After searching for a while I found a couple of pics. Man I hate dialup!

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ull+cable+shut
Around post #5

 

Here is what I did.

I took a pull cable for a hood release, the emergency kits for when something breaks. I then cut a hole in the dash to slide it thru. I then drilled a hole in the firewall the was directly back from the big hole on the pump bracket nearest to the shut-down lever. I slipped it thru the dash, firewall, large hole, looped it back on itself, and added a tiny U-bolt deal for slicing wires. I then cut the excess and viola! It worked! I had 2 u-bolt thingies to hold it good and tight. Just make sure you have about 1/4"-3/8" slack in the line.

Jon

 

If you used a locking cable and you locked it in the OUT position, nobody would be able to start your engine even if you left the key in the ignition.
You could use any PTO cable or if you wanted to get fancy you could use an air cylinder.
Jim

 

does one need to remove the electrical shutdown solenoid before installing a manual pull-type?

 

Not necessarily; BUT, the cable shutdown will only be able to KILL the engine and it will still need electric at the solenoid to start, unless the tip of the solenoid has eroded to the point that it will no longer shut-down the engine.

I think I said that right .?.

 

Yes. However, it's best to gut the solenoid so it doesn't lose any more chunks of rubber into the fuel system.

 

does anybody have pics of the solenoid that u gut? so i do the right thing!
ez

 

So... theoretically speaking....

Lets say the Electric solenoid was removed and the pull cable was not the locking type, the engine is off and the truck was left in 3rd gear. If someone hit the back of your truck parked in the street and the engine turned over....it could take off.........

 

Yes.






You remove the plunger and it's associated spring.

 

do you have a picure thats real and not a diagram? Idon't know where it is on the truck . I should have been more specific! sorry
ez

 

The fuel solenoid is the big brass nut in the lower center of the picture. It is removed with a 24mm wrench.




The manual shut off lever is the “T” handle in the lower center of the picture.
If you were to remove the return spring it could be turned into an effective anti theft device, it could be actuated with a door lock motor to serve as a linear actuator



There are a lot of pictures of the VE pump in my gallery.
Jim

 

Thanks Jim!!!
ez

 

Why would anyone leave it in 3rd? Most folks leave 'em in 1st or reverse, those are low enough that the tires will skid before the engine turns.

Not something I'd be super worried about.

 

Tie the cable to the back of the ash tray. Pull out the tray, shut down the engine.

If you want to be fancy, devise a latching device that holds the ash tray in place until you press up/down/sideways on it. Then you have an anti-theft device.

Regards, DBF

 

so after you remove the plunger/spring assembly, do you have to put something in its place so that there is not a "hole" on the pump, or does something screw back into where the 24mm nut was (see jim lane's pictures). i'm really starting to like this idea more and more. i like my truck to be non-computer/battery dependant once it starts