new drag link on, steering wheel more crooked
#1
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new drag link on, steering wheel more crooked
I got the drag link on figuring that was causing my 1 instance of wobble last week, I made sure the wheels were straight, torqued the nut to 40lbs, and my wheel sits between 2 and 3 oclock. what can I do to correct this? I also gave the fuel screw another 1.25 turns, and holy hell, it smokes a LOT now. I need to find a prius.
#2
You have a drop pitman to go along with those Skyjacker srings? If not, that would explain your steering wheel clocking and any steering anomalies you may be experiencing. Mine had a noticeable bump steer until I installed a drop pitman. The steering wheel position is totally arbitrary anyway, based on the coupler spline. I have mine clocked about 30 degrees to the right so it doesn't block any of the gauges mounted down on the dash from direct line of sight going straight down the road.
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i dont think theres much you can do other than messing with the tie-rod ends + at the same time making sure you dont mess up your "toe"
i would just buy an adjustable drag link, i got one on mine and it works pretty good, but eventually i wanna get x-over steering. i'll look through my old recieps to give you a part# belive its made by Superlift
i would just buy an adjustable drag link, i got one on mine and it works pretty good, but eventually i wanna get x-over steering. i'll look through my old recieps to give you a part# belive its made by Superlift
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You have a drop pitman to go along with those Skyjacker srings? If not, that would explain your steering wheel clocking and any steering anomalies you may be experiencing. Mine had a noticeable bump steer until I installed a drop pitman. The steering wheel position is totally arbitrary anyway, based on the coupler spline. I have mine clocked about 30 degrees to the right so it doesn't block any of the gauges mounted down on the dash from direct line of sight going straight down the road.
i dont think theres much you can do other than messing with the tie-rod ends + at the same time making sure you dont mess up your "toe"
i would just buy an adjustable drag link, i got one on mine and it works pretty good, but eventually i wanna get x-over steering. i'll look through my old recieps to give you a part# belive its made by Superlift
i would just buy an adjustable drag link, i got one on mine and it works pretty good, but eventually i wanna get x-over steering. i'll look through my old recieps to give you a part# belive its made by Superlift
while x-over would be player i always thought it didn't work with front sway's. I don't understand your turning radius problem with stock steering, honestly my truck is amazingly tight turning, like I dont have to avoid ANY parking lots even with the flatbed.
#6
Bump steer is when you go over a bump and it gets transmitted through the steering all the way to your hands and you can feel the steering wheel moves a bit, even though you are going straight down the road. It can be anywhere from mild to severe, depending on how far out of whack things are. The bump steer on my 3rd gen caused by some upgraded steering components and a leveling lift was bad enough to almost jerk the wheel out of your hand. It's pretty minor with a 2" inch lift on a 1st Gen, but if you pay attention, you'll see it's there. The exaggerated draglink angle is also probably why it wore out on you faster that it might have otherwise. That draglink has to be in or near the correct angle/geometry to the pitman and the steering knuckle for everything to work correctly. Using an adjustable draglink to address this issue is just a band-aid solution. Drop pitman or crossover steering are the only two ways to get it set up properly.
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Bump steer is when you go over a bump and it gets transmitted through the steering all the way to your hands and you can feel the steering wheel moves a bit, even though you are going straight down the road. It can be anywhere from mild to severe, depending on how far out of whack things are. The bump steer on my 3rd gen caused by some upgraded steering components and a leveling lift was bad enough to almost jerk the wheel out of your hand. It's pretty minor with a 2" inch lift on a 1st Gen, but if you pay attention, you'll see it's there. The exaggerated draglink angle is also probably why it wore out on you faster that it might have otherwise. That draglink has to be in or near the correct angle/geometry to the pitman and the steering knuckle for everything to work correctly. Using an adjustable draglink to address this issue is just a band-aid solution. Drop pitman or crossover steering are the only two ways to get it set up properly.
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#8
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I think you can pull your steering wheel off and rotate it a couple of splines and reinstall. Right now it's not off far enough to mess up your steering wheel clock wires when moving it a couple of splines.
#9
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my wheel also got crooked after my drag link install. I don't have any lift so the above solultions don't concern me. I re-clocked the wheel and all is fine.
