1st Gen. Ram - All Topics Discussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.

Reasons "BRAKE!" and "ANTI-LOCK" lights are on?

Old Oct 24, 2009 | 12:33 PM
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Reasons "BRAKE!" and "ANTI-LOCK" lights are on?

When snakes were hissing under the dash, and my brake booster was bad, these 2 lights would fade on slowly. I've replaced my booster and master cylinder and now the 2 lights are ALWAYS on. Vacuum seems fine, as the truck stops GREAT now. The vacuum line going to the pressure sensor on the fender looks very new and supple. No cracks.

Any other reason's they would be on other than low vacuum?
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Old Oct 24, 2009 | 12:58 PM
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I'll check better in a while, but I believe that the FSM says that when it stays on it has a stored fault code. Ground the black wire like the sticky says and count all flashes...Mark

Last edited by maybe368; Oct 24, 2009 at 12:58 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old Oct 24, 2009 | 01:22 PM
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bleed the breaks when i put the line lock on it did this too
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Old Oct 24, 2009 | 01:25 PM
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Here is what the FSM has to say about it

http://www.dieselbombers.com/1st-gen...iagnostic.html
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Old Oct 24, 2009 | 05:13 PM
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Check for air in the system. I had a shop bleed my brakes,and the lights are gone.
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Old Oct 24, 2009 | 05:26 PM
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"The vacuum seems fine" is no way to tell... I would recommend checking the vacuum and see if it meets the minimum for the vacuum sensor to trigger the light. 8hg. IIRC is the minimum. Someone correct me if I am wrong please...
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Old Oct 24, 2009 | 06:03 PM
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Thanks guys. I never knew they had this way of seeingcodes on the non ic trucks.

There is still a little air in the lines, I can feel it when I pump once. Hopefully it's that.

I'm running just one vacuum pod for now with the bottom one blanked off. However, with it just hanging there (so not working) AND the booster leak, the 2 lights would fade slowly on and off depending on RPM. I'm PRETTY confident Vacuum is 8"Hg or better, but I'll check anyway. I'm putting money on a little more air (hurried bleed) in the RWAL unit.

Also, if I understand correct you must disconnect the battery for 30+ seconds to clear a code anyway or ground something.... I'll do that too.

Thanks for all the great tips guys, and the pdf's RSWORDS.
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Old Oct 25, 2009 | 11:46 AM
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8in hg is the minimum vacuum you should see. a good vacuum is about 18in hg. i have 20in hg on mine even after removing the lower diaphragm.
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Old Oct 25, 2009 | 11:16 PM
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i pulled the bulbs and now mine are off
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Old Oct 26, 2009 | 01:13 AM
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I just removed that box from behind the glove compartment.
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Old Oct 26, 2009 | 08:29 PM
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Ha... it's because of these two lights that I didn't realize my parking brake was on during my dyno run!!

It's nice also cause it will tell if your fluid level is getting low I think.
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Old Oct 26, 2009 | 11:00 PM
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idk what fluids it would tell you about but yea ive toasted the ole back brakes a few times with the ebrake on so i understand where your comin from.
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