I have continuity through all three wires and i did solder and heat shrink all the connections to begin with. I don't know what the deal is. Oh well. Life goes on.......
Aaron

 

Sounds good to me. Can you provide me with a description of the wires and where they're located??

Thanks.

Joe V

 

The crank sensor is just above the damper, follow the wires and look for any obvious problems. Also check the gap, should be 0.050", use a brass feeler.

The VSS you already know, I think you said you messed with that?

 

Wiring Diag. Now Included in first post

Monty (Admin)

 

Howdy stranger!

 

Does this sound like a TPS problem that you guys describe?
My 93 d350 has done this since I got it 4 years ago. It only happens when the late fall and winter temps arrive. Summertime it works great. As soon as we start into the colder winter temps the o/d won't kick in until I'm over 90kms/hr (55mph) and keeps kicking in and out uncontrolably. Mostly between 60-85kms/hr (35-50mph) no matter what the engine temperature is.

 

Was this the fix for your problem? Mine is doing the exact same thing and I am going to buy the pot, tonight.

 

5K=5000 ohms of resistance and a potentiometer is a varible resistor used in DC circuits. Radio Shack should have them. A TPS must be a fixed resistor configuration, to give predetermined resistance for predetermined shift .

 

Not yet...I haven't done the fix because nobody has replied if this would be the cure to my problems.

 

Rammer, it sounds like the TPS is bad or out of adjustment, at least that would be the first thing to check.
I'd recommend you check the TPS settings and adjust them, and then if you're still having the problem, install the POT.
Of course, you could just go ahead and install the POT anyways, its a nice mod to have regardless...
instructions for checkign and adjusting the TPS are in teh Stickey...

 

Just thinkin' here.... How long does the ECM take to recover from a loss of TPS signal? I am thinking that you could wire in a NC spring contact switch to the accerators pedal's bellcrank assem. So upon full throttle it would open the circut.... dropping out the OD? And when returning to cruiseing throttle pressure on the skinny, would go into OD? Too simple to work? Thinking out loud....Artie

 

Well I finally decided to fix the problem and what I did may save up even having to replace it with a POTENTIOMETER for any of us. If anyone else has the same problem....please try this first and post if it works. IT WORKED FOR ME..
I removed the TPS switch and took it over to my parts washer. I sprayed it clean with electronic spray cleaner especially while rotating the shaft. I shook it and let it dry for about and hour. I then sprayed it with a penetrating oil while rotating the shaft back and forth concentrating the spray around the shaft to get as much of the penetrating spray inside that I can. I shook out and drained the excess.
I re-installed it and adjusted it and "IT WORKS GREAT"... No more intermittant downshifts in cold and upshifts are all at the desireable RPMs.

 

Wow.

It's been about 4 1/2 years since I posted this fix. Looks like a number of people have gotten some use out of it. That makes me feel really good. I even had to come back and refer to it when I did the POT on my second truck.

I LOVE "stickin it to da man". Just think how many $200 TPS units are still on the shelf!

 

I just did hook up my p/meter, and it works flawlessly. Thanks ouchman!!!And my truck was doing the same thing , shifting in and out under accel or deceleration..

 

Am having trouble getting mine to work, had the od drop in and out going on, installed the pot, no improvement, tried to shortcut and send voltage directly into the pot (center wire), thinking that since it didnt work it might be because there wasnt voltage in the circuit to start with, one puff of smoke at the pot later and i still dont have od and the tach doesnt work, any ideas on what i screwed up??