j_martin

What do they call the clip er fastener er hardware that fastens the cable to the lever.

Finally got under the drum, and mine's completely missing on one side. PO apparently knew it and adjusted the e-brake so it holds on one side. I didn't know it till I turned sideways on a dirt road trying to use the e-brake.

O-reilly can't seem to find it in their books.

Is there any other way?

j_martin

Here's what I have to work with.

j_martin

Tried to drill a hole for bailing wire. Whatever that arm is made of just laughed at a hss bit in a dremmel tool.

Update.
Shelled out the brakes and took the arm and pivot into the shop. A friend came over with a cobalt drill and we were able to drill the holes. Put it all back together.

Jim Lane

Found this place,

http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/

Rear brakes,
http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/...ssembly=654326

Here is what it looks like,



I am not sure if this is it or not, it does not show a picture.

http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/.../04713293.html

I thought I got those spring clips from my local Auto Value Auto Parts

What I would do is either use your 4" angle grinder and grind the top and bottom side flat and then cage the slug at the end of the cable using a small worm drive hose clamp.

This lever can be easily drilled if you remove it and drill it using a Cobalt drill bit and a drill press on slow speed, use cutting oil for cooling.



This is how I drilled all of my leaf springs, anything over a couple of hundred RPM and you will burn the drill bit up.

The Rigid drill bits at Home Depot are Cobalt.

I think a clamp would be safer than trying to secure it using mechanics wire (I wasn't even thinking bailing wire, that is a FORD thing.)

Jim

j_martin

Well I drilled 2 holes in the tips of the fingers on the lever with a cobalt drill. Put the cable in place, and twisted a piece of 17G electric fence wire, which is mild steel with a zinc plating.

If that doesn't hold, I'll drill a hole above and one below the slug itself, then fashion a clamp from 2 pieces of strap iron and bolt one on either side with small machine screws and nylocks.

I'll bet the ferd wire will work fine, though. Scheduling a full brake job for the end of the summer, so we'll see then. It'll need shoes, cylinders, and redi-sleeves for sure. Probably bearings, too. I'm sure the front brakes will need some parts also.

On the test drive, e-brake locks em up about 1/3 of the way to the floor. Brakes run stone cold if not used, so not dragging at all.

NJTman

J.

When I purchased both of my trucks, neither one had those clips on the rear cables. I searched high and low for them, and never found them.

Turns out, when I went to replace the rear cables, they're pre-attached to the cable ends. Buying new cables will provide you what you need.


BTW, they aren't separable from the cables, so you'll have to change the cables....to fix

j_martin

Thanks, T. From what I've heard about the reliability of the clips, I think I will fashion a permanent bolt on retainer for mine. If I get close to a junker with the drum off, I'll grab the pivot and parking brake arm assembly off it for planning and jigging.

NJTman

I like your way of "re-thinking"


Make sure you post a thread on "how to", so that when my new cables / clips fail, I can follow your "re-thin-innnn"

Gracias Lu-uuucy !

rebal

last set of cables we got from napa had a completely differant clip thats a much better design then that week factory link