lights.

http://www.amazon.com/HELLA-H6192800...4702194&sr=1-1


Unfortunately, for the life of me, I cannot find the wiring schematic for the switch... Nothing on the box, and although I found the switch on Hella's website, it doesn't tell you where to put what wire ?

On the back are 3 poles. One brass colored (bottom) and two silver colored terminals, (middle and top). If this was a house switch, the brass would be the line (black or power wire) and the silver would indicate load (what it's being switched to). one of the silver's must be the ground wire terminal.

Without having to go crazy ....do you know which wires go where ?


Most appreciated.

 

No symbols or letters on the back of the switch? seems odd.

 

I would think the brass would be ground. Only because it is a different color. if the switch wasn't illuminated, both terminals could be the same color and it wouldn't matter what wire went where, but since you need a ground to make a circuit, it needs to be "identified" or a different color to avoid a direct short.

 

Great idea.

I looked on the back, but I guess I'm showing my age. Even with a pair of readers, and a magnifying glass I still couldn't see any marks.


Well, the digital camera comes to save the day again.... well, sort of.


Found the brass terminal takes either neg or positive, and the other two are marked 1 & 2....

Guess I have to try it out and see if I pop a fuse or not.


Thanks ! Forgot about the digital camera trick.



T.

 

It says SPST, single pole single throw. Is it illuminated? If yes, do you have a volt ohm meter? If yes, check for continuity between the center and the outer terminals in both positions. If yes, then check in the resistance position for the lower-closer to zero reading from the center out in both positions. The higher reading will be the lamp circuit and the lower closer to zero reading will be the load. If your switch uses an LED lamp the side closer to zero will be the load and the other higher reading or zero reading outer terminal is likely the ground. If you have no volt ohm meter you can perform the same tests using a 12 volt test lamp and a trickle battery charger.

Clear as mud?

 

Yup ! I'll take two cups, please

She's illuminated... so I can see it at night and not forget to turn it off during the day, and run my battery down.


Wound up doing it the old fashioned way.....

I set up the circuit in my distribution block, fused it the req'd size for the switch, and installed the wires where I thought they should go. I was completely wrong, Although the brass colored term says +, it's really required to have the ground attached, otherwise it's powered all the time with the switch in the off position.

Using a test light, I reversed the load wire to the other side, put the ground there onto #3 ( brass terminal) and by process of elimination found that the #1 terminal (outer one opposite the brass) was where the load wire went, and the center terminal (#2)was the line terminal which lead to the relays as it's trigger.

Work great now. Super bright too.! The Plow lights work off of these switches, and now I can use either low beam, high beam or both beams @ the same time, and since they go through the relays, I don't have to worry about frying my headlight switch any longer.


Peace of mind....

Thanks for your help (all who answered). Most appreciated


T.

 

When I design a circuit I will usually have the coil (+) hot all the time and then switch the trigger lead to ground, if there were a short somewhere in the circuit the most that will happen it to activate the relay instead of melting my wiring, I also will then install a 1/2-amp fuse in the coil circuit.

One thing you might notice is when you turn the switch off you might see the indicator lamp momentarily flash as it goes out.
This is caused from the high voltage spike induced from the coil as its field collapses. I knew you would understand.

Jim

 

Jim,

I guess I don't understand.


I had the load and ground wires switched, initially, meaning that the power from the distribution block went to the brass (+) terminal on the switch, and the ground, was in position #3. Seemed like it was going to work.

Unfortunately, when I went to attach the trigger wire (#2 in middle) to the relays, they turned the relays on ....

This is why I reversed their positions. Since the switch is powered from my distribution block, and it says "10A" on the switch, it's fused with a 10 amp ato fuse to protect it.

Did I do something incorrect.... ??


T.

BTW,

I can't thank you enough for your guidance here. Before I read your sticky's I have always been hesitant at doing any type of electrical work on my trucks (not in homes, but in my truck). With your "guides" that you've produced here, you make it much easier to comprehend.