What are the pros and cons? If highly suggested to do so, what type of fittings are required for a clean install and where to get these parts. If not highly re commended, where does one find a replacement? To those of you that have bypassed it, what happened when you needed to slam on your brakes in an emergency situation?

 

If you bypass the RWAL valve you will only have GREAT brakes!! Make sure you disconnect the black box behind the glove box as well.

And when you have to do an emergency stop...it will stop like any other vehicle with no ABS...lock up all the wheels and slide!

Here is the Bypass...I looked for the thread so I could give credit where credit is due....Think it was J.Martin? who posted this up. I had snipped it for my photo album for quick reference.

 

THANKS to ALL CONCERNED !!! wherever that picture came from.

That parts list is something I had been needing for years.

I went way out of the box when I deleted the RWAL on the wife's truck; I removed the entire unit from under the truck, brought it in to the bench, took it apart, and gutted it.

Once I had made the RWAL nothing more than a fat section of brake-line, I re-installed it and bled the brakes.

Before this modification, her rear brakes were doing nothing at all; the front brakes were all the brakes the truck had, warping and cracking rotors and eating up pads.

I even put the rear on stands, put the wheels in gear, and had her hit the brakes several times--- there was absolutely no rear brake action whatsoever.

Now, it works as it should and the truck STOPS.

 

I deleted mine too. I ran a new line from the proportioning valve back to the axle hose. Brakes work great. I don't like rear anti lock though so its a personal preference. When you stand on the brakes the tires will slide.

 

I've been having some good success with an adjustable proportioning valve. The rear wheels were locking up with 100% out of the MC. After installing an adjustable p-valve from jegs my front would lock up. I would believe this is the concept you would want, that way the rear is not turning you sideways. Of course this is all based on traction.. the rears will lockup in icy conditions. Causing the truck to turn right or left. RWAL help in this aspect by keeping the wheels turning. I haven't experience the winter yet and maybe some guys can chime in. I'm thinking about reducing the p-valve all the way down and see how it acts on snow. I'm assuming the front should grab first then the rear without friction.

 

I used the same type of valve on my jeep. it takes a bit of experimenting.
I set mine so the brakes were even front to back in loose gravel. Then scribed a line on the **** so if I have to move it I know how much and witch way.

 

You have a part number for that JEGS product? Straight in line bolt on? Is this used in addition to the rwal valve delete?

 

T-cows, thanks for the complement. It wasn't my thread. I posted #75

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...t130835p5.html

 

i got to say as long as it is allowing fluid to still go through it and the rear brake to function properly i would leave it alone and connected. they really don't do much at all but if you play around with stomping on the brakes and locking thins up you will most likely start noticing the pedal pulse when you lock up the brakes. now if it not allowing the rear brakes to work properly i would ditch it because replacing it would be a waste of money.

 

I didn't think it was you who started the thread...but glad I was right about you being the one who posted up this great info!

 

j martin's fittings are also available at AMAZON, sold and shipped by Amazon, for a couple bucks apiece; Eaton/Weatherhead.

I just looked them up last night and put them in a "wish list".

Just type them in the search bar just as they are described and they will come up.

 

Well, I guess I should be grateful that mine actually works.


I felt it do the pumpin the other day when I slammed on them due to some acorn running out in front of me


(stupid squirrel)

 

Me too!!...Mark

 

Mine is a wildwood but this is the same. It goes in the rear brake line after the balance valve(if you use one). and yes it works with the RWAL delete. what it does is create a adjustable restriction to delay the rear brakes from applying.


http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performan...rPage=90&pno=1

 

Mine is downright dangerous!! It locks and then releases completely. Sometimes for to 10 feet or more. then repeats this cycle. so I simply do not trust it. I understand the thought behind it. but for me. I have no use for a car/truck that doesn't allow me to control what it is doing.