No Reverse after rebuild
#16
Registered User
The difference between your red and yellow dot heights before and after is a missing small wire ring.
The only way to get it back in there is with a hydraulic press, as that spring is massive.
AND, as stated above, you'll need a dummy shaft to keep the splines aligned inside the 2 hubs. I use a cut up intermediate shaft.
The heights of those 2 gears has to be even, as seen in your first picture.
This should bring your OD piston selective spacer measurment back to original, as I've never replaced one of those.
This is all tied in to your OD direct clutch pack, which is mechanically applied by that massive spring. Forward gears drive through this clutch and the OD sprag. Reverse only drives through the clutch and the sprag will freewheel. I bet you have some clutches burned up now(or missing)
If you downoad a transtar catalog, the snap ring you're missing is #866 (free downoad, they just want your email and fake company name) pg 111, diagram 22
-Mike
The only way to get it back in there is with a hydraulic press, as that spring is massive.
AND, as stated above, you'll need a dummy shaft to keep the splines aligned inside the 2 hubs. I use a cut up intermediate shaft.
The heights of those 2 gears has to be even, as seen in your first picture.
This should bring your OD piston selective spacer measurment back to original, as I've never replaced one of those.
This is all tied in to your OD direct clutch pack, which is mechanically applied by that massive spring. Forward gears drive through this clutch and the OD sprag. Reverse only drives through the clutch and the sprag will freewheel. I bet you have some clutches burned up now(or missing)
If you downoad a transtar catalog, the snap ring you're missing is #866 (free downoad, they just want your email and fake company name) pg 111, diagram 22
-Mike
#17
Registered User
The difference between your red and yellow dot heights before and after is a missing small wire ring.
The only way to get it back in there is with a hydraulic press, as that spring is massive.
AND, as stated above, you'll need a dummy shaft to keep the splines aligned inside the 2 hubs. I use a cut up intermediate shaft.
The heights of those 2 gears has to be even, as seen in your first picture.
This should bring your OD piston selective spacer measurment back to original, as I've never replaced one of those.
This is all tied in to your OD direct clutch pack, which is mechanically applied by that massive spring. Forward gears drive through this clutch and the OD sprag. Reverse only drives through the clutch and the sprag will freewheel. I bet you have some clutches burned up now(or missing)
If you downoad a transtar catalog, the snap ring you're missing is #866 (free downoad, they just want your email and fake company name) pg 111, diagram 22
-Mike
The only way to get it back in there is with a hydraulic press, as that spring is massive.
AND, as stated above, you'll need a dummy shaft to keep the splines aligned inside the 2 hubs. I use a cut up intermediate shaft.
The heights of those 2 gears has to be even, as seen in your first picture.
This should bring your OD piston selective spacer measurment back to original, as I've never replaced one of those.
This is all tied in to your OD direct clutch pack, which is mechanically applied by that massive spring. Forward gears drive through this clutch and the OD sprag. Reverse only drives through the clutch and the sprag will freewheel. I bet you have some clutches burned up now(or missing)
If you downoad a transtar catalog, the snap ring you're missing is #866 (free downoad, they just want your email and fake company name) pg 111, diagram 22
-Mike
#18
Registered User
Thread Starter
The difference between your red and yellow dot heights before and after is a missing small wire ring.
The heights of those 2 gears has to be even, as seen in your first picture.
This should bring your OD piston selective spacer measurment back to original, as I've never replaced one of those.
This is all tied in to your OD direct clutch pack, which is mechanically applied by that massive spring. Forward gears drive through this clutch and the OD sprag. Reverse only drives through the clutch and the sprag will freewheel. I bet you have some clutches burned up now(or missing)
If you downoad a transtar catalog, the snap ring you're missing is #866
-Mike
The heights of those 2 gears has to be even, as seen in your first picture.
This should bring your OD piston selective spacer measurment back to original, as I've never replaced one of those.
