I've starter resealing the VE pump from my 93 Cummins. It's going ok. I did damage a couple of orings during assembly. One was the largest oring on the back of the pump. I used mineral oil as a lubricant. Is there something else you folks would recommend that would help keep the orings that slide into a bore, better protected?

I am still uploading pics as I make progress and still have to add narrative to each pic. Here is where I'm keeping it all. http://rotordesign.com/1993cummins/

Thanks,

Mike

 

That big O-ring can be a pain to get into the bore. I put a bit of STP oil treatment on it and lower it down until the O-ring is resting on the bore. Then with slight down pressure I go around the O-ring and push on it lightly with the curved back side of one of my metal picks. It takes a little effort but it will eventually drop in.

 

Is STP particularly slippery?

 

STP is what my pump shop told me to use.
Andy Granatelli used to do a television commerical about how slippery his STP was, you couldn't hold on to a screwdriver dipped in it.

Also rather than using metal picks use wooden or bamboo skewers to manipulate the o-rings, bamboo will not cut the o-ring or scratch the finished surfaces.
A very wise person told me this along time ago.

Jim

 

Welll....i used vasoline and everything sliped right in....or so i hope...guess we'll find out when i get it put back on and it leaks out the back...

 

Depending on just where inside the pump the seal goes, I use mostly 3-in-1 machine-oil.

I use vaseline to keep that little washer-spacer captive in the plunger recess and to keep those two springs captive within the head.

I use STP on the fuel-pin and it's O-ring.

On the first pump I did, I used the 3-in-1 oil on the big O-ring with no problems whatsoever.

I used vaseline on some with equally good results.

As best I recall, I think I used STP on the big O-ring on my most recent reseal job and it also worked fine.


Thus far, I haven't had a drip in a resealed pump yet.

I like to really slick up wherever any O-ring goes and also really slick up the O-ring; thus, the O-ring is more apt to un-twist any kinks and return to it's natural shape, once it is seated in whatever groove or recess it goes in.

 

Thanks for bringing up that shim. I didn't see it. I'll look in my head to see if it's still in there. I see it's #52 on the blow up diagram. I did use vaseline for the 2 springs. I'll use it on the shim once I find it. I bet it's still up inside the bore.

I thought for sure mineral oil would be good enough. The only reason I found out the huge head oring was damaged was because I told myself that since this was my first time, I'd better pull it apart and take a 2nd look. Otherwise I would not have known. It actually had 2 bites taken out of it. The second oring I damaged was the one on the kfb valve brass plug. The plug was screwing in fine then suddenly felt like the oring lost it's grip on the bore. It felt like it slipped. So I pulled it out and sure enough it was sheared big time.

When I hear back from the pump shop this morning I will ask them what they use.

Here are the pics of the damaged orings.

 

Jim, you once commented in your thread about why the fuel screw threads were always damaged. I found out why here. http://rotordesign.com/1993cummins/p...elivery-screw/

I'll get a bottle of STP. I must of been watching cartoons instead of racing.

I wonder if toothpicks would work?

I use packing tape to cover long threaded items to protect the orings during install. Some kits I use to get years ago had these thin straw looking items in them for the same reason. Here is a pic in my blog. http://rotordesign.com/1993cummins/p...elivery-screw/

I wonder if anyone had ever unscrewed their pump head a bit to see if they were successful in not damaging an oring?

 

The pump shop just told me they use something similar to STP called Syncut. It's from a pump manufacturer. He says to just use STP. Plus he doesn't have any Syntech in stock.

The replacement orings separately are about $14. The head oring alone was $8.50. So I ordered another kit for $28. The ksb orings are NOT INCLUDED with the kit he tells me, so I ordered them as well.

Rush hour is upon us or I'd make the 40 mile drive each way to pick up the parts myself.

Mike

 

Any tips on how to remove the front main seal? any pics? I have a seal remover, but it's for larger seals. It might work. With another kit coming, I will have 2 shots at it.

Mike

 

I just used a long screw driver and hit it out from the backside. Be careful not to gouge the bushing

 

I was hoping to simplify things by not tearing down the pump that far. Is there anything inside that I really need to see? So far the pump looks sterile inside. It ran great, just leaked.

Hoping to pull the seal out from the front.

 

Two little self tapping screws and little slide hammer?

 

I removed one front seal from the front, with the shaft still in place...it sucked big time!! Easier to just pull the internals out of the pump and pop it out from the inside...makes re-installing it much easier as well.

You already have the head off...the rest comes out easily. Just take lots of pics as you take it apart, and lay everything out in a clean, organised maner.

 

Screws? Why not.

This is a tool a few guys have used to get the front seal out from the front.