New truck
#76
Registered User
The Germans put diesel's on some of their bombers
The following users liked this post:
mknittle (12-26-2017)
#77
Registered User
Probably because diesel fuel was easier to make with the Coal to Liquid process they had to use. They had no petroleum but lots of coal so they used the Fischer-Tropsch process to make diesel. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fische...ropsch_process
They have been trying to make a diesel piston airplane engine for a long time but can't get it past the FAA. Turbine engined aircraft like it just fine.
They have been trying to make a diesel piston airplane engine for a long time but can't get it past the FAA. Turbine engined aircraft like it just fine.
The following users liked this post:
mknittle (12-26-2017)
#79
Registered User
Thread Starter
I’ll just stay with my old 1st gen fuel tank is in brake line run to the back new fuel lines. Prime the fuel install radiator weld intercooler together and I should be able to fire it up. Getting allot closer it the last month last big expense is tires and wheels
#80
Registered User
#81
Registered User
Thread Starter
I’m ready to do the steering on my truck the steering column I’m using was locked when it was took out but don’t know if it was it the center how do I center the clock spring before I brake it
#82
Registered User
I would remove the steering wheel, and then remove the clock spring cartridge. FWIW, my trucks (91.5, no controls on the steering wheel) have a cartridge, with warnings about the clock spring on them, etc., but actually have a slip ring inside! With the cartridge out, you can carefully pop off its cover, and then center the assembly by looking at the "tape" inside. I don't know the number of turns from fully wound to centered, and I would be afraid that the mass of the steering wheel would make it too easy to accidentally tear things, but others might have better information.
#83
Registered User
Thread Starter
I would remove the steering wheel, and then remove the clock spring cartridge. FWIW, my trucks (91.5, no controls on the steering wheel) have a cartridge, with warnings about the clock spring on them, etc., but actually have a slip ring inside! With the cartridge out, you can carefully pop off its cover, and then center the assembly by looking at the "tape" inside. I don't know the number of turns from fully wound to centered, and I would be afraid that the mass of the steering wheel would make it too easy to accidentally tear things, but others might have better information.
Thanks I’ve never had to deal with a clock springBefore just don’t want to break it
The following 3 users liked this post by cabtruck:
#85
Registered User
I am interested in what you worked out for rubber mounts.
Did you install the aluminum spacer as a body lift?
Did you install the aluminum spacer as a body lift?
#86
Registered User
Thread Starter
The following 2 users liked this post by cabtruck:
Diesel_Dawg (01-06-2018),
mknittle (01-08-2018)
#87
Registered User
Cool I would be reading along as I don't like the poly bushing for cab mounts on the 12v trucks.
Thanks
Thanks
#88
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Western Alberta, CAD
Posts: 205
Likes: 0
Received 52 Likes
on
31 Posts
Originally Posted by cabtruck
Yes I put a body lift to clear the 6 speed trans I’ll get the part number and write out everything I have to do
Please keep us posted ... pictures are always good
SD
The following users liked this post:
mknittle (01-08-2018)
#89
Registered User
Thread Starter
Looked at some drop hangers and shackle flip kits didn’t want to drill any more holes in the frame and why buy whim I can build my own it’s going to give 4” lift then I can go from a 6” block to a2” hope it helps with axle wrap