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Old 12-24-2017, 04:42 PM
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The Germans put diesel's on some of their bombers

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Old 12-24-2017, 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Blue Goose
The Germans put diesel's on some of their bombers

Probably because diesel fuel was easier to make with the Coal to Liquid process they had to use. They had no petroleum but lots of coal so they used the Fischer-Tropsch process to make diesel. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fische...ropsch_process

They have been trying to make a diesel piston airplane engine for a long time but can't get it past the FAA. Turbine engined aircraft like it just fine.
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Old 12-26-2017, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by oliver foster
That or a Mummins ...


Jeep + Cummins = Jemmins ?
Old 12-26-2017, 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by 1STGENFARMBOY
Jeep + Cummins = Jemmins ?
I’ll just stay with my old 1st gen fuel tank is in brake line run to the back new fuel lines. Prime the fuel install radiator weld intercooler together and I should be able to fire it up. Getting allot closer it the last month last big expense is tires and wheels
Old 12-26-2017, 08:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Blue Goose
The Germans put diesel's on some of their bombers

They also had single cylinder diesel motorcycles.
Old 01-01-2018, 03:36 PM
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I’m ready to do the steering on my truck the steering column I’m using was locked when it was took out but don’t know if it was it the center how do I center the clock spring before I brake it
Old 01-02-2018, 01:58 PM
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I would remove the steering wheel, and then remove the clock spring cartridge. FWIW, my trucks (91.5, no controls on the steering wheel) have a cartridge, with warnings about the clock spring on them, etc., but actually have a slip ring inside! With the cartridge out, you can carefully pop off its cover, and then center the assembly by looking at the "tape" inside. I don't know the number of turns from fully wound to centered, and I would be afraid that the mass of the steering wheel would make it too easy to accidentally tear things, but others might have better information.
Old 01-02-2018, 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Alec
I would remove the steering wheel, and then remove the clock spring cartridge. FWIW, my trucks (91.5, no controls on the steering wheel) have a cartridge, with warnings about the clock spring on them, etc., but actually have a slip ring inside! With the cartridge out, you can carefully pop off its cover, and then center the assembly by looking at the "tape" inside. I don't know the number of turns from fully wound to centered, and I would be afraid that the mass of the steering wheel would make it too easy to accidentally tear things, but others might have better information.
Thanks I’ve never had to deal with a clock springBefore just don’t want to break it
Old 01-06-2018, 07:46 PM
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I’ve got the rubber body mounts figured out if anyone is interested
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Old 01-06-2018, 07:59 PM
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I am interested in what you worked out for rubber mounts.

Did you install the aluminum spacer as a body lift?
Old 01-06-2018, 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by oliver foster
I am interested in what you worked out for rubber mounts.

Did you install the aluminum spacer as a body lift?
Yes I put a body lift to clear the 6 speed trans I’ll get the part number and write out everything I have to do
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Old 01-06-2018, 08:21 PM
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Cool I would be reading along as I don't like the poly bushing for cab mounts on the 12v trucks.
Thanks
Old 01-06-2018, 11:54 PM
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Originally Posted by cabtruck
Yes I put a body lift to clear the 6 speed trans I’ll get the part number and write out everything I have to do
Yes I am also interested in these mounts ... I gotta replace both cab corners on my piece cone spring time and I just know the mounts are gonna be trashed as well

Please keep us posted ... pictures are always good

SD
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Old 01-20-2018, 09:51 PM
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Looked at some drop hangers and shackle flip kits didn’t want to drill any more holes in the frame and why buy whim I can build my own it’s going to give 4” lift then I can go from a 6” block to a2” hope it helps with axle wrap
Old 01-20-2018, 09:56 PM
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