This is all tied in to your OD direct clutch pack, which is mechanically applied by that massive spring. Forward gears drive through this clutch and the OD sprag. Reverse only drives through the clutch and the sprag will freewheel. I bet you have some clutches burned up now(or missing)
If you downoad a transtar catalog, the snap ring you're missing is #866
-Mike
#19
Registered User
Thread Starter
Fun fact of discovery today. The small snap ring on the sun gear assembly does NOT sit against the direct hub by design. Without the spring in, the sun gear will drop over 1/4" before hitting the snap ring seat. This leads me to conclude the direct hub is sitting high and not the sun gear low. Gonna add an extra clutch and see if that holds the direct hub down the amount I need.
#20
Registered User
Yep, it's in there.
That leads to your next post, the direct clutch pack is much thinner than it should be.
Is it burned up already, or missing plates/friction discs?
There needs to be the same amount of discs and steels that came out of there before the rebuild.
The factory will put more or less plates/discs in there (and all the clutch packs) based on the engine torque. A V6 might have 5, ours might have 9+
Some performance mods will put in thinner steels, friction plates to add 1 or 2 extra in there. More friction surface area, as all the engine torque is driven through there.
Side note: all my side work rebuilds get a Trans-Go shift improver kit. It definitely helps in drivability and reliability.
You woud use the SK TFOD-Diesel kit, but the SK TFOD-Jr kit (for gassers) has a different way to measure for the OD piston spacer. Look on the transgo website>sk tfod-jr>documents for the install instructions, bottom of pg. 5
You can use this to double check your factory method of measuring the assembled case depth and selective shim choice....post #4, Figure 80 above.
Also, post #3, figure 17, that spacer is hopefully still on the intermediate shaft. It's work to get it off, and it's one thing i've never measured, removed or changed out.
Lmk
That leads to your next post, the direct clutch pack is much thinner than it should be.
Is it burned up already, or missing plates/friction discs?
There needs to be the same amount of discs and steels that came out of there before the rebuild.
The factory will put more or less plates/discs in there (and all the clutch packs) based on the engine torque. A V6 might have 5, ours might have 9+
Some performance mods will put in thinner steels, friction plates to add 1 or 2 extra in there. More friction surface area, as all the engine torque is driven through there.
Side note: all my side work rebuilds get a Trans-Go shift improver kit. It definitely helps in drivability and reliability.
You woud use the SK TFOD-Diesel kit, but the SK TFOD-Jr kit (for gassers) has a different way to measure for the OD piston spacer. Look on the transgo website>sk tfod-jr>documents for the install instructions, bottom of pg. 5
You can use this to double check your factory method of measuring the assembled case depth and selective shim choice....post #4, Figure 80 above.
Also, post #3, figure 17, that spacer is hopefully still on the intermediate shaft. It's work to get it off, and it's one thing i've never measured, removed or changed out.
Lmk
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ScubaSteveCA (05-25-2023)
#21
Registered User
Thread Starter
I don't think anything would be damaged as I only ran the truck at idle and for a few minutes in the driveway before realizing something was wrong.
So here's the problem: I've got 1st design pressure plates and 2nd design clutch steels. The math doesn't math. Going through my ATSG book, the total direct clutch stack is 1.209 and 1.210 for 1st and second design. My current configuration was 1.104" with 8/7, going to a 9/8 will get me 1.222". I've either got to order some .070 steels and put it in 8/7 configuration, or get/grind the pressure plate to an acceptable thickness to run 9/8 or 10/9 with my .055 steels. Mystery solved at least. Appreciate the help and input.
So here's the problem: I've got 1st design pressure plates and 2nd design clutch steels. The math doesn't math. Going through my ATSG book, the total direct clutch stack is 1.209 and 1.210 for 1st and second design. My current configuration was 1.104" with 8/7, going to a 9/8 will get me 1.222". I've either got to order some .070 steels and put it in 8/7 configuration, or get/grind the pressure plate to an acceptable thickness to run 9/8 or 10/9 with my .055 steels. Mystery solved at least. Appreciate the help and input.
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Sheep Herder (05-25-2023)
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