I got a feeling that you are gonna be around this forum a long time.

You are hooked.

 

Haha yep, you're totally right there. I'm having a lot of fun with this and once this semester is done I imagine this new hobby will get quite expensive. For now I'm trying to economize things. I figure if I only turn down the pump incrementally until I like it then I can afford to wait on gauges for a while.

 

You might have an aftermarket fuel pin.

 

That I doubt, mostly because if I did then the previous owner was unaware and the mechanic he had turn up the pump didn't charge him for one. I looked at the receipt just now and only a bunch of seals and gaskets and stuff.

 

Sorry to revive this thread, but I just pulled the starwheel out 3 more turns. It is now about halfway up the post in the middle. I'm not sure if I'm using more throttle but it seems to smoke a little less black but for longer (higher RPMs). This would lead me to believe it is not the starwheel adjustment that is the problem. Do you guys think my problem is the full power screw? I don't really mind the smoke, but all I can see is money flying out the exhaust pipe with how expensive fuel is now. Is there some way I can check to see if the fuel screw has been messed with? If I rev it in neutral there is no smoke, it's only when the engine is under load.

 

Did you check the ramp travel after that run?

If you want to see if your AFC is ever goingto help in this scenario, you can do one of two things.

Screw your starwheel all the way out, or take off the boost reference line that goes to the AFC.

Taking off the reference line will not let the cone move at all, so if it still smokes too much for you there then you may have to look into turning the pump down.

Running the wheel all the way up will give you a best case scenario in functional smoke reduction, and of you like it you can then work down from there.


Usually if you can actually see the fuel screw then chances are it's bee messed with. They come with a conical cap over them from the factory.

 

Both the fuel/power screw and the high-idle screw are tamper-capped from the factory.

When I bought my 1989 engine, both caps were still there.

To remove, squish the cap in the jaws of a pair of vise-grips and tear it off.

 

Can anyone tell me the correct size and length for these, so I don't have to remove a screw to take with me to the hardware store ??

Thanks.

 

I don't recall a thread pitch at the moment, BK but I do know that they are 6mm. I'll check as soon as I get back home if no one else has responded.

EDIT: Ahh ha, found my thread from when I replaced mine. M6 - 1.0 x 14mm. I used flat washers under mine which is the reason for the 14mm length.

 

Thank you ever so much.

I intend to get more than enough to do the whole fleet.


I like to use a flat-washer under any nut, bolt-head, or lockwasher, that it is possible to do so.

The flat-washer does more than spread the torque-load and prevent bolt pull-through, it acts as a wear-plate, preventing the turning of the nut from digging into the surface.

Lock-washers will actually shave up a big burr on whatever surface they are tightened against --- good for their job of locking, but not so good for the next time around.

Again, thank you for the measurements.