Sprung a leak (trans).
I noticed yesterday that the truck was very soft in its shifts as compared to what might be normal for my mess. Then noticed it was slipping in second and third. I wasn't real sure it was going into OD either. 
The short version of the story is I've sprung a leak in the transmission's hydraulic lines going to/from the cooler. It appears to be right under the forward most pipe clamp, right there at the engine block/oil pan stud.
I'm guessing the vibration has worried a hole in it.
Assuming I'm gonna properly secure things, would there be any reason why I can't just cut the pipe a little before the leak and run new hose from there to the cooler? Seems I'll even be able to reuse the original pipe clamp. Just move it to a oil pan stud before the new connection.
While we're talking about it, . . . . . . . . . I sure hope I've not toasted the/a clutch band/disk.
If ya wanna go off on a different tangent, . . . . . . . anybody ever run one of the "girdled" rear-end differential covers? One like this . . . . .

As found here: http://www.ringpinion.biz/product_in...03ec6ed638c949
While I'm not convinced the super expensive covers typically available for our trucks are cost-effective (outside the "pretty expensive" category). If I must spend hard earned money on such, it might as well be something that offers real advantage.
I dunno . . . . . . .
They are cool looking. To be sure the re-enforcement studs are worth-while in my application.
What do ya think?
EDIT: I'm running the Dana70 rear end.
DOH!! EDIT (again!) Would it really be worth while to go ahead and switch to a synthetic oil while I'm in the rear end?

The short version of the story is I've sprung a leak in the transmission's hydraulic lines going to/from the cooler. It appears to be right under the forward most pipe clamp, right there at the engine block/oil pan stud.
I'm guessing the vibration has worried a hole in it.
Assuming I'm gonna properly secure things, would there be any reason why I can't just cut the pipe a little before the leak and run new hose from there to the cooler? Seems I'll even be able to reuse the original pipe clamp. Just move it to a oil pan stud before the new connection.
While we're talking about it, . . . . . . . . . I sure hope I've not toasted the/a clutch band/disk.
If ya wanna go off on a different tangent, . . . . . . . anybody ever run one of the "girdled" rear-end differential covers? One like this . . . . .

As found here: http://www.ringpinion.biz/product_in...03ec6ed638c949
While I'm not convinced the super expensive covers typically available for our trucks are cost-effective (outside the "pretty expensive" category). If I must spend hard earned money on such, it might as well be something that offers real advantage.
I dunno . . . . . . .
They are cool looking. To be sure the re-enforcement studs are worth-while in my application.
What do ya think?

EDIT: I'm running the Dana70 rear end.
DOH!! EDIT (again!) Would it really be worth while to go ahead and switch to a synthetic oil while I'm in the rear end?
depends on how much driving you've done with it slipping like that. I've blown a transmission line and it starting slipping real bad a minute later. I stopped immediately and put a new line on (make sure you get a high temp line, some parts stores will just match up the OD and sell you one that is the right length but will burst quickly because of the heat).
If you've driven it a long time with it slipping, you may have burnt some parts, but hopefully not.
brad
If you've driven it a long time with it slipping, you may have burnt some parts, but hopefully not.
brad
I think you caught it soon enough, it should be fine.
I have heard of guys snapping axles or pinions pulling, but I've never heard of anybody blowing the diff out of the pumpkin. Setups like that cover can act as a "cap splitter", I would be hesitant to run it. I think the finned cast aluminum covers are of dubious value, I can't believe that they lower temps by much. I'd rather see somebody spend the money on a pump and cooler setup, you could do that for only a little more money than a Mag-Hytech. Obviously a pump and cooler is overkill for a truck that doesn't tow heavy.
If you're towing I think synthetic is a real good idea, but I wouldn't (and didn't
) bother for a play toy.
I have heard of guys snapping axles or pinions pulling, but I've never heard of anybody blowing the diff out of the pumpkin. Setups like that cover can act as a "cap splitter", I would be hesitant to run it. I think the finned cast aluminum covers are of dubious value, I can't believe that they lower temps by much. I'd rather see somebody spend the money on a pump and cooler setup, you could do that for only a little more money than a Mag-Hytech. Obviously a pump and cooler is overkill for a truck that doesn't tow heavy.
If you're towing I think synthetic is a real good idea, but I wouldn't (and didn't
) bother for a play toy.
Well head's up guys. Those of you running automatics might consider peeking under those clamps that bundle the transmission cooler lines.
The one I'm messing with (the one at the front of the block) has worried a substantial hole in the line(s). My temporary fix is taking a short piece of 1/2" ID red hot-water service hose, split it, and using it as a bandage, sealing the leak with a worm-screw type hose clamp.
Admitting I'm running an over sized trans pan, I was 5 quarts low before I realized something was wrong.
Fortunately, it appears no damage was done :BIG WHEW!:
Now how do I go about replacing those steel lines? (Thinking out loud)
Naturally, they're around 1/2" OD making them something of an oddity as far as over-the-counter mess down at Loop Road Auto. I'm not sure of the actual line pressures involved, but the idea of slipping a hose over the original steel line is starting off whacked.
Too big for regular hose as it were, and regular dedicated hydraulic hose is re-enforced with stainless wiring making it difficult at best to slip over the steel line (especially if one were to flare it to give a secure bite).
Hmmmmmm . . . . . .
Any suggestions?
Ya reckon those who build hydraulic lines (the rubber ones) would also do steel lines?
I'd hate to think what the dodge folks would want, were it available.
Dave, found some of the pink windshield washing fluid. 25% more stuff compared to the blue.
The one I'm messing with (the one at the front of the block) has worried a substantial hole in the line(s). My temporary fix is taking a short piece of 1/2" ID red hot-water service hose, split it, and using it as a bandage, sealing the leak with a worm-screw type hose clamp.
Admitting I'm running an over sized trans pan, I was 5 quarts low before I realized something was wrong.
Fortunately, it appears no damage was done :BIG WHEW!:
Now how do I go about replacing those steel lines? (Thinking out loud)
Naturally, they're around 1/2" OD making them something of an oddity as far as over-the-counter mess down at Loop Road Auto. I'm not sure of the actual line pressures involved, but the idea of slipping a hose over the original steel line is starting off whacked.
Too big for regular hose as it were, and regular dedicated hydraulic hose is re-enforced with stainless wiring making it difficult at best to slip over the steel line (especially if one were to flare it to give a secure bite).Hmmmmmm . . . . . .

Any suggestions?
Ya reckon those who build hydraulic lines (the rubber ones) would also do steel lines?
I'd hate to think what the dodge folks would want, were it available.

Dave, found some of the pink windshield washing fluid. 25% more stuff compared to the blue.
You ought to be able to get a hydraulic hose made up with compression fittings to fit the steel lines. We get these made up all the time to repair steel line/hose combinations on tractors and combines.
Try Summit Racing. They have a spectacular web site and mail order. I used their compression fittings to go from 1/2" steel pipe to braided hydraulic hose, and back again, when I installed my remote transmission cooler. I believe the correct size for the fittings is AN8. Unfortunately they are not cheap. But they are easy to install and very good quality.
John
John
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MJDiesel
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