#10
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My truck steering is tight, at 70 MPH I can hold it within the lines while steering with my 2 fingers from my left hand as a buffer I keep my knee against the bottom incase of a blowout.
I think the reason is I have good tires tight suspension and a good alignment.
Before I put on my Michelins the guy at the tire shop had me try some Firestones, he said they ride better than Michelins, I had them on for 1 day and took them back, they made my truck drive squirrelly all over the lane, I had to drive it to stay in my own lane.
He said they had to break in for 500 miles, I would have wrecked into someone in 500 miles.
I put the Michelins on and they drove straight as an arrow.
So defiantly tires between different brands drive differently.
Also every vehicle seems to have its own characteristics on how it tracks, I get into my sons 2005 1500 Hemi and it steers all over the street it seems everyone gets used to their own vehicle no matter how bad they drive.
I know it wasn’t in my Defensive Driving Class but I sometimes drive with the Cruise Control on and steer with 2 fingers.
Jim
I think the reason is I have good tires tight suspension and a good alignment.
Before I put on my Michelins the guy at the tire shop had me try some Firestones, he said they ride better than Michelins, I had them on for 1 day and took them back, they made my truck drive squirrelly all over the lane, I had to drive it to stay in my own lane.
He said they had to break in for 500 miles, I would have wrecked into someone in 500 miles.
I put the Michelins on and they drove straight as an arrow.
So defiantly tires between different brands drive differently.
Also every vehicle seems to have its own characteristics on how it tracks, I get into my sons 2005 1500 Hemi and it steers all over the street it seems everyone gets used to their own vehicle no matter how bad they drive.
I know it wasn’t in my Defensive Driving Class but I sometimes drive with the Cruise Control on and steer with 2 fingers.
Jim
#11
I've owned every major variant of the full-sized Dodge PU chassis built over the past twenty years. They all behave a little differently and have their unique quirks. Tires are a wildcard. Chosen for the proper application and inflated, you're not going to have many problems. There are always some crappy ones to be had. BUT (big but) well-maintained (tight joints, good shocks, etc.) and with proper alignment, they will all drive just like you say above, Jim - 2 fingers, straight down the road.
#12
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I have always researched into the tires I put on my trucks and buy the best.
If I am going to spend $1,500.00 for and investment I want it to be the correct one.
I don't know if a lot of people are uneducated about tires but I have seen trucks with 2 completely different styles and tread patterns between the front and the rears not to mention Speed Rating, Temp Coefficient Rating, Tread Compounds and Ply Rating and cannot figure out why the truck wobbles, squirms, poor skid characteristics or rides terrible.
Then they say it rides like a Dodge truck.
It can ride like a truck but it rides like a nice truck.
Other than the suspension issues with these 1st Gens my truck for it size is agile and responsive as my lowered 1970 Mustang with Koni suspension.
If I am going to spend $1,500.00 for and investment I want it to be the correct one.
I don't know if a lot of people are uneducated about tires but I have seen trucks with 2 completely different styles and tread patterns between the front and the rears not to mention Speed Rating, Temp Coefficient Rating, Tread Compounds and Ply Rating and cannot figure out why the truck wobbles, squirms, poor skid characteristics or rides terrible.
Then they say it rides like a Dodge truck.
It can ride like a truck but it rides like a nice truck.
Other than the suspension issues with these 1st Gens my truck for it size is agile and responsive as my lowered 1970 Mustang with Koni suspension.
#13
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Michelins on a 2001 flatbed the front tires went 93,000 miles the rears went 156,000 miles. Replaced with the best Coopers and pulled them off with 1500 miles and went back with Michelins. No comparision. The truck drove all over with the Coopers and arrow straight with the Michelins.
#14
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I too have Michelins (LTX-MS) and they ride nice and straight. I had had the truck for about 20,000 miles and i see no difference in the tread (expect for the back...oops) depth since i got the truck.
#15
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my truck tracks and drives really nice, its just the steering wheel thing bugging me. Michelin needs to make a more aggresive tire before I can by them. I just put over 800 in rubber on the rear, made me want srw. My dad's 01 24v 4by is all over the road with cooper st's, but I cant blame the tire completly, his front end sucks.