Here goes.
After considerable reading, searching, and clicking on the heroic posts of our hardcore VE bombers (Stomp, Ol Smoky, Wannadiesel, among others) I've developed a plan of action for the elusive 400 hp number. I'll start with what we have accomplished so far, and what I've got planned.

Current engine combo:
1. POD Injectors
2. Stock downpipe into 4" pipe; unmuffled. (completely obnoxious, but it's not my truck)
3. Stock hair dryer w\18 cm housing.
4. 3200 rpm spring, AFC cone turned to the little part, shaved washer, star wheel wound all the way down, this was was of those pumps that the full fuel screw didn't do anything on. With the magic of TIG welding and a file, it works now. Re-indexed the throttle lever one spline towards louder.
5. K&N in stock air box modified with much larger hole.
Performance with these items is remarkable. Peak boost is 40 p.s.i. (am aware this is not optimal for turbo, or anything else for that matter) Truck completely blows off tires into third. Haze at idle into volcano smoke into still considerable smoke at full boost. Goes much faster than speedo.
My butt dyno says 275-300 hp possibly at this time. Pure conjecture from riding in p-pump trucks of comparable speed I've seen real numbers for.

My additions list:
1. HTBG turbo. I like the upgrade for 200$ idea.
2. Ol Smoky fuel pin and washer.
3. 4" exhust all the way
4. Big banjo bolts and fuel pressure fitting.

Truck already has BD low stall, transgo kit, blue plates and kolenes, line pressure as far as it will go and still shift normally. rest of drive train good.

Am I missing any thing? Fuel supply line size an issue at this time? Think it will do it?

This you guys and this site has been great. Also got me the link to SAE to get the VE pump book. The best 20$ you will spend.

Thanks,
Jon

 

Pyro? Temps at WOT? Cruising, etc.

 

ooops.
forgot pyro temps.
cruise is 700-800
full blast around 1700. don't keep it there too long.
truck doesn't tow or haul anything, ever. It is a toy.

Thanks
Jon

 

Go back in the pump and grind the AFC lever.
Get the piston lift pump, I think the fuel supply was holding me back last weekend since the power started dropping off around 2500 RPM.
Still gonna be toasty even with the HTT hybrid, my pyro pegged on the #2 only run.
Gotta get you a water/meth system.

edit: I would say you are probably around 250 HP/700 ft# currently.

 

Wondered if that was enough turbo to get the EGT to sane levels. We were thinking nitrous ourselves, as a local guy refills the bottles economically. Hobbs switch to come on at 25 pounds of boost or so, jetted for "50 horsepower", although that is a nebulous term at best. Saw some previous posts on the piston transfer pump conversion, will research that.

Thanks
Jon

 

Well you are off to a good start. Wanna is right about the hybrid turbo. It is a nice upgrade, but it isn’t going to provide enough cooling for that much fuel. I dynoed 320hp on #2 or so with my stock H1C w/12 housing. 1800+ degrees. I switched to a full Piers HX40/16 and got 419hp on #2 with no other fueling mods. I did do a 4" exhaust and a went to an open intake system. Even with a full HX40 I was still having issues with egt's. I was limiting the turbo to 40 psi, but the wastegate was not big enough to keep the pressure that low. I was going to 45psi. Then blew my headgasket. Now here is where everything gets expensive. So I replaced the old head with a stage 2+ ported/polished/o-ringed head from Piers. That helped bring the boost down a bit and it dropped my egt's 200+ degrees. I was still hitting around 1500* on the pyro. So I went to twins. With my stock pump I was 440hp at 1100* and with my new KTA special pump I am 541hp at 1200*. I also do most of my driving at sea level. When I go to my parents house in Oregon my max temps are around 1400-1500*. I have never ran NOS, but I can recommend water/meth. It does help bring the egt's down if you run more water than meth. At a 50/50 mix my temps don’t go down, but they don’t get any hotter than what I see on diesel only on a wide open run. It will also give you a nice kick in HP. Remember that with water/meth you will see better result if you have more air that fuel.

Old pump= about 100hp w/ h2o/meth
New pump= 66 hp w/ h2o/meth

In conclusion I think your biggest hold back is your turbo. Is your ultimate goal to get 400hp on diesel only or 400hp max with some help with water/meth or NOS? If you let us know that we can steer you in the right direction. I hope this helps or gives you an idea of what you need to do.

Stomp

 

Thanks for the replys, guys.
I'm looking at 400 on the motor. I am a old Turbo Buick guy, and have experience with nitrous and water/meth in the gasoline end of the turbo pond. The nitrous is just a personal prefrence, and would be a pulling surface safety net to keep the EGT down towards the end of the hook. You could run a lot more timing in a Turbo Buick with a "50 horse" shot. Some of my acquaintances utilize the "if i don't look at the EGT, It won't get too hot" pull strategy, but my burgeoning scuffed piston and head gasket collection in the shop would deem otherwise.

So, my current turbo choice is a little small. Ok, lemme ask this one. I know there is no free lunch,
but is there a turbo out there that offers the airflow I need with good driveability? I see some newer designs available, but this this new territory for me. I see some ball bearing stuff out there, and some new turbine and compressor technology also. If it costs 500 bucks more for a much better product, so be it. I'm open to suggestion.

Head work is a wild card. You know the scene in the garage, the usual suspects are lined up on the fenders and grille, staring into the engine bay.
"Y' know, that intake setup looks terrible."
"not much you could do, it's cast into the head except for the lid"
"you could saw it off and make a indvidual runner intake"





Lo, and behold, the Banks boys already tried something, then it got quiet.
Hell, I heard concerns that some thing fabricated would blow up. Its going on a 1000 lb engine,
make it out of 3/16" steel.
On Turbo regals the intake design blows too much air into the rear two holes, now on a gas motor, that causes them to lean out , which causes detonation, a uncontrolled combustion of the air/fuel mixture. This either blows the head gasket, melts the piston, or in a turbo regal, cracks the main webs.


To combat this a company bulit a plate that bolted between the upper and lower plenum that has hoes that are sized to restrict air to the rear two cylinders. I think this idea has merit on the CTD as you could TIG air dams to the bottom of the plenum cover to even out the air to all six holes. Its not as good as a new manifiold, but would be better.
thanks
Jon