Rear Main Seal Install
10-09-2009, 06:41 PM
#16
Registered User
Thread Starter
I don't think there is any acess for chips to get down in the pan. Its thin stamped steel so there should not be much chipping off. and whats ends up down in there should end up on the magnectic drain plug if chips do get in the pan. I flushed the area out with brakleen before putting in the new seal.
10-10-2009, 09:25 PM
#18
Registered user
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 1,520
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
12-10-2009, 02:31 PM
#19
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: F-ville NC
Posts: 1,368
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok,
I am a little lost here is this the seal
Or this
Becauuse when I got mine from NAPA there is only 1 piece, and it is the ring in this picture
Well I do not think I got mine seated right because it is leaking again. But I need to know if I need the white part listed above....
I am a little lost here is this the seal
Or this
Becauuse when I got mine from NAPA there is only 1 piece, and it is the ring in this picture
Well I do not think I got mine seated right because it is leaking again. But I need to know if I need the white part listed above....
12-10-2009, 06:58 PM
#20
Adminstrator-ess
The white part is just a guide to keep you from damaging the seal as you slide it over the end of the crank. You didn't leave it in there, did you?
You don't have to answer that question if you don't want to...
You don't have to answer that question if you don't want to...
12-10-2009, 10:01 PM
#21
Registered User
I did this on my 3rd gen. Same looking setup. I drilled two small holes with a high speed drill and screwed in two sheet metal screws. I used a framing hammer to hook the screw heads. Pulled one side a little, got the other side and she popped right out. Cleaned everything well and installed the white guide. Placed the seal on and pushed into into place as far as possible with my fingers. Tapped it the rest of the way home with the metal guide ring and she sealed up perfectly. About 7500 miles so far and not a drop.
12-28-2009, 08:58 PM
#22
Registered User
just a heads up for anyone needing to replace their rear main seal. i just bought one from cummins today.
P/N: 3934486 | $69.55
instructions with the kit specify that the seal must be installed DRY.
P/N: 3934486 | $69.55
instructions with the kit specify that the seal must be installed DRY.
03-09-2010, 10:17 PM
#25
Registered User
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Weatherford, TX
Posts: 242
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Could someone explain what keeps a metal chip from falling in the oil pan when you drill the holes to remove the old seal?
I have been bitten by the old mechanics trick of putting grease on the drill bit to hold the chips. It was a very expensing lesson (on a different vehicle).
I have been bitten by the old mechanics trick of putting grease on the drill bit to hold the chips. It was a very expensing lesson (on a different vehicle).
03-14-2010, 05:42 PM
#26
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Lebanon,TN
Posts: 214
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Be sure when drilling be careful not to scuff crank seal surface with drill bit if you do so be ordering a rear main seal with a wear sleeve. don't ask one of the guys at our shop how he knows lol.
04-06-2010, 04:39 PM
#27
Registered User
Guys, I'll be pulling my motor soon to diagnose/fix my knock, and my Cummins FSM is on it's way, but is this don with the oil pan on, or can it be done with it off? I'm sure everything will make a lot more sense once it get it out of the truck....
Thanks!
Thanks!