Piston Pump Install
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From: Rocket City USA - AKA Huntsville, AL
Piston Pump Install
I'm almost finished installing the piston lift pump. That only took about an hour to accomplish. Now I just need to make a bracket to hold the 2 new filter heads for a 10 micro separator and a 2 micron filter. They'll be going right between the master cylinder and the left fender, with the bracket attached to the firewall and the fender.
So, it'll be piston pump to stock filter to separator via banjo bolt to 3/8" pushlock to IP via 3/8" pushlock. I'm still using the stock fuel line into the IP, I just broke it apart at the compression coupler and put a compression to 1/4" NPT adapter and a 1/4" NPT to pushlock fitting where the banjo connection used to be. Out of the block I'm using a banjo to pushlock fitting. I'll be connecting the fuel pressure hookup after the stock filter and before the new filters, that way a drop in pressure tells me the stock filter is clogged and an increase in pressure tells me the add on filters are clogged. I might add another gauge later, after the new filters.
The main reason I'm keeping the stock filter is that I already have 4 or 5 of them laying around so I might as well use them. I know the second 10 micro is redunant, but it should help to reduce the filtering demand of the 2 micro unit a little.
I'll post pictures when it's complete (probably tomorrow night).
So, it'll be piston pump to stock filter to separator via banjo bolt to 3/8" pushlock to IP via 3/8" pushlock. I'm still using the stock fuel line into the IP, I just broke it apart at the compression coupler and put a compression to 1/4" NPT adapter and a 1/4" NPT to pushlock fitting where the banjo connection used to be. Out of the block I'm using a banjo to pushlock fitting. I'll be connecting the fuel pressure hookup after the stock filter and before the new filters, that way a drop in pressure tells me the stock filter is clogged and an increase in pressure tells me the add on filters are clogged. I might add another gauge later, after the new filters.
The main reason I'm keeping the stock filter is that I already have 4 or 5 of them laying around so I might as well use them. I know the second 10 micro is redunant, but it should help to reduce the filtering demand of the 2 micro unit a little.
I'll post pictures when it's complete (probably tomorrow night).
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 531
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From: Rocket City USA - AKA Huntsville, AL
I just finished up the filter install. Here's a few pics ;
Filter and bracket

And from another angle

The plumbing into the IP

My helper is exhausted

After I finally got it all put together (the hard line to the IP was a pain in the ...), tightened all the fittings and hook the electrical back up, she fired up on the first try. I pre-filled the filters with Diesel Kleen and kerosene and primed it about 30 times from the piston pump to get the air out of the system. I guess I got it all because when it fired up it immediately idled nice and smoothly.
The best part is I can't find any fuel leaks! I'm getting about 13PSI to the IP and idle and 15 at no load 1/2 throttle. That should be plenty to handle a few more turns of the full power screw (2 1/2 so far).
I'm going to have to "modify" the throttle bracket to clear some of the plumbing I added, like the air bleed and fuel gauge hookup, but I think it will just take a little bit of cutting on the stock bracket to clear it all.
Now, to finish the interior, bolt down the rollbar and hook up the lights (5 pairs) and auxiliary batteries (one up front, one in the bed).
Filter and bracket

And from another angle

The plumbing into the IP

My helper is exhausted

After I finally got it all put together (the hard line to the IP was a pain in the ...), tightened all the fittings and hook the electrical back up, she fired up on the first try. I pre-filled the filters with Diesel Kleen and kerosene and primed it about 30 times from the piston pump to get the air out of the system. I guess I got it all because when it fired up it immediately idled nice and smoothly.
The best part is I can't find any fuel leaks! I'm getting about 13PSI to the IP and idle and 15 at no load 1/2 throttle. That should be plenty to handle a few more turns of the full power screw (2 1/2 so far).
I'm going to have to "modify" the throttle bracket to clear some of the plumbing I added, like the air bleed and fuel gauge hookup, but I think it will just take a little bit of cutting on the stock bracket to clear it all.
Now, to finish the interior, bolt down the rollbar and hook up the lights (5 pairs) and auxiliary batteries (one up front, one in the bed).
Will you be able to get those filters in and out of position without having to un-bolt the bracket ??
The long copper stem, beside the dipstick, with the petcock on it, what is it ?? an air-bleed maybe ??
Thanks.
The long copper stem, beside the dipstick, with the petcock on it, what is it ?? an air-bleed maybe ??
Thanks.
Hey that looks familiar, except for in a different spot. Should work good, probably better than mine since the filters are completely vertical. But like bearkiller can you get the filters out?
Is your 2 micron longer than your water separator?
Aaron
Is your 2 micron longer than your water separator?
Aaron
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From: Rocket City USA - AKA Huntsville, AL
That is an air bleed. Just a 1/8" NPT petcock screwed into a 1/8" coupler. Works really well when you're priming and easy to reach and no tools required to open/close.
I ordered another pressure gauge from surpluscenter and I'll be putting that right after the lift pump via a tapped banjo bolt. The drop will let me know when it's time to change filters.
No. They're both the same size filters. Napa 3405 12 micron water separator and 3528 2 micron fuel filter. I guess in theory the separator should never catch anything, since the stock filter is 10 micron. I might change it to a 3407, which is a 5 micron separator, when they need replacing.
A gauge between the primary and secondary would also be handy.
That way, you could tell when the primary needed replacement and probably get many more miles out of the secondary.
You can screw fluid-filled gauges right into the gauge-ports without needing "snubbers"; the only draw-back is you can't see them from the cab.
I would have the last one in line mounted in the cab, though.
That way, you could tell when the primary needed replacement and probably get many more miles out of the secondary.
You can screw fluid-filled gauges right into the gauge-ports without needing "snubbers"; the only draw-back is you can't see them from the cab.
I would have the last one in line mounted in the cab, though.
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