Non-intercooled 5speed...electrical issues
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Non-intercooled 5speed...electrical issues
Hello Everyone.
This is my first post. We got a "new" 91 Ram 350 5 speed Cummins, it was bought pretty much sight unseen, and delivered. I deleted the FSS yesterday and replaced the battery, and it instantly cranked and started.(shout out to the forum, I got all the info to get it running from here). When the truck started I saw a little puff of smoke in the area of the fusible links. I killed the truck mechanically. It wouldnt start back. I replaced a bad fusible link(jumpered it temporarily, and I can get the truck started). Here is where I get lost in the all the forum( I tried searching stickys,etc.)
This is what I have determined so far:
NO speedo
FUEL gage not working
VOLT meter reading low(even with charged battery)
NOT Charging
NO AC(could be unrelated)
NO Headlights( brights work, they are the LED converted lights)
Turn signals work but no running lights
So I have determined from stickys that the NON-intercooled Manny trucks have different electrical and I am kinda lost where to start( or rather where to continue).
Questions I have: Where would the PCM be? I see a voltage regulator, and it looks new.
Does any one have a wiring diagram for the fusible link pig tail, so I know what does what?( I checked them with DMM)
This truck is for my Dad's property in NC, and for him to haul stuff to the woods, so he cant get stranded... Any help is appreciated.
This is my first post. We got a "new" 91 Ram 350 5 speed Cummins, it was bought pretty much sight unseen, and delivered. I deleted the FSS yesterday and replaced the battery, and it instantly cranked and started.(shout out to the forum, I got all the info to get it running from here). When the truck started I saw a little puff of smoke in the area of the fusible links. I killed the truck mechanically. It wouldnt start back. I replaced a bad fusible link(jumpered it temporarily, and I can get the truck started). Here is where I get lost in the all the forum( I tried searching stickys,etc.)
This is what I have determined so far:
NO speedo
FUEL gage not working
VOLT meter reading low(even with charged battery)
NOT Charging
NO AC(could be unrelated)
NO Headlights( brights work, they are the LED converted lights)
Turn signals work but no running lights
So I have determined from stickys that the NON-intercooled Manny trucks have different electrical and I am kinda lost where to start( or rather where to continue).
Questions I have: Where would the PCM be? I see a voltage regulator, and it looks new.
Does any one have a wiring diagram for the fusible link pig tail, so I know what does what?( I checked them with DMM)
This truck is for my Dad's property in NC, and for him to haul stuff to the woods, so he cant get stranded... Any help is appreciated.
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From: vermont
You have a '91.0.
That would have no PCM.
Just because the voltage regulator looks new does not mean it is good. The aftermarket versions of those are pretty bad.
Buy a few from the parts store, or order a Mopar one.
That would have no PCM.
Just because the voltage regulator looks new does not mean it is good. The aftermarket versions of those are pretty bad.
Buy a few from the parts store, or order a Mopar one.
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Joined: Dec 2008
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From: vermont
Nope, but that seemed like the biggest issue you have for a round the yard style truck.
I figured that would save you a lot of time and head ache.
The rest may just be just working through the wiring carefully.
The LED head lights, if not done right, are known to cause other running / turn signal weirdness.
The rest could be bad, missing, loose connections or grounds.
I figured that would save you a lot of time and head ache.
The rest may just be just working through the wiring carefully.
The LED head lights, if not done right, are known to cause other running / turn signal weirdness.
The rest could be bad, missing, loose connections or grounds.
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Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 7,265
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From: Prince George, BC
A non-IC 91 does that have an electric speedo? If it does then could be a bad VSS, or parts related to that. Grounds should be pulled and all surfaces sanded to bare metal them a dab of dielectric grease and reinstall. Check the fuse panel for blown fuses that might fix a couple of your issues.
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Joined: Nov 2015
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From: NE Wa
They are a circuit breaker, they come in different amperage's kinda like a fuse, I would definitely trace them out to see what they are running. Are they being fed from the battery or from a keyed source?
Dang, Edwin you beat me to it
Dang, Edwin you beat me to it
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The wire is cut going to that terminal, and I pulled the plastic standoff, and behold: a nut. Lol. Why?!?
I’m still trying to figure out headlights and running lights. I disconnected the headlights and I still don’t get running lights. Switch? Or which fusible link?!?
I’m still trying to figure out headlights and running lights. I disconnected the headlights and I still don’t get running lights. Switch? Or which fusible link?!?
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Joined: Jul 2009
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From: Phoenix AZ
I would suggest that you just do a fuse replacement on the fusible links and solve that problem forever. Here is what is in the sticky:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...9/#post1407509
Search NJTman posts, I believe that he has a write-up that is another way of doing it...Mark
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...9/#post1407509
Search NJTman posts, I believe that he has a write-up that is another way of doing it...Mark
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I may end up doing that. I ordered a head light switch and voltage regulator from Rockauto(can you smell what the rock is cookin?). The multifunction headlight switch looked pretty toasted. Not to mention former owner apparently ran the running lights on that circuit breaker that had the plastic standoff and cut wire.
Another question: when the ignition is off the fuel level reads a 1/4 a tank. I’m pretty sure the tank is full. With ignition turned on the gauge immediately pegs empty. Has anyone ever installed a new fuel sender that was wired wrong? If so, can I swap some pins on the cluster to remedy that vs tank drop?
Another question: when the ignition is off the fuel level reads a 1/4 a tank. I’m pretty sure the tank is full. With ignition turned on the gauge immediately pegs empty. Has anyone ever installed a new fuel sender that was wired wrong? If so, can I swap some pins on the cluster to remedy that vs tank drop?
Which color fusible link goes to the switch?