1st Gen. Ram - All Topics Discussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.

Rear Wheel Seals

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Old Nov 1, 2014 | 09:54 PM
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From: Tijeras, New Mexico, 7,000ft up
Rear Wheel Seals

So my brake drums are wet with gear oil, time to change the seals.
Probably change the bearings while I am at it, and convert to disc.
Not looking forward to any of it!
Never had the drums off because the adjusters don't work so the brakes never wore out. I just adjusted them once in a while but they would come out of adjustment pretty quickly.
Since they are "so easy to get to" I just lived with it.
Now, I can't!


Any tips?
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Old Nov 1, 2014 | 10:04 PM
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Personally I wouldn't waste my money on a rear disc conversion, you really don't need it.

Get all new parts, drums, hardware and adjuster. Upgrade to the 1 ton shoes and wheel cylinders, and you should have years of trouble free driving for probably under $200.

Make sure you have the drums checked for even "Roundness" (?). I wish I had done that before I installed my new front rotors. Will do it from now on for drums and rotors.
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Old Nov 1, 2014 | 10:38 PM
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From: Tijeras, New Mexico, 7,000ft up
I have the Eldorado calipers and the brackets already, just not the K2 rotors.
What don't you like about your disc setup?
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Old Nov 2, 2014 | 02:20 AM
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Originally Posted by mhuppertz
What don't you like about your disc setup?
Nothing, it was the best move I ever made concerning the brakes. The egr kit is a bolt on, without any permanent modification to the truck, except welding on the brake line bracket. But, with any grinder, it is not really permanent either. I still have the complete drum setup, with all relatively new parts, so that my heirs can pass them along to the new owner. The only real requirement is that you use the parking brake, that is how the calipers are adjusted...Mark
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Old Nov 2, 2014 | 08:07 AM
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From: Tijeras, New Mexico, 7,000ft up
My brackets bolt on, so I could always go back if I wanted to. Those drums weigh a ton, and it is antiquated tech. I have never had drum brakes on any vehicle where the "self adjusters" worked, and I just don't want the hassle of trying to keep them adjusted all the time.
On my truck the results have been front brake only scariness and frequent pad/rotor replacement.
Tired of it. I will keep all the drum stuff for originality just in case my son wants to restore it to factory, but I don't think I will miss the buggy brakes much at all.
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Old Nov 2, 2014 | 08:23 AM
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I will probably build a disk set up for mine some day. but I am going for the 1 ton for now.
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Old Nov 2, 2014 | 09:39 AM
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From: Buies Creek, NC
Originally Posted by mhuppertz
So my brake drums are wet with gear oil, time to change the seals.

Any tips?
Don't forget to clean out the axle vent.


Speaking of the Cadillac Eldorado disc conversion, I did such seven years ago. They've worked well for me.

They do result in about an inch or so increase in pedal stroke however. I've never cared for that. To fix that, I've recently replaced the master-cylinder with that from a 1983 B350 (gasser). Our stock/OEM MC has a bore of 1.125". The B350 has a bore of 1.325". A notable increase in fluid moved, with the same stroke length. The end result is a more acceptable (shorter) pedal stroke. BIG improvement in my mess.
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Old Nov 2, 2014 | 05:43 PM
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From: Land of the Toxic Avenger
Originally Posted by BC847
To fix that, I've recently replaced the master-cylinder with that from a 1983 B350 (gasser). Our stock/OEM MC has a bore of 1.125". The B350 has a bore of 1.325". A notable increase in fluid moved, with the same stroke length. The end result is a more acceptable (shorter) pedal stroke. BIG improvement in my mess.
And you didn't tell us this sooner ????



or did you, and I just wasn't listening....

I guess I'll just have to try this on my stock drummed pig and see if I drive through a wall, or stop on an ant farm in the middle of a raging highway full of traffic...
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Old Nov 2, 2014 | 08:34 PM
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From: Tijeras, New Mexico, 7,000ft up
Originally Posted by BC847
Don't forget to clean out the axle vent.


Speaking of the Cadillac Eldorado disc conversion, I did such seven years ago. They've worked well for me.

They do result in about an inch or so increase in pedal stroke however. I've never cared for that. To fix that, I've recently replaced the master-cylinder with that from a 1983 B350 (gasser). Our stock/OEM MC has a bore of 1.125". The B350 has a bore of 1.325". A notable increase in fluid moved, with the same stroke length. The end result is a more acceptable (shorter) pedal stroke. BIG improvement in my mess.


Awesome bomb David! Thanks. I will do the same.
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Old Nov 2, 2014 | 10:07 PM
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From: Prince George, BC
Originally Posted by NJTman
And you didn't tell us this sooner ????



or did you, and I just wasn't listening....

I guess I'll just have to try this on my stock drummed pig and see if I drive through a wall, or stop on an ant farm in the middle of a raging highway full of traffic...
I agree...that is some darn good info!!
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Old Nov 4, 2014 | 11:20 AM
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Is this master cylinder a direct Bolt on? I just looked on rockauto and the range from 40-60 bucks. I'm interested in this!
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Old Nov 4, 2014 | 02:02 PM
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From: Prince George, BC
Originally Posted by bryson711
Is this master cylinder a direct Bolt on? I just looked on rockauto and the range from 40-60 bucks. I'm interested in this!
I would think so. Ma Mopar didn't change the bolt spacing on 2 bolt master cylinders to my knowledge.
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Old Nov 4, 2014 | 09:42 PM
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From: Buies Creek, NC
Originally Posted by bryson711
Is this master cylinder a direct Bolt on? I just looked on rockauto and the range from 40-60 bucks. I'm interested in this!
The bolt-holes on the B350 MC are slightly narrower than those on our stock/OEM MC. With that, you'll need to drill out the B350 MCs bolt-holes just enough to fit the mounting studs on our stock/OEM power brake booster.

Nothing to it.

I must confess this upgrade info comes from Glenn @ EGR brakes (the place I got my disc conversion kit from).

On that note, if you want to take things a little further, you can add a 10lb residual-pressure valve in the rear brake fluid line. When you take your foot off the pedal, the brakes release and fluid moves back to the MC. The residual-pressure valve lets the rear brakes release with the drop in pressure, but keeps 10lbs fluid pressure on the rear slave cylinders so as to reduce any "pump-up" of the cylinder(s) that might be needed to take up excess slack . . . . if you will.


My apologies for crapping your thread Mr. mhuppertz.
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