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RWAL valve bypass- anyone here already do this?

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Old 09-03-2014, 10:20 AM
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Anyone that wants to send me their defective ABS hydraulic units instead of throwing it in the trash, I'll take it.
Old 09-03-2014, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by thrashingcows
If you bypass the RWAL valve you will only have GREAT brakes!! Make sure you disconnect the black box behind the glove box as well.

And when you have to do an emergency stop...it will stop like any other vehicle with no ABS...lock up all the wheels and slide!

Here is the Bypass...I looked for the thread so I could give credit where credit is due....Think it was J.Martin? who posted this up. I had snipped it for my photo album for quick reference.

Trashin- when you say "locked up wheels and slide" this sounds like a dangerous thing. If it is why do so many reccomend removing/bypassing the rwal?
Old 09-03-2014, 02:59 PM
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The brakes will work like any other vehicle that does not have any ABS type system on it. So if you stand on the brakes...all the tires will lock up. There will be no modulating of the brake pressure to keep certain wheels from locking up.

The RWAL valve is a common failure in these trucks. It only effects the rear brakes, and is a constant source of poor brake pedal pressure, and brake fade. Most people just get so fed up with this un-reliable, and problematic system, that they would rather deal with the rear brakes locking up in a hard brake application situation, then deal with the unpredictability of having the RWAL system hooked up.
Old 09-03-2014, 03:07 PM
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Yeah but if you have ever been doing loopty loops on a wet highway in one of these behemoths it will make you think twice.
Old 09-03-2014, 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Angry Johnny
Yeah but if you have ever been doing loopty loops on a wet highway in one of these behemoths it will make you think twice.
This is the only truck I ever had RWAL on and I hated it. In 37 years of driving trucks My dodge brakes are by far the most dangerous. You can't even compensate because you have no idea what it is going to do.
Old 09-03-2014, 04:21 PM
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Mknittle, see that you and I are neighbors. We're going to have to have a 1st gen get together
Old 09-03-2014, 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by bigragu
Mknittle, see that you and I are neighbors. We're going to have to have a 1st gen get together
That's cool. Sounds good. I know there are a bunch of first gens in the area.
we may have even seen each other.
Old 09-03-2014, 07:44 PM
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Hey you two...


Stop getting all frisky and stuff. This is a family site, you know...













Old 09-03-2014, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by mknittle
This is the only truck I ever had RWAL on and I hated it. In 37 years of driving trucks My dodge brakes are by far the most dangerous. You can't even compensate because you have no idea what it is going to do.

I must agree; 1st Gen. Dodge brakes, gas or diesel, are nothing to brag about.
Old 09-03-2014, 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by NJTman
Hey you two...


Stop getting all frisky and stuff. This is a family site, you know...













You're just jealous?
Old 09-03-2014, 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by BearKiller
I must agree; 1st Gen. Dodge brakes, gas or diesel, are nothing to brag about.
That goes back as long as I can remember.
Old 09-03-2014, 09:23 PM
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I don't like ABS on anything. All my old 70's PowerWagon's didn't have them and I had to pump the brakes on snow covered roads or in a panic stop, but that makes for a better driver in my opinion. Today's cars and trucks have to "drive" for us because the public has become "dim". In the next year or so all new cars will have back up cameras since it takes too long to walk around your ride to make sure you won't run over stuff or your depth perception can't be determined on some smart phone APP.

If you like the RWAL then fix it, if you can pump your brakes (and more importantly know when to do so) then do away with it if it malfunctions. I will note that in some states (like PA) if it is on the vehicle from the factory it needs to be there and functioning to pass the annual safety inspection.
Old 09-04-2014, 01:30 AM
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Well I feel good for removing the rwal with all the positive feedback received from this post. My plan was to get the system re bled this evening but I had to repair my burnt out converter in my trailer. So tomorrow after work bleed time. Can't wait to see what good brakes are going to feel like on this dodge. So far, in the last month, this is what I've done in an attempt to get awsome brakes- 1. New 3" shoes 2. New drum brake hardware(springs, adjusters, etc) 3. 1 1/8" wheel cylinders. 4. New reman brake booster 5. 5 years ago all brake lines swapped to stainless braided 6. New DOT 4 brake fluid and system flushed 7. RWAL valve deleted 7. Depending on the end result, new master cylinder on hand to install. Hopefully mine is still good. It's a raybestos purchased new 4 years ago. I redid my front brakes with all new seals, bearings, rotors, and raybestos pads 3 months ago. Hopefully all this will get rid of mushy pedal, creeping while stopped at an intersection, and mostly having to apply excessive pressure with my entire foot just so I don't rear end someone in bumper to bumper rush hour traffic. Been driving my wife's old 98 Camry and in traffic slow and go all that's needed is my big toe and worse case the ball of my foot, that's all! 1st gen brakes build up your quads and calves!! I'll keep you all posted with my end results. Thank you all for the input
Old 09-04-2014, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by bigragu
Well I feel good for removing the rwal with all the positive feedback received from this post. My plan was to get the system re bled this evening but I had to repair my burnt out converter in my trailer. So tomorrow after work bleed time. Can't wait to see what good brakes are going to feel like on this dodge. So far, in the last month, this is what I've done in an attempt to get awsome brakes- 1. New 3" shoes 2. New drum brake hardware(springs, adjusters, etc) 3. 1 1/8" wheel cylinders. 4. New reman brake booster 5. 5 years ago all brake lines swapped to stainless braided 6. New DOT 4 brake fluid and system flushed 7. RWAL valve deleted 7. Depending on the end result, new master cylinder on hand to install. Hopefully mine is still good. It's a raybestos purchased new 4 years ago. I redid my front brakes with all new seals, bearings, rotors, and raybestos pads 3 months ago. Hopefully all this will get rid of mushy pedal, creeping while stopped at an intersection, and mostly having to apply excessive pressure with my entire foot just so I don't rear end someone in bumper to bumper rush hour traffic. Been driving my wife's old 98 Camry and in traffic slow and go all that's needed is my big toe and worse case the ball of my foot, that's all! 1st gen brakes build up your quads and calves!! I'll keep you all posted with my end results. Thank you all for the input
sounds good. I will be doing the same to mine. I don't think I will know how to act with brakes that work
Old 09-05-2014, 01:35 AM
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So I see a big difference with the brake system on my truck. I feel it could be better cause I feel the majority of the difference is coming from that new booster I installed. I may have a little bit of air in my lines to actually "feel" the value from disconnecting the rwal valve. So what are the signs for still having slight air in system? Can some e school me on why I can't get the pedal to feel as strong as it does when I'm pushing on it with the truck off? The moment the truck is turned it falls down slightly about 3/4 the entire distance down and it holds steady. I'd sure like it to stay as solid in pressure like before I start the truck


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