pull cable
The pull cable is connected to the manual shut-off lever on the side of the pump. When you pull it, it moves the lever to the off position. If you spend money on it, get on made for it. I decided to use a throttle cable from O'Reilly's in their HELP! section, it kinked after a couple of times. I need something with a T handle on it. I think someone said to get one for a Mack Model R truck from the 80's.
Sure beats paying $60 for a new shut-off solenoid. Plus the ability to take the keys with you while the truck still runs is a bonus
Jon
Sure beats paying $60 for a new shut-off solenoid. Plus the ability to take the keys with you while the truck still runs is a bonus

Jon
Actually, any older big truck, regardless of make, will have the kill-cable that will work, maybe after a little minor bracket making and hole drilling.
The sweet thing about the mid-70s to late 80s Macks is the big red octagon **** that says "ENGINE STOP".
I'm gonna install a cable we have on 5 ton army trucks, It says right on it "emergency engine stop" . Their really heavy duty. My fuel shutoff still works fine, just figured i'd have it incase!
ez
ez
Trending Topics
You guys use the cable to shut down? With my '96 you would need it to start up if it went bad. There's a strong spring in the solenoid. An electromagnet holds the solenoid up to run and when electricity is shut off the spring shoots it down or out to close off fuel supply. I guess your solenoid works in a different way. Mine is pretty heavy duty, and I don't think the solenoid actually goes bad when people think they do. On my truck the solenoid relay went bad. The holding electromagnet wires still worked, but there is a second stronger electromagnet that pulls the plunger in, against the stiff spring, and then turns off, and that connection in the relay went bad. It's actually on as long as you hold the starter. Some people think or say that the solenoid burns out. I guess that's a possibility if the strong electromagnet is kept on too long some how.
While a had the bad relay, I would have to turn the key to on, open the hood and manually pull up the solenoid plunger, which would be held up by the still working holding electromagnet. People should test their solenoids with direct connections to a battery before buying something else. The dealership gave me this bogus reason why the solenoid went bad, but it wasn’t bad and I knew he didn’t know what hey was talking about because I’m in electrical engineering. This is a little off topic, but I just went into a specialty diesel shop just to talk about some things and I knew more than that guy about what we talked about (non electrical), but I didn’t say much.
Oh, do you guys just completely get rid of the solenoid and make a new device with the cable that moves the lever?
While a had the bad relay, I would have to turn the key to on, open the hood and manually pull up the solenoid plunger, which would be held up by the still working holding electromagnet. People should test their solenoids with direct connections to a battery before buying something else. The dealership gave me this bogus reason why the solenoid went bad, but it wasn’t bad and I knew he didn’t know what hey was talking about because I’m in electrical engineering. This is a little off topic, but I just went into a specialty diesel shop just to talk about some things and I knew more than that guy about what we talked about (non electrical), but I didn’t say much.
Oh, do you guys just completely get rid of the solenoid and make a new device with the cable that moves the lever?
Pic Of Cable Set-up
New to the site. 92 250 4x4 extended cab. Does anyone have a pic of there cable set-up under the hood. All this is new to me and pic really help to understand what you guys are talking about.
Andy







i don't trust electronics