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Rear Main Seal Install

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Old Oct 9, 2009 | 06:41 PM
  #16  
MoparMarv's Avatar
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From: Oak Lawn, IL
I don't think there is any acess for chips to get down in the pan. Its thin stamped steel so there should not be much chipping off. and whats ends up down in there should end up on the magnectic drain plug if chips do get in the pan. I flushed the area out with brakleen before putting in the new seal.
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Old Oct 10, 2009 | 02:55 AM
  #17  
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From: Santa Rosa, Ca
I just did a rear main seal yesterday and the screws I use are self tappers and when your screwing them in all the metal gets pushed out by the little bit
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Old Oct 10, 2009 | 09:25 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by NO_SPRK
I just did a rear main seal yesterday and the screws I use are self tappers and when your screwing them in all the metal gets pushed out by the little bit
X1. Never used a drill. Just the screw on the end of a slide hammer.
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Old Dec 10, 2009 | 02:31 PM
  #19  
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From: F-ville NC
Ok,

I am a little lost here is this the seal



Or this


Becauuse when I got mine from NAPA there is only 1 piece, and it is the ring in this picture


Well I do not think I got mine seated right because it is leaking again. But I need to know if I need the white part listed above....
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Old Dec 10, 2009 | 06:58 PM
  #20  
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From: New Holland, PA
The white part is just a guide to keep you from damaging the seal as you slide it over the end of the crank. You didn't leave it in there, did you?

You don't have to answer that question if you don't want to...
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Old Dec 10, 2009 | 10:01 PM
  #21  
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From: Wooverton Mountain
I did this on my 3rd gen. Same looking setup. I drilled two small holes with a high speed drill and screwed in two sheet metal screws. I used a framing hammer to hook the screw heads. Pulled one side a little, got the other side and she popped right out. Cleaned everything well and installed the white guide. Placed the seal on and pushed into into place as far as possible with my fingers. Tapped it the rest of the way home with the metal guide ring and she sealed up perfectly. About 7500 miles so far and not a drop.
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Old Dec 28, 2009 | 08:58 PM
  #22  
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From: Orange County, California
just a heads up for anyone needing to replace their rear main seal. i just bought one from cummins today.

P/N: 3934486 | $69.55

instructions with the kit specify that the seal must be installed DRY.
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Old Mar 9, 2010 | 01:17 PM
  #23  
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From: all over see below
Can you test for leaks without bolting up fywheel and tranny?
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Old Mar 9, 2010 | 07:29 PM
  #24  
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the oil filter
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Old Mar 9, 2010 | 10:17 PM
  #25  
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From: Weatherford, TX
Originally Posted by DaveCFF10
Could someone explain what keeps a metal chip from falling in the oil pan when you drill the holes to remove the old seal?

I have been bitten by the old mechanics trick of putting grease on the drill bit to hold the chips. It was a very expensing lesson (on a different vehicle).
We just did a front seal on a 3306 at work(same thing, just a little bigger) and we used the screws, we just went really easy and try not to drill through the rubber.
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Old Mar 14, 2010 | 05:42 PM
  #26  
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From: Lebanon,TN
Be sure when drilling be careful not to scuff crank seal surface with drill bit if you do so be ordering a rear main seal with a wear sleeve. don't ask one of the guys at our shop how he knows lol.
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 04:39 PM
  #27  
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From: Chaffee, NY
Guys, I'll be pulling my motor soon to diagnose/fix my knock, and my Cummins FSM is on it's way, but is this don with the oil pan on, or can it be done with it off? I'm sure everything will make a lot more sense once it get it out of the truck....
Thanks!
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 04:45 PM
  #28  
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From: Orange County, California
it can be done with the pan in place. just pull the flywheel and you'll see the RMS behind it.
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Old May 12, 2010 | 08:03 AM
  #29  
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From: all over see below
where is the rear cover gasket?
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Old May 17, 2010 | 12:42 PM
  #30  
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From: all over see below
do they sell loctite 277 anymore? i cant find it?
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