Preserving a pristine roof
#16
Registered User
I've got some rust on the roof just above and beneath the drip rail that's getting worse and worse. At this point, I'm contemplating to just take it to a body shop and let them handle it, especially since the windshield is cracked and needs replacing. I figure it would do me better for them to break the new glass instead of me. Interesting to hear that the new replacement glass isn't at thick as the OEM. Can the OEM glass be found anywhere or could a body shop track one down to use?
I'm just afraid I'd be opening a can of worms if I were to attempt all the repair myself. I feel as though something may come up that is beyond my ability and them I'm scrambling or waiting for weeks to get it to a body shop. I would like to cut an opening in the inner roof skin to create an access for the space between the two skins to apply coatings of a rust treatment and prevention, converter/inhibitor/preventer/encapsulate, whatever, followed by some sound deadener.
Fluid Film and Eastwood both have similar products. Fluid Film is said to be just a rust and corrosion protectant. Eastwood has both treatment and protection products. I'm leaning towards Eastwood as I feel my needs treatment and since these are known from rusting from the inside, the protection coating as a final, of course. I wonder exactly how they compare to one another? Is one a more effective treatment than the other and does the protection of one outlasts the other?
I'm just afraid I'd be opening a can of worms if I were to attempt all the repair myself. I feel as though something may come up that is beyond my ability and them I'm scrambling or waiting for weeks to get it to a body shop. I would like to cut an opening in the inner roof skin to create an access for the space between the two skins to apply coatings of a rust treatment and prevention, converter/inhibitor/preventer/encapsulate, whatever, followed by some sound deadener.
Fluid Film and Eastwood both have similar products. Fluid Film is said to be just a rust and corrosion protectant. Eastwood has both treatment and protection products. I'm leaning towards Eastwood as I feel my needs treatment and since these are known from rusting from the inside, the protection coating as a final, of course. I wonder exactly how they compare to one another? Is one a more effective treatment than the other and does the protection of one outlasts the other?
#17
Registered User
You did not specify which eastwood product, but I'm using eastwood internal frame coating, letting it dry and then fluid film on top of that.
Don't be afraid of the windshield thickness- my 88 has a aftermarket windshield and OEM 1988 gasket, and its the only one of my 3 that doesnt leak. go figure.
Don't be afraid of the windshield thickness- my 88 has a aftermarket windshield and OEM 1988 gasket, and its the only one of my 3 that doesnt leak. go figure.
#18
Registered User
Their Internal Frame Coat is what I was mostly talking about. There are others, of course, and I wasn't sure if any of the treatment and prevention products could be used together but after reading a deeper, they mention that the frame coat doesn't require the removal of loose rust and such before applying as well as why some of them couldn't be used together.
Do you know if the Fluid Film is going to "adhere" to the frame coat?
Do you know if the Fluid Film is going to "adhere" to the frame coat?
#19
Registered User
Fluid film sticks to everything! Its not as paint- its best thought of as a oil.
The internal frame coating is a type of paint
So fluid film on top of frame coating is ok, but not vice versa
The internal frame coating is a type of paint
So fluid film on top of frame coating is ok, but not vice versa
#21
I think you remove cracked seam sealer, epoxy prime, then new urethane seam sealer or 8802. Top w prime and paint.
Windshield is hard to remove. What lubricates do pros to install the glass?
Windshield is hard to remove. What lubricates do pros to install the glass?
#22
Registered User
I've seen glass guys use Ru-Glyde, WD40, or Silicone Spray. A friend of mine does my windshields, he's got about 30 years under his belt, and says the first gen Dodges are some of the tightest to R&R. He also uses Urethane around the rubber to ensure the seal.
#23
Registered User
Roof
I bought a sprayer for bed liner and added a long flexible tube . I have using used motor oil to coat inside of fenders, frame , doors , rockers , tailgate and yes the roof . I have cab lights I remove the lights and blast away , remove the. Isors and blast away . It stinks for a few days , but in my mind it has to help . I can see the oil oozing out for a season then I hit it again .
#24
Registered User
I bought a sprayer for bed liner and added a long flexible tube . I have using used motor oil to coat inside of fenders, frame , doors , rockers , tailgate and yes the roof . I have cab lights I remove the lights and blast away , remove the. Isors and blast away . It stinks for a few days , but in my mind it has to help . I can see the oil oozing out for a season then I hit it again .
But I use Fluid Film for the inner door panels, cab roof ETC, because I like the smell of it better. I spray the fluid film into the roof through the inner sun visor holes as I have no cab lights on most of my 1st gens. I buy the spray can of Fluid Film with the small applicator wand for that job. I try to ore apply it once a year.
#25
Registered User
Thanks much for your replies big red & oliver. 1) Yes the sealer & paint are uncracked in the gutter. 2) Ok I'll do that, just picked up some fluid film after having trouble finding it. Found it at lowes & did my door & hood hinges. I'm also going to pull the step trims, clean & wax good, & apply it in the screw holes & put a layer all along under the trim pieces, as this is a bad problem in my F-350. My F350 is a rusted mess from the PO's employees dumping sodas in the floor & never pulling the carpets to clean & dry it up, so the Floor is rusting badly at the door steps & also on the cab lights across the front. I always said that had to be a rust issue with those dang cab lights & now that I've had the F-350, I've learned what a nighmare it is. I'm hoping to keep my '89 W250 from getting terminal like my '97 F-350 is. Also, I'm going to replace the window seals as they are shrinking around the windshield & I want to keep that from getting rusted out like my 350 as well, Isn't there supposed to be one seal that's better than the others ? I've heard of some new ones shrinking & getting funky in no time & would like to keep that job from needing repeated for a long, long, time. Thanks again guys for the replies.
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Diesel_Dawg (03-29-2020)
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