Replace Your Front DANA/Spicer Axle Universal Joints
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Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 129
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From: Tracy, CA
Alternate PN on the U-joints for those ( like me) had a helluva time finding the SPL55-4X. I couldn't even find a local dealer that carried Dana/Spicer anymore. ( Precision Ujoints everywhere 
)
Looks like the 5-733X are still available on EBay for $46 a pop. (for now)
New Cold Forged joint (Spicer calls these the "Spicer Life Series" )
Greasable: Spicer SPL55-4x also called 5-733x
Permanently Sealed: SPL55-3x, also called 5-806-x
)Looks like the 5-733X are still available on EBay for $46 a pop. (for now)
New Cold Forged joint (Spicer calls these the "Spicer Life Series" )
Greasable: Spicer SPL55-4x also called 5-733x
Permanently Sealed: SPL55-3x, also called 5-806-x
(From Pirate 4x4)
This is the Spicer Life Series 1480 series u-joint in greasable version. The older part number is Spicer part #: 5-733X, which has been superceded by part # SPL55-4x. They are the exact same part. Some shops are referring to these u-joints as "snap-tight" because the new triple-locks seal is so good, the caps snap on really tightly. Indeed, when I installed the u-joints, I had to use channel-lock pliers to remove the bearing caps from the trunnions - I couldn't pull them off by hand - that's how good the seals are.
This is the Spicer Life Series 1480 series u-joint in greasable version. The older part number is Spicer part #: 5-733X, which has been superceded by part # SPL55-4x. They are the exact same part. Some shops are referring to these u-joints as "snap-tight" because the new triple-locks seal is so good, the caps snap on really tightly. Indeed, when I installed the u-joints, I had to use channel-lock pliers to remove the bearing caps from the trunnions - I couldn't pull them off by hand - that's how good the seals are.
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 129
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From: Tracy, CA
Oh, and another source of the hub socket. Kragen/Orielly carries "Powerbuilt" tool line. Part number is 648477. Its a 2 1/2 inch 4 prong socket in 1/2" drive. Cost was about $20
Thanks BC for the write-up, it helped quite a bit.
Thanks BC for the write-up, it helped quite a bit.
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 42
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where could I get a bearing puller?
I was looking for a bearing puller that would pull the spindle bearing. THanks to the sticky I found that is how you get that bearing out.
-
- Now take the spindle and clean both ends. I used a cotton cloth to wipe away the grease. Look real hard at the needle bearing for any signs of abnormal wear. If it came apart on you, or you're in doubt, replace it. You'll need a bearing puller to get it out as well as possibly a special tool to install a new one though I imagine a socket will work. ~
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- Now take the spindle and clean both ends. I used a cotton cloth to wipe away the grease. Look real hard at the needle bearing for any signs of abnormal wear. If it came apart on you, or you're in doubt, replace it. You'll need a bearing puller to get it out as well as possibly a special tool to install a new one though I imagine a socket will work. ~
.
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Joined: Feb 2010
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Great write up for sure. I can say first hand make sure you clean the tubes out with a large boiler brush and solvent. also I made a tool with a piece or heavy sheet metal that I bent to help support the axle in the tube as you slide it in. If you catch the inner seals with the axle you'll be tearing into it again but in a bigger way!!
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