My VE injector pump is leaking between the pump and the distribution plate badly.

A friend (has done this before) and I are going to tear it down and check it out, then put the new seals in.

My question is are there online sites to get the parts from? If so where?

I have part #s for the 3200rpm spring, compression spring, seal kit and the rollers.

Is there anything else you guys think I should do to it?

I have no clue what was done to it before I got the truck. I know the pump is turned up a tad but I don't know if the injectors have been changed. I have a 3 1/2" exhaust from the down pipe back with a summit racing bullet muffler.

Any help and advice is very welcome.

Thanks

 

I know of no online sites to get parts. Just find a bosch authorized parts dealer, and if you have part numbers they can provide it for you Also just get the re-seal kit, dgk-121, I believe.

 

Thanks

 

I order parts from these guys:

www.jhdiesel.com

If you want to do a rebuild check this thread. Its a 4 cylinder but is no different otherwise. Just add 2 more ports.

http://www.vwdieselparts.com/forum/v...abd43b2af575b0

Be aware that there is not really a need to remove the governor or the main shaft and supply pump. In fact all you need to do is remove the top cover and replace the orings. Remove the head and replace that oring and remove the timing advance covers and replace those orings. Finally remove the front seal and replace it.

The rollers don't wear out.

 

Thanks for the info, that's great. My friend used to do this for a living and is going to "show" me how to do it. so. I just need to get the parts and find time to get over there to get it done.

 

If you want a quick and easy fix you don't even have to remove the pump to replace the oring on the head. I have done a few this way. If your friend has done a few of these pumps he will know how to do this.

Be sure your pump is level front to back. Move the truck if necessary. Remove the injector lines and remove the hardware and 4 screws from the head on the rear of the pump. Carefully pull the head rearward and have a rag under it to catch any parts. As soon as the head clears the housing lower it a bit and bring it out. Hopefully you did not make the rollers fall out of place. Then replace the oring and put some grease on the little button on the center shaft to hold it in place. Be sure springs are and stay in place. Rotate the governor so the hole is at the top. Carefully assemble it feeling to see if the pin went into the governor hole before pushing it home.

I would not try it this way if it is your first time but if you have done a few pumps you know what to look for(feel for).

It also may help if you use a dial indicator or pin in the center hole of the head. Rotate the engine till the dial indicator reaches minimum or pin goes in the most. If you do this before you start sometimes it helps to hold things in place and make it easier. Less pressure on the springs.

 

That sounds like a means of disaster for me. LOL.........

I have never done one before and my friend recommended taking it off to do this.

Plus I would really like to see how it looks inside and make sure things are good.

I'm going to get a 3200 spring for it also I was told that a new fuel pin is a good idea and they are around a $110 an bump the HP up 20-40hp with no MPG effect.

I'm still learning these things so bare with me.

 

Moved this to the 1st gen board for you, you're among friends now.

Take a look at the sticky in this forum, you will find step-by-step directions and exploded diagrams with part numbers.

 

Ok thanks. I though I was in the 1st gen section.. LOL........

 

The fuel pin is very small and I don't see why someone would charge that much.

Talk to your friend and I bet he will tell you the fuel pin is a waste as well.

All you need to do is rotate the diaphragm, adjust the star wheel and adjust the fuel screw. The diaphragm has a cone shaped rod that the fuel pin rides on. It is ground different as you turn it. This is how you adjust the fueling of the pin to the turbo pressure. Be sure to mark the original position accurately before you start messing around.

Have you even tried to adjust the star wheel yet? This is what I would do first. Messing with the fuel pin or the diaphragm can get things out of wack real fast.

 

Got it.

 

He is talking about what you call the cone shaped rod... The Bosch schematics call it the "adjusting pin". Everyone else is calling it a fuel pin.

 

OK I'm going to get a detailed breakdown of the pump somewhere so i know how things come apart and go back together.

 

It's all in the sticky.

 

I will look for it thanks.

[edit] I looked, I saw, I am overwhelmed with info now.....

That's too much info for one sitting........... LOL.

You guys did a great job at listing that info it awesome thanks.