Subliminal

Hey folks,

So, a few weeks ago my tranny broke. The rear section of the housing broke in two and my transfer case ended up sitting on the skid-plate.

So, I figure I'm the market for a new tranny, and the auto in the truck almost kept me from buying it. Ended up buying it anyway, because it was just in too nice of shape...

So, anyway, I'm talking to this guy who has a motorless 92 with the Getrag business in it, and he's going to crate up the parts and shoot them my way.

The transmission is in good working order
The transfer case is included (I understand the auto/manual is different...splines)
The pedals/cylinder/crossmember is included.

Now, I know I need to get a clutch, I'm thinking Napa...although I have to research further.

I'm a little concerned about the driveshafts..? I believe that they are different from auto to manual, but not really sure how. Splines different? Different length? Both?

And if they are different, and if I can't ship the driveshafts, what is my next option? Honestly, I'm not even too worried about the front shaft, as I'd be fine with just running around with rear wheel drive for a while.

Anyway, anything else anyone can tell me would be greatly appreciated. I'd hate to have a few thousand dollars worth of parts crated across the country and find out I still need stuff to get my truck up and running.

Thanks,

damon

Rick 12v CTD

I would just go straight to a decent clutch but that's just me. I would think the getrag driveshaft for the rear would be longer than the 518, and I'd suspect the front to be a different length too. I'm sure someone else will chime in with definite answers soon though.

1STGENFARMBOY

1st Get a good cluch, 2nd i have read alot of posts on auto to 5spd conversions as i want to do one someday and a have never read where there were any drive shaft problems, just bell housing, pedels, flywheel, transfercase, and a few small things.

Crossy's son

don't cheap out on the clutch.

If you can afford it. Get the Soutbend Con-O (that will be plenty for you), it comes with the brand new flywheel.

Or you could do what i'm doing and run a 6 speed flywheel, a starter spacer, and open up clutch selection ALOT. Any 3rd gen clutch would work at that ponit.

Honestly though, the "Precision" 13" replacement clutch you get from Advance auto is less than $200 and looks EXACTLY like the factory 1st gen Sachs clutch which is said to be an awesome clutch if not abused.

Im not sure what you plan on doing in the HP/TQ department later on but overclutch is better than not enough....

Subliminal

My plans are to max out the fuel screw and that's about it. Not much, really. Too much house to worry about sinking money into my truck. ;-)

I'm really more concerned with making the conversion go smoothly, as I don't know where to get any local used parts (none of my normal junkyards have squat, and I'd hate to have a new tranny in without driveshafts.

Thanks for the replies, though! I'll definitely put some research in on some clutches.

Trebor

Logically speaking if the wheelbases of the two trucks are the same, the donor shafts that you would have to buy from the other truck should fit. This would be either as standard cab to standard cab or club cab to club cab. Then if that is the same, if the rear drive shaft is the two piece design on the donor you would need to get the donors crossmember and bearing support mount along with the drive shafts. Think of it as cloning your truck into the donors configuration whenever the wheelbases & body types match. On driveshafts it generally cheaper to have one shortened and balanced than having one lengthened. Driveshaft tubing is currently priced around $10-12 per foot depending on sizes (3" & 4") I have one in the local driveshaft shop for the crew cab project at the current time.

Philip

A getrag from the engine block to the Tcase mount is 27.5".

A 518 from the engine block to Tcase mount is 32.75"

You will need some drive shaft work.

Billut

yep, you will need some driveshaft work and you can use $150 per shaft as a ballpark, and if you're not comfortable with measuring what you need, then you might want to let the driveshaft shop figure it out for you.

Subliminal

So, it sounds, from Philip's measurements, that the rear shaft is 5.25" longer on the 360 than the 518?

I just need to find a decent driveshaft shop round central NJ, which is probably going to be tougher than it should.

Anything else anyone can think of that I might run into?