I had to take all of my trim off my truck when to get it painted; I realized that the cargo light went all the way through both plies of the roof.

So, would it be possible to get a really long straw or some kind of expand-a-foam and spray it into the roof to help stop the dreaded inside-out rust? I figure that it'd be good insulation, at any rate...

 

Okay, I've thought of some more ideas:

1. Sticking a rag soaked in kerosene or WD-40 up in the roof before you seal it up in order to combat the rust.
2. Sticking a few little bags filled with dessicant up there and replacing them every few months.
3. Using some of that rubber-spray for wrench handles up there, shooting it out of a two foot long straw.
4. All of the above.

Anybody think any of that would help fight the rust?

 

I dont think that any of it will be a perminit fix....aside from cuting the roof off, sand blasting,welding were the sand blaster blows thru and then welding the top back on.

there is that navel gelly but i dont now how you would get it up into the blind spots?

 

My rust was "fixed" by the PO, and after I got a hole inside and wanted to fix it, I was going just have the rust cut out and do some patch work but ended up just replacing the roof. All and all it wasn't as bad as I thought it would be, after doing some searching I found a guy that would do the body work and paint it for $200 got a roof off a 93' for $100 and had roughly $100 in paint. So all and all I got it done for $400 and ya can't even tell where it was cut off and welded back on. I really didn't think it could be done that cheap and after the roof was off and I got to looking at how bad the rust was and am glad I went that route. I know the guy who did it was very reasonable but there are always backyard bodyshops around that will cut ya a break and do a good job and then ya don't have to worry about anymoore rust...at least for a while!

As far as your ideas for slowing it down, I think that some undercoating or something like that would help, but my opinion on the spray insulation is it might make it worse by trapping moisture in. The kerosene idea may work but it could also seep down in the cab through the holes for the trim and cause fumes. An idea I had before replacing my roof was to cut a section out of the inner roof so I could access the rust inbetween the two shells and get rid of the rust I could then coat it with something then cover the hole with the headliner. Just and idea.


Chris

 

I just had my roof replaced recently, photos of the rusty roof in my photo section.
Perhaps you could remove the headliner, then have it oil sprayed, maybe wait about a month for the drips to dry up and then put your headliner back in.

 

I have been using this stuff
http://www.lawsonproducts.com/webapp...TECTING+AGENTS
on the frame of my truck, I`d like to get all the surface nasties coated before the upcoming winter. This stuff works awesome, I did a few test spots about 2 months ago to see how it held up without being painted over. About 2-3weeks ago I power washed the underside of the truck so I can finish the job. Well, I was blasting the treated areas of the fram with a zero deg tip in my pressure washer (2200 psi) and the treated areas of the frame were untouched! Could`nt say as much for Ma Mopar`s "factory coating" what was left of the original paint came right off but the treated areas were unscathed. Needless to say i was impressed. The best part about it is it`s a water based product, you could theoretically put it in a spray bottle and go to town on your roof.

 

I'm curious about where the water comes from. Is it typically from the clearance lights or the gutters that run around the top of the cab? We washed the truck last night, and as soon as I pulled out of the driveway this morning, water started dripping from the inner windshield trim. The truck is in excellent shape, and I want to keep it that way.

I already purchased LED clearance lights to replace the old OEM ones, but I'm not sure of what type of sealant to use. My first thought was RTV (silicone), but I'm wondering if I should use something that doesn't actually cure, but reamins flexible.

I'm also considering using a wax-based spray in rustproofing to prevent further rust problems.

 

I don't have the roof lights, so I wouldn't think that's it... Might be a factor, but it isn't the only one.